122 Diagnosis

[viperv]

I cant believe how much pressure it took to get the left drum off. The right popped right off, but the left took two days and an incredible amount of pressure to brake it free. I used an inexpensive puller and wasn't sure if it was going to work but finally wham!

New calipers on the front and wheel cylinders on the rear should have her stopping good but haven't been able to test it on the street. The peddle needs a little pumping which makes me think the brakes need more bleeding. I've got to replace the brake light switch so I might wait till then. Ive got two questions that someone might be able to help.

1. My instrument lights and tail lights lights aren't working all of sudden are they on the same fuse circuit?

2. Does anyone know which two wires from the ignition switch I use for a starter button, because the car has a tendincy to bend keys?

Thanks

[Andrew (UK)]

I thought pumping the pedal was a sign of a bad master cylinder, not air in the lines?

[Ron Kwas]

Andrew;

Pumping the pedal and then getting a hard pedal is often a sign of taking up the free movement in the rear shoes, which should be adjusted out...confirm this by pulling up E-Brake a few notches which essentially does the same thing (moves the shoes closer before hydraulic pressure moves them the rest of the way to contact). If pedal doesn't need to be pumped quite so many times after this, a rear shoe adjustment is called for (and as long as the handbrake is not dragging, you may drive like this until the adjustment is made).

Stuck adjusters are common...they are subject to galvanic corrosion due to a mix of steel and alu components...overtorque the 1/4" adjustment peg and you WILL break it off before they will loosen up...removal, breaking open on a bench, cleaning and rebuilding with graphite grease is my recommended solution. See also: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=59401
and: http://sw-em.com/service%20notes.htm#Braking%20System

A firm pedal which slowly sinks to the floor suggests a bypassing master cylinder OR a leak...check for puddles!

A soft pedal means you are compressing air and a bleeding is called for.

Cheers from New England!

[viperv]

Thanks

I bought a new master cylinder today because the old one was in horrible condition. There was a layer of orange sludge in the bottom of the reservoir that I couldn't get out, and I did not want to risk my life on it. The adjusters are working fine on both wheels. I'll put in the new master. Bleed the brakes and if the peddle is pumping I'll tighten them up. Currently the brake peddle goes soft and needs one or two pumps before the brakes catch again. This happens in a matter of minutes. I'm hoping all the new parts will spell the end of brake problems for a while.

[Andrew (UK)]

Good luck with it. Interpreting brake pedal feel is a bit of an art that I am still learning. One thing I think that does help with bleeding when fitting new parts is to tap them in order to dislodge the air bubbles that can otherwise just cling onto internal surfaces.

[chrisb]

hi mate can you tell where you got them from and how much ta chris

[volvo tech.(old)]

Originally Posted by viperv

I'm helping a freind with a 1966 122. She got it back from the repair shop where they rebuilt the carbs after the car had been sitting for a year or two. Here is a list of all they said is still wrong with it:
LR Brake Dragging
Rear Diff Pinion Seal Leaking
LR Rebound Strap Broken
Tailshaft Seal Leaking
Valve Cover Gasket Leaking

The brake issues are first, because I really need to drive it. I've read the threads on the brakes, and I guess I better go ahead and order a puller now. It feels like the front brakes might be sticking as well. The peddle is really stiff and doesn't feel like its doing anything. Is it possible to loosen loosen things up or am I looking at replacing a bunch of parts. Thanks for any help.

you need a puller to get drums off use penetrating oil liberaly. tap on drum w/hammer.may need new cyls .sand out cyls. w/hone or a finger & sand paper.diff. leaks are usually slow & may heal itself after driving some.ck.lube level. rebound strap no big deal its to keep the spring from popping out on hard bumps etc. tighten screws on v/c gskt. also ck. that the u-joints move freely . common problem on this model. a good tough car in it's time.

[Derek UK]

Originally Posted by chrisb

hi mate can you tell where you got them from and how much ta chris

Chris, this car is in the USA.

[viperv]

Put about 5000 miles on the car in the past few months. Built my own pressure bleeder out of a garden sprayer and my old master cylinder cap. The brakes are working great. The peddle is a little soft on cold mornings but otherwise its real firm and responsive. No major problems so far. Its a little hard to get into first gear unless the car is completely stopped. It keeps me honest at the stop signs. Getting ready to change all the fluids again and hopefully have another 5k of crusing.

[Ron Kwas]

Viperv;

Trouble shifting into first unless completely stopped suggests inadequite disengagement of clutch...check fluid level/action at slave, adjust as necessary...

Cheers from Connecticut!