Sticky/corroded brake calipers

[J liddy]

I alway s got my hex bolts off with the Alen. Key and a crack with lump hammer after useing releasing fluid a few times .

[mhuk]

@ OP, I had the same issue 2 months back. The pad was stuck on for a long drive home and came free at some point. I decided to remove and de rust my front calipers. I removed the seals and replaced. New pads / discs too.

The rear driver side is rusty as hell. That's going to be replaced while we are in lock down.

electrolysis works very well.

[dingov70]

Afternoon all , with regards to removing carrier bolts , it is good practice to fit the hex key ( preferably socket type ) and belt it into the bolt with a hammer . This shocks the bolts & hopefully breaks any corrosion bonding and drives the hex deep into the fitting . Lost count of the number I have attempted to remove after a weekend warrior only made use of the part of the hex hole . I also use the rocking method when undoing the bolt i.e.tighten the bolt ( odd though it sounds ) and then undo with a rocking motion . loosen & tighten slightly . This breaks the corrosion bond ( hopefully ) . I have resorted to a propane blowtorch to heat the carrier , again to break a corrosion bonding

Also it is becoming a better working practice to use a ceramic grease on slider pins / rear& edges of pads and wearing faces . I was in conversation with a braking component rep , who informed me they no longer recommend the use of copper grease . It appears that the coper particles may / can have an adverse effect on ABS system sensors . Many suppliers also provide sachets of molybdenum grease ( CV joint grease ) for the same reasons

[jpliddy]

Originally Posted by dingov70

Afternoon all , with regards to removing carrier bolts , it is good practice to fit the hex key ( preferably socket type ) and belt it into the bolt with a hammer . This shocks the bolts & hopefully breaks any corrosion bonding and drives the hex deep into the fitting . Lost count of the number I have attempted to remove after a weekend warrior only made use of the part of the hex hole . I also use the rocking method when undoing the bolt i.e.tighten the bolt ( odd though it sounds ) and then undo with a rocking motion . loosen & tighten slightly . This breaks the corrosion bond ( hopefully ) . I have resorted to a propane blowtorch to heat the carrier , again to break a corrosion bonding

Also it is becoming a better working practice to use a ceramic grease on slider pins / rear& edges of pads and wearing faces . I was in conversation with a braking component rep , who informed me they no longer recommend the use of copper grease . It appears that the coper particles may / can have an adverse effect on ABS system sensors . Many suppliers also provide sachets of molybdenum grease ( CV joint grease ) for the same reasons

hi is it advisable to use red rubber grease seen videos of using a smear on calliper seals .
i made sure the Alen key bolt hole was well cleaned out so the Alen key is deep into the bolt hole these bolts are big so may take a bit of cracking if these discs have been on a very log time you will need to be pacent but they should give up
may be some heat but im not experienced in that area ,!

[jpliddy]

Originally Posted by mhuk

@ OP, I had the same issue 2 months back. The pad was stuck on for a long drive home and came free at some point. I decided to remove and de rust my front calipers. I removed the seals and replaced. New pads / discs too.

The rear driver side is rusty as hell. That's going to be replaced while we are in lock down.

electrolysis works very well.

hi that look good i have about this but never seen it done . amazing !

[Ian21401]

I’ve read about electrolysis and it does seem to be very effective but have never done it. Those parts of mhuk’s look very good.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by dingov70

Afternoon all , with regards to removing carrier bolts , it is good practice to fit the hex key ( preferably socket type ) and belt it into the bolt with a hammer . This shocks the bolts & hopefully breaks any corrosion bonding and drives the hex deep into the fitting . Lost count of the number I have attempted to remove after a weekend warrior only made use of the part of the hex hole . I also use the rocking method when undoing the bolt i.e.tighten the bolt ( odd though it sounds ) and then undo with a rocking motion . loosen & tighten slightly . This breaks the corrosion bond ( hopefully ) . I have resorted to a propane blowtorch to heat the carrier , again to break a corrosion bonding

Also it is becoming a better working practice to use a ceramic grease on slider pins / rear& edges of pads and wearing faces . I was in conversation with a braking component rep , who informed me they no longer recommend the use of copper grease . It appears that the coper particles may / can have an adverse effect on ABS system sensors . Many suppliers also provide sachets of molybdenum grease ( CV joint grease ) for the same reasons

There shouldn't be any corrosion on the caliper carrier bolts as they should be installed with a thread locking compound that cures anaerobically thus excluding all air and with it, moisture.
Heat will help soften the compound but usually penetrating oils won't.

