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Old Jun 11th, 2021, 07:09   #1
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After a mechanical breakdown ( no compression on No2 cylinder) I'm giving serious consideration to parting company with my 2004 V70R manual 126k miles.
My options I suppose are to sell for spares or repair or break the car up for parts. I suspect from reading other advice breaking up is the most profitable option. However what do you do with the "bits no one wants"? Will the scrap man come along with a Hi-ab?
Moving the car becomes an issue if you sell the wheels/tyres on day one, and I have no "leave it here "space...
Advise from those who have been through this process would be most appreciated. The car has lots of under 2yr old bits tyres/brakes/ driveshaft and turbo.
What I want for the car I suspect is a lot more than people would be prepared to pay, but I would also appreciate comments valuation too. I see cars on ebay/autotrader of 300-800 then see a set of 18" Pegasus wheels of 800....

Cheers
Bob
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Old Jun 11th, 2021, 10:30   #2
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Originally Posted by 100K+ View Post
After a mechanical breakdown ( no compression on No2 cylinder) I'm giving serious consideration to parting company with my 2004 V70R manual 126k miles.
My options I suppose are to sell for spares or repair or break the car up for parts. I suspect from reading other advice breaking up is the most profitable option. However what do you do with the "bits no one wants"? Will the scrap man come along with a Hi-ab?
Moving the car becomes an issue if you sell the wheels/tyres on day one, and I have no "leave it here "space...
Advise from those who have been through this process would be most appreciated. The car has lots of under 2yr old bits tyres/brakes/ driveshaft and turbo.
What I want for the car I suspect is a lot more than people would be prepared to pay, but I would also appreciate comments valuation too. I see cars on ebay/autotrader of 300-800 then see a set of 18" Pegasus wheels of 800....

Cheers
Bob

If you like the car I would repair it ..

Otherwise sell it as it is for a reasonable price assuming it needs a new engine ...
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Old Jun 11th, 2021, 10:32   #3
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Originally Posted by 100K+ View Post
After a mechanical breakdown ( no compression on No2 cylinder) I'm giving serious consideration to parting company with my 2004 V70R manual 126k miles.
My options I suppose are to sell for spares or repair or break the car up for parts. I suspect from reading other advice breaking up is the most profitable option. However what do you do with the "bits no one wants"? Will the scrap man come along with a Hi-ab?
Moving the car becomes an issue if you sell the wheels/tyres on day one, and I have no "leave it here "space...
Advise from those who have been through this process would be most appreciated. The car has lots of under 2yr old bits tyres/brakes/ driveshaft and turbo.
What I want for the car I suspect is a lot more than people would be prepared to pay, but I would also appreciate comments valuation too. I see cars on ebay/autotrader of 300-800 then see a set of 18" Pegasus wheels of 800....

Cheers
Bob
What's the nature of the fault causing the lack of compression on #2 Bob?

I think a lot of people would want to know that so they had an idea whether it was salvagable as a runner relatively cheaply if it's within the scope of their abilities or whether it's just a parts mule or "labour of love" rebuild job.

The other thing most will want to know is what sort of money you're looking for. That would also influence whether it would become a parts mule/labour of love resto or whether it's a fairly cheap repair for someone capable of DIY fixes.

You're in an unenviable position overall though, it's a car you've had a while from the sound of it and now you're faced with a choice of two undesirable outcomes. Breaking it yourself is undoubtedly more profitable than selling as a complete car but as you say, you'd have to get the local scrap man with his Hiab to remove it once stripped. Depending on the price of scrap metal at the time, it could range from you getting paid for the remains of the shell to you having to pay to get it removed.

Good luck with it whatever you decide though.
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Old Jun 11th, 2021, 12:19   #4
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If you like the car I would repair it ..

Otherwise sell it as it is for a reasonable price assuming it needs a new engine ...
I LOVE the car....had it since 2008. Have been advised its a 5hr head removal + 5 hr refit. Repairs to the head are extra ie valves and or guides. Additionally been advised that other bits should be replaced "while we are in there". Fortunately, cam belt was done 18 month back and PCV system refurbished 12 month back, but they are still talking "sensors".
If the head is removed surely the valves should be re-seated and would this not then need the shims to be changed at more expense.
I can see this job costing towards 2000, and as much as I love this car this looks like proving to be the straw etc....


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What's the nature of the fault causing the lack of compression on #2 Bob?

I think a lot of people would want to know that so they had an idea whether it was salvagable as a runner relatively cheaply if it's within the scope of their abilities or whether it's just a parts mule or "labour of love" rebuild job.

The other thing most will want to know is what sort of money you're looking for. That would also influence whether it would become a parts mule/labour of love resto or whether it's a fairly cheap repair for someone capable of DIY fixes.

You're in an unenviable position overall though, it's a car you've had a while from the sound of it and now you're faced with a choice of two undesirable outcomes. Breaking it yourself is undoubtedly more profitable than selling as a complete car but as you say, you'd have to get the local scrap man with his Hiab to remove it once stripped. Depending on the price of scrap metal at the time, it could range from you getting paid for the remains of the shell to you having to pay to get it removed.

