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Car polishers

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Old Jun 16th, 2020, 07:08   #31
green van man
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I bought a sealy polisher.

I then bought a Devillebis spray gun, a compressor a litre of etch primer, a litre of primer filler, and two litres of LandRover red paint to repair the damage.

There was a very good reason my mate NEVER let me play with the polishing mop when I helped out in his body shop.

Buy a polishing mop. Start a whole new hobby.

Paul.
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Old Jun 16th, 2020, 14:00   #32
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Originally Posted by green van man View Post
I bought a sealy polisher.

I then bought a Devillebis spray gun, a compressor a litre of etch primer, a litre of primer filler, and two litres of LandRover red paint to repair the damage.

There was a very good reason my mate NEVER let me play with the polishing mop when I helped out in his body shop.

Buy a polishing mop. Start a whole new hobby.

Paul.
Ha ha, i feel ya pain, been there done that, thankfully it wasnt too much of an issue lol
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Old Jun 16th, 2020, 14:43   #33
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HI folks, THIS is what many body shops use, i have used them many. many times when i was smart repairing at various defleet centers, Eurofleet (now Inchcape), Gefco, Paragon and QVR.

As for burning the paint, melting the rubber strips, headlights and bumpers etc, thats down to inexperience, done a few of each in my time lol (except a headlight but i know a guy that did melt a hole in one once), its down to a few factors, too much pressure, not enough polish, the wrong polish (inexperience) then wrong head and or too fast a head.

The only bad part about those polishers is burning through the bushes or bearings, but you should never do either, not unless youre going to be using it 8hrs a day 5/6 days a week under serious load

I should mention cutting compounds, the main ones was G4 and my fave, 3M Fast cut and your own fave polish to finish
That is a rotary polisher used extensively by professionals as it gives quick results - lethal in inexperienced hands. The DAS6 is a random orbital machine and much, much more forgiving, hence the go to machine in the amateur hobbyists market.
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Old Jun 16th, 2020, 16:40   #34
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That is a rotary polisher used extensively by professionals as it gives quick results - lethal in inexperienced hands. The DAS6 is a random orbital machine and much, much more forgiving, hence the go to machine in the amateur hobbyists market.
And thats why it has a variable speed plus, folks learn very quickly how not to do it lol I learnt on one and if i can do it, any one can, well, perhaps not someone with one hand, although, it can be done

EDIT:

Burning through is caused by not enough compound/polish, basically the pad gets too hot and melts the lacquer away, same idea with headlights too.

Also using a strong cut can also have the same effect, but this time its cutting the layers away.

Lower the speed, lots of normal polish and a sheepskin mophead is hard to go wrong

Always back the speed off on edges/sharp corners, less paint/lacquer there, it helps to mask off the opposite panels edge, always mask trims that dont need polishing, the mop will easily damage plastic, if its a bumper, back off the pressure and speed, dont be the hare, take ya time, dont start the job with a roast in the oven....

If youre new to machine polishing, the the above sealy that i mention is where i would start, back the speed off to say a 4, just use normal polish and lots of it, dont let the mop go dry, and dont put pressure on, just the weight of that mop is enough to do the job, dont use the handle either, place your none prime hand on the top front of the mop, perfect gripping place and easier to guide it and to give extra weight when needed.
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Last edited by Bashy; Jun 16th, 2020 at 16:57.
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Old Jun 27th, 2020, 16:20   #35
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Possibly a daft question, but I don’t know.....

Do you still need to clay the panels if you are using a polishing machine?

Thinking of investing in one now I’ve got the new car (and old one to flog on), but it’s all double Dutch to me 😂
You 10000% need to clay OR use chemical decontamination products prior to machine polishing.


fairy liquid,, with salt on metal car,, not the best idea

Wash the car, Properly
Pay Real careful attention to Gaps, trim gaps, panel gaps , Get the muck out as the Last thing you want is the pad to pick up grit/other from the gap and Rub it into your paintwork
you Can use "fallout removers" if you wish, on the panels Behind the wheels (brake dust/contamination) And horizontal surfaces Wash off Well after !

Clay the car, take care to NOT jam the clay into the paintwork, it doesnt Need to be Shoved into the paintwork to work, USE a clay lube and dont by stingy with the lube
give the car a Wash after claying, , dry the car.

Car Out of direct sunlight, panels NOT roasting hot

Mask up, Trim (ESP black plastic trim) , getting crammed in dried out compound off trim, from gaps between trim/paint/glass will drive you bonkers, and its so easy/quick to avoid.


Then start to polish,, do NOT rush
Always start with the LEAST aggressive pad and compound combo, test , change IF needed,

diving in with "max cut pad/max cut polish" is the fastest way to need a respray.

Clean your pad out After every section *soft tooth brush held Lightly to pad when spinning will do it, DO pay attention to Where the fling off from the pad will go,,,)

When you have finished that panel , Use Panel wipe, wipe over to remove residues from polishing and wipe SOFTLY with a clean microfiber cloth to pick it all up,,

Move to next panel, ,,,,

you Can make a Right mess Very very easily
do NOT rush, Either the Speed of the machine OR the speed you move it Over the panel, do not Jam the pad into the paintwork
Clean pads OFTEN (change pads as well!)
panel wipe
Take your Time
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Old Jun 27th, 2020, 19:08   #36
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Go on cleanyourcar.co.uk they sell all the gear and have a flow chart of the steps you need to do in order.

I got a DAS6 Pro off there years and years ago - only needed new brushes since
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Old Jul 4th, 2020, 21:14   #37
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I have recently bought a DAS6 polisher and it has been a total revelation regarding ease of use and finished results. I too have been very sceptical of burning paint and or over polishing, but that is truly unfounded.

I would reccommend a DAS6 - industry standard - and go for a 900w motor. Given the amount of time the machine is in use - while being used, if you see what I mean - a mains machine is essential, a cordless will not have enough 'oomph' or last long enough to get the job done.

Attachment shows finished result after first use of the machine - will never go back to hand polishing.
As per my previous post above: I have now machine polished 'er indoors Mini Cooper. Having hand polished it for 5 years the difference is like night and day. It has come up well for original paint and nearly 100,000mls.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg 20200702_193422 (2).jpg (193.1 KB, 14 views)
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Old Jul 4th, 2020, 22:25   #38
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Once you become competent with machine polishing you can then move onto bigger projects like removing orange peal from the paintwork by rubbing down with wet & dry and then machine back to a deep gloss















Attached Images
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Old Jul 5th, 2020, 02:47   #39
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Once you become competent with machine polishing you can then move onto bigger projects like removing orange peal from the paintwork by rubbing down with wet & dry and then machine back to a deep gloss
shall we setup a paint shop ,, "wet&dry goes Right"

specialising in sorting out "wrong grit used" & "too much elbow grease used"
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Old Apr 21st, 2021, 12:50   #40
derek vivian
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Default bodywork scratches removed

I have used 'miracle vanish pen' from EasyLIfe via eBay and it lives up to its name! See my post under 900 series thread.
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