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S80 '06-'16 / V70 & XC70 '07-'16 General Forum for the P3-platform S80 and 70-series models |
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New suspensionViews : 1588 Replies : 14Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 28th, 2018, 16:31 | #1 |
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New suspension
So, I think my drivers side front shock absorber is on the way out (2007 P3 V70 D5). It rattles when driving over roads where the top surface of the tarmac has worn away. Doesn't do it over big bumps or anything. Short continuous rough ground.
Anyway, I've changed suspension on a few cars now. Can't imagine this is much harder apart from the bottom of the strut just sits in the hub rather than being bolted to it Firstly Wondered if anyone had done this job themselves? Any tips? Secondly What is the OEM manufacturer of the shock absorbers of these cars? Although I've considered it, I don't think I'll bother lowering it or anything. I'll just replace all the struts, springs & top mounts with OEM. I'll probably buy top mounts from Volvo but would prefer to avoid their markup on spring and struts. SACHS seem to be the most readily available? Thanks all
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2008 (57 plate) Volvo V70 D5 with Poletsar remap (205) 1996 BMW E36 328i Sport Coupe 2019 VW MK7 e-Golf (full electric) (partners car) |
Sep 28th, 2018, 16:59 | #2 | |
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Bottom wishbone needs a special tool if you want to make life easy, or you make one out of 25x3 flat bar. Turn it back on itself so that it is a snug fit on the lip of the wishbone, bend it 90 degrees so that it rests on the top of the wishbone, bend it 120 degrees so that it drops down the other side of the wishbone then bend a curve or better still a circle in the end such that you can use a pry bar through the tool to the back end of the wishbone to bar the wishbone down and off the spigot of the bottom swivel. Once the pinch bolt is removed, fit your tool and press down to remove strut from wishbone. CAUTION I found my bottom curve had a tenancy to straighten in use, hence the circle or closed loop which I would weld if possible. I used a 2ft breaker bar handle as the pry and found it sufficient mechanical advantage to make things easy. Once I had made the tool from measurements off the car and shape from VIDA the job was a simple one man done in an hour affair, I had however spent half a day struggling and getting nowhere before I applied the science. Coil spring compressors will be needed to remove the spring once the strut is off the car and if you do not have a rattle gun I advise you loosen the top strut nut prior to removal from the car. I found it easy enough to do so with strut off the car with the rattle gun but left final torqueing untill everything reassembled and weight on the strut. Hope that helps. Paul. |
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Sep 30th, 2018, 11:06 | #3 |
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A straight forward job if your handy with your spanners . Biggest or toughest bit is prying lower wishbone down to remove/ insert shock from suspension housing /hub and its a close fit . Everything else is simple spanner work. If in doubt get it done at local garage .
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The secret of flight is to aim at the ground and miss ! Previous Volvos 740 GLE . V40 CD ,V70 2.4 SE LPT.V70 D5 P2. V70 D5 Se Lux P3. Current Jaguar XF Sportbrake but still like Volvos |
Sep 30th, 2018, 13:54 | #4 | |
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1) be cautious with the pinch bolt as they have been known to seize. Having said this mine had 180k Kms On them when I first took them off and they were fine. I did replace them though as they were pretty rusty. 2) unplug the ABS sensor and set it out of the way 3) slip a piece of flat metal in the pinch opening and then screw the pinch bolt back in until it pushed up against the metal thus opening up the pinch. 4) find a long piece of steel (ex 52 Thule x-bar) and slip it over the control arm and slip the end in the opening just forward of the front wishbone opening in the subframe. 5) step on the other end of the Thule bar and take a sledge hammer to repeatedly hit the top of the hub until it is down as far as you can get it. At some point you will notice that the Thule bar hits the ground and is no longer effective. At this point get a 24 breaker bar and insert it the opposite way: over the control arm and then under the rear wishbone bushing. Put a foot on the other end and give the hub a few more sacks until you can yank the hub forward away from the strut. When putting the hub back on be sure to get the tab on the back of the strut lined up as best you can BEFORE inserting the strut back into the hub. Then fit the two pieces back together (again using the pry bar technique). Then take a hammer to the sway bar link metal bracket to help twist the strut in line with the pinch opening in the hub. Dont be afraid to pound on the hub hard through. Just be sure to wear some ear protection. Good luck. Not a big fan of this design.