Good luck with it whatever you decide though.

There is a thread about this issue here :-

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=317356

I have not updated it recently, but the feeling earlier was the issue was burnt valve, rather than H. gasket or split liner. There is still no sign of oil in the header tank or over pressure.

I'd rather see the car go to someone who would be able to repair ( or attempt repair) than break the car for parts, even if more profitable.

What the car is worth at present I don't know. As stated earlier there are lots of new bits and relatively new bits. The interior is in very good nick, with no rips/tears and only really minor wear to the bolsters.

If I could recoup the 2000 I spent at Christmas I think I'd let it go.. But Clan has seeded my mind with doubts .....again ....cos apart from a V70T5 (manual only) there is no other Volvo I'd rather have - and that includes all the fancy XC's.....

What to do ???? what to do???

Cheers
Bob
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Old Jun 11th, 2021, 12:28   #5
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So the required repairs may cost about 2,000. You love the car. What replacement could you buy for that cost. Get the CH off and see what may be required.
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Old Jun 11th, 2021, 12:38   #6
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Id be thinking...
Its broken (there Im being polite), what can I make worse by having a look inside the engine?

Actually can you get hold of an endoscope camera to look through the plug hole before pulling it apart?

Do you have anywhere to store it? Possibly tuck it inside and forget about it for a couple of months then re assess how you feel?
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Old Jun 11th, 2021, 12:50   #7
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Originally Posted by 100K+ View Post
I LOVE the car....had it since 2008. Have been advised its a 5hr head removal + 5 hr refit. Repairs to the head are extra ie valves and or guides. Additionally been advised that other bits should be replaced "while we are in there". Fortunately, cam belt was done 18 month back and PCV system refurbished 12 month back, but they are still talking "sensors".
If the head is removed surely the valves should be re-seated and would this not then need the shims to be changed at more expense.
I can see this job costing towards 2000, and as much as I love this car this looks like proving to be the straw etc....





There is a thread about this issue here :-

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=317356

I have not updated it recently, but the feeling earlier was the issue was burnt valve, rather than H. gasket or split liner. There is still no sign of oil in the header tank or over pressure.

I'd rather see the car go to someone who would be able to repair ( or attempt repair) than break the car for parts, even if more profitable.

What the car is worth at present I don't know. As stated earlier there are lots of new bits and relatively new bits. The interior is in very good nick, with no rips/tears and only really minor wear to the bolsters.

If I could recoup the 2000 I spent at Christmas I think I'd let it go.. But Clan has seeded my mind with doubts .....again ....cos apart from a V70T5 (manual only) there is no other Volvo I'd rather have - and that includes all the fancy XC's.....

What to do ???? what to do???

Cheers
Bob
Have you got one of these?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274421659779

If not, get yourself one and pull #2 plug and poke it in there and have a look. You may find that #2 piston has a hole in it which would cause total loss of compression or indeed that one or other of the valves are bent or burned.

If it's the latter, the cheapest way of doing things would be to buy a secondhand head (or complete reconditioned head), head gasket set, head bolts, new timing belt and possibly water pump and belt tensioners and fit the replacement head to it. If you ask nicely on the forum, you'll probably find someone willing to do it for beer vouchers - considerably less than the amount quoted by the garage.

However, if you do a decoke and clean/lap the valves, you will need to check and set the valve clearances and this almost always involves the use of shims - no getting round this if that engine uses shims. However i was always of the understanding the whiteblocks all used hydraulic tappets requring no routine adjustment. I could of course be wrong on that as i haven't had much to do with the whiteblock but the fact that the garage was talking about sensors without even looking at it to confirm your fault is worrying.

Ball park figures from a quick ebay search (i don't know the exact engine type on yours so searched for V70 and narrowed it down to 5 cylinder petrol) shows some used heads at 150-200, head bolt sets 20-40 (new) head gaskets sets 60-80 so for about 320 ish (maybe less) plus of course oil/filter and fresh antifreeze and timing belt etc as above (say 400 total) and some beer vouchers for a nearby member capable of changing the head you should have it sorted.

However please confirm whether it's a burned piston or valves first! Would be horrible to spend out and then find the piston had a hole you could drive a bus through!
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Old Jun 11th, 2021, 12:53   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reggit View Post
Id be thinking...
Its broken (there Im being polite), what can I make worse by having a look inside the engine?

Actually can you get hold of an endoscope camera to look through the plug hole before pulling it apart?

Do you have anywhere to store it? Possibly tuck it inside and forget about it for a couple of months then re assess how you feel?
Great minds! I was typing the same suggestion with a bit more info (see above) while you replied! Boroscope/endoscope/borescope is the way to go to find out what's happening/happened inside #2 pot then decapitate it if it appears to be a head problem (could also be stuck valves!) and sort it from there!
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Old Jun 11th, 2021, 17:03   #9
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
Have you got one of these?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274421659779

If not, get yourself one and pull #2 plug and poke it in there and have a look. You may find that #2 piston has a hole in it which would cause total loss of compression or indeed that one or other of the valves are bent or burned.