As for the copper grease excuse by the brake rep, you shouldn't be putting copper grease on ABS sensors anyway! There's no other way it can reach the sensors so it must be an excuse to sell more of their "new" gease.

Originally Posted by jpliddy

hi is it advisable to use red rubber grease seen videos of using a smear on calliper seals .
i made sure the Alen key bolt hole was well cleaned out so the Alen key is deep into the bolt hole these bolts are big so may take a bit of cracking if these discs have been on a very log time you will need to be pacent but they should give up
may be some heat but im not experienced in that area ,!

Red rubber grease (or silicone grease, they're both similar) is a good product to use on the caliper seals Jim and is what it's supplied for.

Originally Posted by jpliddy

hi that look good i have about this but never seen it done . amazing !

Originally Posted by Ian21401

I’ve read about electrolysis and it does seem to be very effective but have never done it. Those parts of mhuk’s look very good.

I've been using electrlytic derusting for many years now, something nobody has mentioned is that with load critical components such as brake calipers, after derusting they need baking in the oven for a while, i can't remember the exact temparature or time but i normally do an hour at 200C.
This is to allow the hydrogen to escape from the component so it doesn't cause brittleness - hydrogen embrittlement is the technical term.

If it's not a load critical component, after rinsing and drying i normally get a coat of apint (if needed) on to prevent further oxidisation. If that isn't a problem, i wait 24 hours and use the rotary wire brush to burnish the surface which helps in long term prevention of rust again. There are some other treatments as and when necessary, sometimes i'll nickel plate an item after derusting.

[lynns hubby]

I can never understand peoples thoughts on penetrating oils/fluids. Certainly if there is a thread to apply it to then you are in with a chance. In the case of the carrier bolts, the threads are non accessible and the hex head of the bolt is tight up against the carrier to the extent of creating a seal so the fluid goes no where except running off.
If you are really struggling with these carrier bolts because someone before you has not fitted the hex key in correctly or used the wrong size and mangled the head, then a small pair of stilsons can be used to grip the outside of the head and extra leverage with a pipe or similar will get them started.

I am sure I will get bombarded with people disagreeing but hey, that's what makes this forum so healthy.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by lynns hubby

I can never understand peoples thoughts on penetrating oils/fluids. Certainly if there is a thread to apply it to then you are in with a chance. In the case of the carrier bolts, the threads are non accessible and the hex head of the bolt is tight up against the carrier to the extent of creating a seal so the fluid goes no where except running off.
If you are really struggling with these carrier bolts because someone before you has not fitted the hex key in correctly or used the wrong size and mangled the head, then a small pair of stilsons can be used to grip the outside of the head and extra leverage with a pipe or similar will get them started.

I am sure I will get bombarded with people disagreeing but hey, that's what makes this forum so healthy.

I for one won't disagree, see my comments above about the carrier bolts.

[dingov70]

Originally Posted by jpliddy

hi is it advisable to use red rubber grease seen videos of using a smear on calliper seals .
i made sure the Alen key bolt hole was well cleaned out so the Alen key is deep into the bolt hole these bolts are big so may take a bit of cracking if these discs have been on a very log time you will need to be pacent but they should give up
may be some heat but im not experienced in that area ,!

Morning , YES red rubber grease ONLY on caliper seals , anything else causes rubber to swell / deteriorate /disintegrate . Ceramic for any rubbing /mating faces , with molybdenum as a second best

You really are better off using a allen key type socket fitted to a breaker bar as these bolts can require a lot of torque from you to release them . I have resorted to a cordless impact gun as a last resort on one vehicle , that was fun as the thread in the hub stripped and required helicoiling