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2003 V40 1.9T B4204T4, 197,000miles (sold but alive!), 2004 S60 2.5T, 160,000miles, 2010 V70 3.2, 125,000miles, 2002 V70XC 2.4, 175,000miles Click here for my x40 and V70 P3 repair guides Last edited by pierremcalpine; Sep 30th, 2018 at 13:56. |
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Oct 1st, 2018, 09:49 | #5 | |
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I've tried to get my head around your tool description but I'm struggling a bit to understand it. Any chance of a pic? I watched this video which didn't look too difficult: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W81G_CNu9u4 You lot are putting me off though! I didn't think it'd be as straight forward as my older vehicles but was hoping to get away with my limited toolset! (Ratchets, spanners, screwdrivers, breaker bars, pickle forks, spring compressors, impact driver, torque wrench etc.)
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2008 (57 plate) Volvo V70 D5 with Poletsar remap (205) 1996 BMW E36 328i Sport Coupe 2019 VW MK7 e-Golf (full electric) (partners car) |
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Oct 1st, 2018, 18:45 | #6 | |
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I saw a picture of the special tool on VIDA if you have access to that. Being volvo the cost of that tool is likely to be more than a new v70 which is what decided me to make my own. Basically you need a bar attached to the wishbone that hangs below said wishbone that you can use to bar against and force the wishbone down. I did this by hooking the tool over the bottom edge of the wishbone, which stops it slipping off as you use it, then going across the top of the wishbone and down the other side turning a hook or eye in the hanging down bit to accept the prybar. As I said once I had made the tool the job was easy and I retained all my knuckles. Will try to get picture of tool and attach it here for others convenience but as said will need to enlist the help of others to do so. Paul. |
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Oct 2nd, 2018, 15:10 | #7 | |
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2008 (57 plate) Volvo V70 D5 with Poletsar remap (205) 1996 BMW E36 328i Sport Coupe 2019 VW MK7 e-Golf (full electric) (partners car) |
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Oct 2nd, 2018, 18:16 | #8 | |
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The tool allows you to place the pry bar under the wishbone where there is plenty of places to wedge the inboard end. Basically you are tieing the pry bar to the wishbone in order to force the outer end down and off the swivel joint. Paul. |
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Oct 5th, 2018, 11:08 | #9 |
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I watched this video which didn't look too difficult:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W81G_CNu9u4 You lot are putting me off though! The video you have linked is for P2 V70 up to 2006 and that was a simple job . Its a different set up for the P3 and a bit more tricky but still doable by any competent DIYer
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The secret of flight is to aim at the ground and miss ! Previous Volvos 740 GLE . V40 CD ,V70 2.4 SE LPT.V70 D5 P2. V70 D5 Se Lux P3. Current Jaguar XF Sportbrake but still like Volvos |
Oct 30th, 2018, 10:53 | #10 |
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Last Online: Oct 7th, 2022 08:44
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OKay, well i finally bit the bullet and bought some parts!
New Bilstein B4 shocks for each corner (as much as I wanted the B6's I just can't afford them at the moment). New monroe springs for each corner New lemforder front top mounts & bearings New drop links for the front. Is there anything else I'll need? I'm trusting I should be able to re-use existing dust covers, spring seats etc. I couldn't find anything for a top mount for rear shocks?
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2008 (57 plate) Volvo V70 D5 with Poletsar remap (205) 1996 BMW E36 328i Sport Coupe 2019 VW MK7 e-Golf (full electric) (partners car) |
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