If it's the latter, the cheapest way of doing things would be to buy a secondhand head (or complete reconditioned head), head gasket set, head bolts, new timing belt and possibly water pump and belt tensioners and fit the replacement head to it. If you ask nicely on the forum, you'll probably find someone willing to do it for beer vouchers - considerably less than the amount quoted by the garage.

However, if you do a decoke and clean/lap the valves, you will need to check and set the valve clearances and this almost always involves the use of shims - no getting round this if that engine uses shims. However i was always of the understanding the whiteblocks all used hydraulic tappets requring no routine adjustment. I could of course be wrong on that as i haven't had much to do with the whiteblock but the fact that the garage was talking about sensors without even looking at it to confirm your fault is worrying.

Ball park figures from a quick ebay search (i don't know the exact engine type on yours so searched for V70 and narrowed it down to 5 cylinder petrol) shows some used heads at 150-200, head bolt sets 20-40 (new) head gaskets sets 60-80 so for about 320 ish (maybe less) plus of course oil/filter and fresh antifreeze and timing belt etc as above (say 400 total) and some beer vouchers for a nearby member capable of changing the head you should have it sorted.

However please confirm whether it's a burned piston or valves first! Would be horrible to spend out and then find the piston had a hole you could drive a bus through!

1) Yep I have a Clarke 'scope only 320 x 200 resolution but enough to tell me that there aint no hole in piston, and spent ages trying to remove bits of what I thought were coil spring, only to realise they are imprints in the pistons - ( confirmed this on a block shimming u-tube vid) Due to spark plug hole length and rigid first 1.5" there is no way to adjust scope to look back up and see the valves.

2) A refurb. head might a possibility - will look into this further thank-you. A 2nd hand scrap yard head might be as bad as the head I have????

3) Think you might be right re hydraulic tappets - will run that past VIDA tonight - I certainly have never adjusted them either in my T5 or the R.

4) I do have a place to "store" the car ( long wide drive)

5) You guys have been super supportive and encouraging me to continue, but I have to say in a similar vein to what others have felt when things are going wrong, part of me just wants to get rid and have done. Draw a line in the sand and move on. What/where I go .....who knows I'm a weather vane in a storm.


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Old Jun 11th, 2021, 19:27   #10
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1) Yep I have a Clarke 'scope only 320 x 200 resolution but enough to tell me that there aint no hole in piston, and spent ages trying to remove bits of what I thought were coil spring, only to realise they are imprints in the pistons - ( confirmed this on a block shimming u-tube vid) Due to spark plug hole length and rigid first 1.5" there is no way to adjust scope to look back up and see the valves.

2) A refurb. head might a possibility - will look into this further thank-you. A 2nd hand scrap yard head might be as bad as the head I have????

3) Think you might be right re hydraulic tappets - will run that past VIDA tonight - I certainly have never adjusted them either in my T5 or the R.

4) I do have a place to "store" the car ( long wide drive)

5) You guys have been super supportive and encouraging me to continue, but I have to say in a similar vein to what others have felt when things are going wrong, part of me just wants to get rid and have done. Draw a line in the sand and move on. What/where I go .....who knows I'm a weather vane in a storm.


Cheers
Bob
1) Sounds like the "pockets" for the valves - 4 in total, two for the inlet, the other two for the exhaust to avoid valve to piston contact in normal use.

2) A secondhand head might also be as good as your head was and if there is a problem with it, you could almost certainly make one good one from the two so you're still further forward.

3) A thought crossed my mind. It's unusual but sometimes happens if oil changes are skipped or low quality oil is used that the hydraulic tappets clog up so they no longer get proper oil pressure and therefore don't expand to take up the clearance or lift the valves.
You would have heard some valve-train related clatter at some point though before the misfire started. Would be even more unusual for a pair of hydraulic tappets to clog in the same cylinder but it might be a possibility. More a case of something to be aware of on the off-chance than a likelihood though.

4) Always useful to have storage!

5) You've had your car about the same amount of time as i've had my other beast - bought it 29/2/2008 and recently faced something similar with mine. It's not sorted yet but it is usable so i'm a bit ahead of you on that score but at one point it had me thinking do i cut my losses etc.
Short answer is no. Longer (but not longest) answer is what would i replace it with and how many problems would that have all needing sorting out and at what cost? It might be you decide to seel your V70 for say 800 and buy something else for 800 - no gain or loss on the money side as yet.
However, two months down the road when you find you've bought somebody elses problems that they hid well enough for you to buy it, you've got a cart-load of problems costing 2000 to sort out. You'll wish you'd spent that money sorting your V70 then.

All we can do is offer advice but i think most if not all of us are hoping you find a way to get this one sorted, i'm confident that if you keep it and sort it out, you'll be glad you did!
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