Engine: D5: what could be draining my power?

[JoeNinety]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

I'm not looking to argue either. I'm just repeating what the maker of your meter has already told you in the handbook.
Every multimeter has their upper and lower limitations as well as their strengths which is why so many meter types are available.
I have screwdrivers which I could probably use as a crowbar but I also have a crowbar so why not use any tool for its designed purpose.

Using a clamp meter with the resolution of ours for milliamps would mean using it at the end of its lower limitations so I don't see the point and instead use a regular meter in series which is accurately working within its sweet spot exactly as it was designed to do.
When I need safe measuring of higher currents, the regular multimeter gets ditched and the clamp is used instead.

If you do a parasitic drain test correctly, you need to remove and replace the battery negative lead once and once only and even if you need multiple removals, it's a 10 second job which is still worth it for the sake of accuracy and no propping up of the meter is required.

Each to their own but if the maker of your meter tells you its technical limitations in the handbook, using it beyond the limitations and claiming accuracy seems an odd way to approach finding a fault.

Seems you missed this bit:

When i bought my cheap and cheerful UNI-T clamp meter, i wasn't expecting much, but my experience in using the device was better than imagined. But as with any such testing, good preparation and repetition of testing and consistent results provides confidence. I found that once positioned, with a suitable rest/support, I could leave the device in place during longer tests without having to hold it. Repeating the same test several times meant i could check for consistency in the results, and discard top/bottom values. in terms of the margin of error, once we have consistency of return, we are looking for change in result values when we change something (e.g. unplug a suspect ancillary or module) when repeating the test. Once the cause is found / resolved, a more accurate test can be carried out in line, if needed. In my case i returned the same readings (more or less) by either method (clamp or inline), and having resolved the component issue, was confident that the residual drain was within acceptable parameters.


But we are not going to agree, so perhaps we just stop

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by JoeNinety

Seems you missed this bit:
.....

Nope I read it all and disagree with your logic and methodology.

Originally Posted by JoeNinety

But we are not going to agree, so perhaps we just stop

On that I do agree 100%.

[totalguy]

Originally Posted by camturbo

Have you checked your ignition? Do you have a tow bar?

What exactly do you mean by ignition? Could be many things

No how bar may have had one but there is no sign of any old electrics apart from 1 wire on each of the rear lights was added but it's been cut off.

However I pulled the light wrong out and still produced the same problems

[totalguy]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

Nope I read it all and disagree with your logic and methodology.


On that I do agree 100%.

The uni-t meter is fantastic a lot of YouTubers use it and they use them along side with fluke meters and produce very close results or exactly the same

[totalguy]

Well it's at the BMW specialist now and I have a 120d to use

Thefirst test they said they will try is put it on a unit set to 14.2 volts and repeatedly start it and see what gets hot


While I drove it up there I got stranded for 20 mins something weird happened luckily I made sure the road was all clear before I did it.

I flicked the ignition off and back on in the hope to get an error to go away. Done it before once or twice but when I switched it back on power completely gone it was totally dead! I even tried to turn it to start and nothing. So rolled to a stop and turned it over turned over about 5 times no start! Then tried again and it was dying!

Luckily someone stopped and I got a jump start

**** knows what was going on!!!

See last night I charged the battery and this morning I got up and put it on to top it up and it did. So when I was ready to go put the negative on and started the car it nearly didn't go the starter was slowing down towards the end but luckily it fired! Doesn't make no bloody sense!


When I got there though left the car an hour and I expected it to not start but it did! Tried it 3 times 1 after the other no struggle just worked

[barrybritcher]

didnt read ignore

[barrybritcher]

didnt read ignore

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by totalguy

The uni-t meter is fantastic a lot of YouTubers use it and they use them along side with fluke meters and produce very close results or exactly the same

Yes I'm a YouTuber who uses both Uni-T and fluke and they feature in several of my videos but I don't use the Uni-T clamp meter for parasitic drain diagnosis for the reasons given earlier.

My parasitic drain video shows me accurately tracing an over spec drain within 30 minutes using a standard multimeter.

Once again, each to their own.

[totalguy]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

Yes I'm a YouTuber who uses both Uni-T and fluke and they feature in several of my videos but I don't use the Uni-T clamp meter for parasitic drain diagnosis for the reasons given earlier.

My parasitic drain video shows me accurately tracing an over spec drain within 30 minutes using a standard multimeter.

Once again, each to their own.

well i didnt use the clamp i used it as mentioned so....... i guess its satisfactory because it didnt show anything

but this problem comes and goes

[camturbo]

Let's hope that the garage solves your issue and let us all know the results that the garage find. It may help someone else out with similar issues in the future.