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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Oct 22nd, 2008, 01:20 | #11 |
New Member
Last Online: Jun 25th, 2010 02:25
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Charleston
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Brakes back on
I cant believe how much pressure it took to get the left drum off. The right popped right off, but the left took two days and an incredible amount of pressure to brake it free. I used an inexpensive puller and wasn't sure if it was going to work but finally wham!
New calipers on the front and wheel cylinders on the rear should have her stopping good but haven't been able to test it on the street. The peddle needs a little pumping which makes me think the brakes need more bleeding. I've got to replace the brake light switch so I might wait till then. Ive got two questions that someone might be able to help. 1. My instrument lights and tail lights lights aren't working all of sudden are they on the same fuse circuit? 2. Does anyone know which two wires from the ignition switch I use for a starter button, because the car has a tendincy to bend keys? Thanks |
Oct 22nd, 2008, 20:45 | #12 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Dec 3rd, 2021 08:39
Join Date: Jan 1970
Location: Sutton, near Ely
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I thought pumping the pedal was a sign of a bad master cylinder, not air in the lines?
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Oct 24th, 2008, 22:20 | #13 |
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Last Online: Today 17:04
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Connecticut, USA
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Interpreting brake pedal action
Andrew;
Pumping the pedal and then getting a hard pedal is often a sign of taking up the free movement in the rear shoes, which should be adjusted out...confirm this by pulling up E-Brake a few notches which essentially does the same thing (moves the shoes closer before hydraulic pressure moves them the rest of the way to contact). If pedal doesn't need to be pumped quite so many times after this, a rear shoe adjustment is called for (and as long as the handbrake is not dragging, you may drive like this until the adjustment is made). Stuck adjusters are common...they are subject to galvanic corrosion due to a mix of steel and alu components...overtorque the 1/4" adjustment peg and you WILL break it off before they will loosen up...removal, breaking open on a bench, cleaning and rebuilding with graphite grease is my recommended solution. See also: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=59401 and: http://sw-em.com/service%20notes.htm#Braking%20System A firm pedal which slowly sinks to the floor suggests a bypassing master cylinder OR a leak...check for puddles! A soft pedal means you are compressing air and a bleeding is called for. Cheers from New England! |
Oct 25th, 2008, 00:11 | #14 |
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Last Online: Jun 25th, 2010 02:25
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Charleston
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Thanks
I bought a new master cylinder today because the old one was in horrible condition. There was a layer of orange sludge in the bottom of the reservoir that I couldn't get out, and I did not want to risk my life on it. The adjusters are working fine on both wheels. I'll put in the new master. Bleed the brakes and if the peddle is pumping I'll tighten them up. Currently the brake peddle goes soft and needs one or two pumps before the brakes catch again. This happens in a matter of minutes. I'm hoping all the new parts will spell the end of brake problems for a while. |
Oct 25th, 2008, 11:27 | #15 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Dec 3rd, 2021 08:39
Join Date: Jan 1970
Location: Sutton, near Ely
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Good luck with it. Interpreting brake pedal feel is a bit of an art that I am still learning. One thing I think that does help with bleeding when fitting new parts is to tap them in order to dislodge the air bubbles that can otherwise just cling onto internal surfaces.
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Mar 13th, 2009, 18:38 | #16 |
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Last Online: Mar 30th, 2009 13:09
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: margate
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recalipers
hi mate can you tell where you got them from and how much ta chris
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Mar 13th, 2009, 20:32 | #17 | |
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Last Online: Apr 18th, 2009 17:52
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: itapoa s.c.
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122 w/ various brakes(rear) pretty simple getting the drums
Quote:
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Mar 13th, 2009, 23:43 | #18 |
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Last Online: Today 15:13
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Location: Chatham
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Mar 14th, 2009, 20:07 | #19 |
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Last Online: Jun 25th, 2010 02:25
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Charleston
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Put about 5000 miles on the car in the past few months. Built my own pressure bleeder out of a garden sprayer and my old master cylinder cap. The brakes are working great. The peddle is a little soft on cold mornings but otherwise its real firm and responsive. No major problems so far. Its a little hard to get into first gear unless the car is completely stopped. It keeps me honest at the stop signs. Getting ready to change all the fluids again and hopefully have another 5k of crusing.
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Mar 14th, 2009, 21:32 | #20 |
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Last Online: Today 17:04
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Connecticut, USA
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Viperv;
Trouble shifting into first unless completely stopped suggests inadequite disengagement of clutch...check fluid level/action at slave, adjust as necessary... Cheers from Connecticut! |
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