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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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b16 engine overhaulViews : 16781 Replies : 148Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jan 10th, 2020, 20:37 | #91 |
arcturus
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Location: Sagres Portugal
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Oil pump connected up. Be extra careful fitting brass union to pump as it can easily cross thread. Attach all parts very loosely at first. until brass gland is securely threaded in.
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Jan 11th, 2020, 16:05 | #92 |
arcturus
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Replacing lifters. They were numbered on removal and are being replaced in same position as before. Note plenty of assembly paste. Easy access on B16
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Jan 12th, 2020, 11:35 | #93 |
arcturus
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Location: Sagres Portugal
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So,coming together.Less chance of damaging head gasket if you lay it on head and insert studs through. Start of with 3 or 4 studs only just to guide the head. then insert the remainder when head in place.. Lifting rings inserted at corners. Will torque down head when engine mounted in car,lifting studs removed and last four studs in place. Don't spare the copper-ease.That's the easy part done. Now to lift off stand and fit bellhousing, flywheel and clutch. Damn awkward.
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Jan 12th, 2020, 13:43 | #94 |
arcturus
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One more thing. Oil filter primed with oil and fitted. Will put just enough oil in engine and turn over by hand as much as possible to get oil circulation started
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Jan 13th, 2020, 13:35 | #95 |
arcturus
Last Online: Today 07:17
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Now to fitting bell housing and flywheel. Start of by setting engine to TDC number one. firing position. The studs on the flange are staggered so offer up the flange plate,find correct position, and mark at six o clock as photo.I use tipex
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life's too short to drink bad wine Last edited by arcturus; Jan 13th, 2020 at 16:11. |
Jan 13th, 2020, 13:47 | #96 |
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Does the shop manual call for the use of those lifting rings? Or is that something of your own design?
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Jan 13th, 2020, 16:11 | #97 |
arcturus
Last Online: Today 07:17
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Location: Sagres Portugal
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Guilty as charged
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Jan 13th, 2020, 17:19 | #98 |
arcturus
Last Online: Today 07:17
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sagres Portugal
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Next transfer to flywheel,locate correct position and mark as per flange plate.Find correct position for clutch and do the same. A dab of tipex on the end of each stud helps to locate flywheel attachment.
The light is a bit "Heath Robinson" but it does the job.You are now ready to offer up the fly wheel,can be a bit tricky. Make sure you have two shredded wheat for breakfast! At this point you can see the reason of all the previous marking.Everything should line up easily
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life's too short to drink bad wine Last edited by arcturus; Jan 13th, 2020 at 17:28. |
Jan 14th, 2020, 21:10 | #99 |
arcturus
Last Online: Today 07:17
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The really hard bit single handed. The Gearbox is heavy. Need to line up everything. I don't have a mandrel to center the friction plate so I will remove release bearing temporarily loosen off the pressure plate to allow friction plate to move a bit, insert gearbox (hopefully) and re tighten pressure plate. remove gearbox, insert release bearing and re enter GB. On the other hand I may just try to make a mandrel out of a piece of broom handle!Any other suggestions (helpful) gratefully received. (there isn't enough space in the bellhousing for a loose pressure plate and release bearing.ie bearing fouls the pressure plate as you try to insert it onto fork)
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life's too short to drink bad wine Last edited by arcturus; Jan 14th, 2020 at 21:17. |
Jan 15th, 2020, 00:24 | #100 |
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Location: Chatham
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A length of dowel the size of the bush/gearbox shaft can have electrical tape wound neatly round it to match the splined hole in the clutch disc. Align disc and then tighten up the cover plate bolts. There should be a short taper on the shaft to help guide it into the bush or bearing, depending on what you have.
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