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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Alternator Bushes, to change or not?Views : 874 Replies : 6Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Feb 24th, 2016, 19:40 | #1 |
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Alternator Bushes, to change or not?
Hi All,
My 940 seems to like eating alternator belts. They seem to last around 12 months, then snap! My last one went just before Christmas and it took three hours to be recovered home! Anyway, this was replaced by a Genuine Volvo belt. On giving my poor neighbour a jump start tonight, I noticed the belt moving around a little on the pulley and sometimes almost jumping around, as if it was quite slack. The edges of the belt look like they are beginning to fray a little as well. All this is in a relatively short space of time. Its almost as if something is very slightly out of alignment and the belt is rubbing on the side of the pulley grove (if you can understand what I mean). Would it be worth changing the Alternator Bushes, maybe to stiffen things back up and stop the movement? The car is getting on a bit now, and maybe its time to look after the old girl a little better than I have been over the past 12 months or so! Its MOT time next month and ive got a few things that need sorting, but having seen the belt looking a little slack and the edges starting to fray a tad, would it be something worth doing? How much would I be looking at for polybushes (or just normal bushes!) and fitting at a local garage (I think labour is about £55 an hour). Cheers James __________________
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1997 Volvo 940 LPT Celebration. 187,700 miles, manual. |
Feb 24th, 2016, 20:25 | #2 |
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It does sound like something isn't straight. Is there any chance the belt was in the wrong slot on any of the pulleys ? Volvo helpfully gave you more belt grooves than needed to make things difficult. I struggled with mine as I had been supplied the wrong length belts which made things more tricky than normal.
A photo of your engine might help. |
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Feb 24th, 2016, 21:45 | #3 | |
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Quote:
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1997 Volvo 940 LPT Celebration. 187,700 miles, manual. |
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Feb 25th, 2016, 00:32 | #4 |
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The easiest way to see if the alternator is twisted is to put a straight edge on the pulley. I suggested a photo as someone might spot something, worth a try anyway.
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Feb 25th, 2016, 00:42 | #5 |
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Stick a voltmeter across the battery, run the engine up (I keep a cut off bit of wooden lolipop stick hung on a bit of cord ied to the carb to jam the throttle open at around 3K revs for when needing to recharge or while jumpstarting someone) and watch the voltage as you progressively load up by turning on everything electrical that you have on board, (main beam, fogs, rear screen heater etc) if it holds the 13.5-14 ish volts you start with then the brushes are delivering enough volts through the slip rings to keep the output coils generating adequately so the electrical side ought to be OK. This will also put a heavy mechanical load on belt and pulleys so you should be able to see or hear if it is slipping or jumping which needs investigating, also worth checking that the key in the alternator shaft hasn't been missed from a previous re assembly.
If using a digital meter it may not register rapid voltage fluctuations as readily as a needle meter. HTH You will need a smaller than usual crimp and crimp ferrules if changing brushes yourself on the Bosch / Volvo alternator |
Feb 25th, 2016, 12:34 | #6 |
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Changing bushes
PE bushings are around 8 GBP each, you need three. Changing is a piece of cake and will take you about 15 minutes max.
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Feb 25th, 2016, 21:18 | #7 |
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Another factor is the tension - apparently belts do not like to be too tight and a little pressure should give 1/2" deflection. For mechanical numpties like myself it's somewhat problematic to work out which of the fixings to alter to change tension in the correct belt. I've not had one go - yet, but as I can never manage to fully eliminate some degree of squeal will change every year.
jor
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Volvo 940 SE 1994 D24Tic. BMW C1 85 mpg |
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