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Rusty brake-line (hard line)

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Old Sep 27th, 2017, 13:54   #21
techcareuk
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I'm about to tackle this type of job, My 2001 V40 2.0T has been off the road for many years and i'm looking at possibly getting it back on the road.

Current known issues are all brakes seized-ish (it will roll with lots of effort from the engine), heater not getting hot - poss leak somewhere as system was empty but after filling it runs fine and engine stays at normal temp but it seems to me loosing slowly, oil leak from turbo (the small oil feed gasket thats a pain to change) & will need cam belt!

The brake pipe has burst somewhere above the fuel tank and I cant see the burst with the tank in situ.
The question is does the pipe feed from the master cyl routing to the NS caliper then does a continuous pipe run from the NS rear caliper to the OS rear caliper or does the feed from the Master cyl route to a pressure regulator above the tank then pipes from that feed both OS & NS rear calipers?

as you can gather I have not had a good look at the underside yet due to the location of the car at the moment.

I'm thinking its borderline time to scrap but everything else is in such decent condition Im thinking it would be a crime to break it.

Thanks to ITSv40 for the excellent detail in his account of pipe replacement!

cheers
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Old Sep 27th, 2017, 14:07   #22
ITSv40
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All four calipers have individual lines from the ABS module. The two rear pipes have a union on the bulkhead - nearside just before the pipes disappear under the car. Both pipes are single pipes from the bulkhead union to the rear calipers. You really will need to drop the tank to get access to do a decent job. Not difficult, just a little time consuming.
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Old Sep 27th, 2017, 14:55   #23
techcareuk
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Great Thanks ITSv40, I was looking at re routing the replacement line to save dropping the tank but I'll have a better look when i get the car moved.
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Old Sep 27th, 2017, 19:55   #24
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Take a good hard look at the fuel lines in the vicinity of the fuel filter. You may find that they require attention as well.
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Old Sep 29th, 2017, 23:36   #25
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I have been updating the brake pipes on an old Van I own and found this pipe to be reliable.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Copper-Nic...72.m2749.l2649

Don't buy Copper Pipe, but ensure you go for Copper Kunifer pipe instead. It is harder and much more resistant to vibration and corrosion than copper or steel.
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Old Jan 14th, 2021, 14:33   #26
Umski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierremcalpine View Post
What you want is 3/16" tubing (5mm) and bubble flair unions. Well to be fair, you don't need all your unions to be bubble flare but know that your flex lines will be so those joints will definitely need to be bubble. If you are cutting into the lines elsewhere you could use double flare if you prefer. All my reading suggesting avoiding single flare or compression unions for the brake lines. As for fuel, anything goes in theory - I went with double flare since I had the kit and the fittings were easier to come by. I hope that helps. BTW I also seem to remember suggestions NOT to use pure copper...don't remember why. I had the best success with Copper/Nickel alloy tubing.
Well thanks to this forum again for saving my V40 - I had a fail on the same lines on this year's MOT - to be fair it was mentioned last time but I couldn't face it and was going to bite the bullet and get a garage to do it until they mentioned a potential £3-400 bill

So I bit the other bullet and purchased the on-car bubble flare tool for around £35 from fleaBay and 25ft of Kunifer with m/f fittings - realising that a joint near the front of the fuel tank was needed I didn't fancy then having to use a bubble-double flare so looked into proper F-F connector which my local Motor Parts Direct had for 65p a pop Had this not worked I may have had to do the entire lines which again was too painful to face without a lift. Anyway after a bit of research and braving the cold with the car up on axle stands, I tried to follow the same path as the old pipes but there was no way I was going to route it around the top of the tanks so I went under and used some proper p-clips to makes sure there was no movement.

Undoing the driver-side union the pipe disintegrated so definitely needed doing. The flare went well on the kunifer (remember the union!) but then the trickier one on the steel knowing that if I messed it up I wouldn't have much clean straight pipe to try again.

IMG_7788.JPG IMG_7790.JPG IMG_7791.JPG IMG_7792.JPG

The trick was to go slowly and re-tighten the clamp screws every half turn of the flaring die so that there no slippage. I had to do this near the point where the two brake lines and fuel lines come under the bodywork and then bend round under the small plastic cover plate - very awkward on my back and the routing needed a bit of wrestling! I've added some pics to show the joins and routing - tester seemed happy with the arrangement. I bled the rears several times as the pedal always seemed to feel a little soft with the engine on - it passed the roller test okay however. So £35 in a new tool, £25 in pipe and fittings and around 8-10 hours messing under the car save a few £££ and maybe I'll brave it again one day (fronts are an advisory!).

IMG_7793.JPG IMG_7803.JPG IMG_7804.JPG

Thanks again for the advice on the pipe and flare type - bit of a minefield!

Last edited by Umski; Jan 14th, 2021 at 14:35.
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Old Apr 5th, 2022, 15:02   #27
oldsaab93
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Rather an old thread, but ...

Can someone please confirm that the brake line fittings are all metric threads??

thank you
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Old Apr 5th, 2022, 16:44   #28
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Yep M10 x 1.0
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Old Apr 6th, 2022, 12:47   #29
loelly
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Cupper can be "softend" by heating up and than a splach of cold water on it.
It is just the upposit for iron.
As for breaking you are right,here cupper lines ar no go at the MOT,for the same reason.
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