Suspension: Replacing Rear trailing arm bushes

[brens-s80]

Hi,

As my rear trailing arm bushes need to be replaced and I was doing some research and it appears that Superflex do a replacement version that uses the original shell.

From their website, in order to replace the bushing you can heat the outer casing (leaving all in situ on the car I assume) which breaks the seal with the rubber and the rubber can be removed. once the inner shell has being cleaned you can insert the new bushings.

Now this sounds like an easier option than either going and getting them fitted by a dealer or hiring out the tool from ipdusa to fit the standard ones, only "IF" you have access to a burner/torch.

I don't have any access to a torch so I was wondering what my alternatives are:

1. can I drill out the old rubber insitu ?. Lots of holes and then use a hacksaw to cut the remains out ?.
then clean up the insides.

2. use one of those small hand held burners
( nervous as flame+heat+petrol == big bang result no more 240 no more
house ).

3 any idea's or expierences you came across.

thanks in advance

brendan

[Clifford Pope]

That assumes that the outer steel bush is still sound. Mine, only 1993, were collapsing from rust, and would have been in no state for accepting a poly bush. I simply cut and chiseled the remains free of the axle lugs, and then fitted new standard bushes. But if I had decided to fit poly bushes I would first have needed to fit dummy steel outer bushes, assuming such exist.

[Erling]

I have not done what you describe - I chose to press mine out and install new original bushes, using a home-made press tool. I would nonetheless say that drilling out the rubber should be possible, albeit a rather messy job. Mine did not have any flat areas where you could easily get a drill bit to bite, so that might be a challenge:



To illustrate Clifford's point; one of the TABs on the son's car put up quite a struggle. I hade to cut it with an angle grinder and collapse it using a chisel and hammer:



Like you I would too have been very wary when using an open torch/burner near fuel and brake lines etc.

Good luck with the job, whatever approach you choose. I can assure you that the result is very rewarding.

[julie]

I have in the past used the method you discribe (drilling and cutting) and alough a little time consuming it dose work i think in the long run it would be easyer and quicker to remove the axel

[adamsky01]

most garages have press and for the cost of a couple of pints they will normialy press them out and put them in for u i would do it for u myself as i have a press but im in wales

[Clifford Pope]

I tried a press but the outer metal bush collapsed from rust. The weakened inner exposed section could not transmit any force to the other end. Cutting and chiseling took seconds. No need to remove the axle, just unbolt the trailing arm.

[Paul240480]

Just read this thread. I think my bushes are on there way out. Is this the common cause of the dreaded 'CLONK' when starting off in reverse, and then again when pulling away in 1st? (I have done the bushes on the 'reaction rods' (think thats the right name) already and it still clonks).
Cheers

[Clifford Pope]

Could be. But also check the front suspension bushes, particularly the one that connects the swinging A-plate to the chassis rail just by the engine. (Someone tell me its proper name - I can never remember)
The clonk is most noticeable in the front footwells, but can be transmitted along the car.
In my experience the main sources of noise are:

1) front bushes, as described above. This is usually apparent going slowly on uneven ground

2) reaction rod bushes. A violent thumping when starting on a hill, or applying torque in conjunction with a tight turn. Clunk on taking up drive if very worn.

3) trailing arm bushes. Not really noticeable when going gently, because the car just sits on the worn bushes and compresses them. The others are free to waggle about either side of a neutral position, so are more sensitive.

4) universal joints, or telescopic sliding joint. Clonk on taking up or reversing drive. Vibration at speed.

5) prop centre bearing support doughnut. Can let the prop thrash around, but ime the rubber is pretty floppy even when brand new, so I think this effect is overstated.

6) Rear shocks worn out, or attachments loose.

7) Front shocks, or botom ball joint, or steering rack or joints.

As I say, some noises do seem to be specifically located, others have a weird way of appearing to come from somewhere else. (I'm currently on the track of a slight rattle that appears to be left rear, but occurs only when cold during the first few miles. Its fellow noise on the right was a slightly loose shock bolt, but this one isn't)

[ALLOA]

One of the intended jobs for the summer was to rebush the back of my estate. I had intended to use poly bushes but never comprehended that they would come without the external steel tubing. Does anybody know if the outer steel sleeve is available? Like Cliffords I reckon that mine will probably collapse. I don't see this being a problem with the panhard or control arms but certainly the trailing arms!

Any ideas?

Cheers

Scott

[Ben O Brien]

I changed these on the 242 a few years back and used a vice i.e a bench vice sitting on an axle stand with the trailing arm unbolted, plenty of wd40 and two sockets, cant remember the size now at this stage but they were massive, worked quite well, and i used original bushes, to quote the haynes manual.. refitting is the reverse of removal..