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Coil testing specs. (stalling at low load) ?

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Old Oct 24th, 2018, 00:03   #1
gloster_man
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Default Coil testing specs. (stalling at low load) ?

My usually-reliable 1992 B200F has been dying at junctions, etc., whenever I've been out recently (not often!), and I (on Sunday) and AA man (today) found no spark from distributor ... but occasionally it will run - e.g. after rotating fuses or cleaning plugs or interior of dizzy cap. Fuel is getting through. So maybe the coil is u/s, but I'd like to test it before buying another. Car and I brought back this evening on a rescue truck; will only go out again when I'm sure of reliability!

My Haynes manual - no. 270 - covers only up to 1988 [my later book has gone missing] and details testing of all older systems, with widely varying primary & secondary resistances for the coil - but not LH 2.4. Can somebody quote me the values for checking the coil on my vehicle? (And /or suggest any other potential cause of this trouble.)

I haven't thought of the Crank Position Sensor being faulty, as I replaced it about 25,000 miles ago - but will do so in the morning. Maybe the electronic ignition module .. (but how to know if it's not working /giving output?) [.. for the same reason].

Thanks all.
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Old Oct 24th, 2018, 09:26   #2
Clifford Pope
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Have you read this?:

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Ele...nitionAmplifer
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Old Nov 26th, 2018, 02:17   #3
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Thanks for the link, Clifford - with the test for the coil and useful anecdotal stuff.

From the AA man I could see that I have no spark from the coil lead to the distributor. I've replaced the coil with a new one [not full price but I was assured it is good], and the Ignition Amplifier with a s/h one supposedly "in full working condition". Is there a test for the Amplifier (beyond 'it works and the car goes now')? I'd like to know if mine was faulty, and also the replacement with which I still have no spark and no go. Also how to fix it if it is dud. (Don't want to have to find another, "guaranteed" & expensive, one.) Have also swapped the coil lead with one of the plug leads but still nothing, even with a well-charged battery. The c.p.s. cable is solid, not frayed and worn-out like it was before I replaced it the last time I had a no-start.

Any suggestions welcome! - as I've been car-less a month now and really need to sort it out.
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Old Nov 26th, 2018, 10:09   #4
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Have you tried connecting fuses 4 and 6 together, eg with a short wire with a crocodile clip on each end? This will bypass the fuel pump relay and run the pumps continuously.
It's a good quick test for a failing relay, which is a common fault, and will get you home if the relay fails.

Otherwise, you seem to have covered my Big Four of usual faults.


I'm not sure how to test a coil other than by substitution. I know they can gradually break down with age, and the usual symptoms are missfiring and then stalling and non-start after the coil has got very hot, recovering when it has cooled down.

There's a thin braided earth wire attached to the camshaft cover, which is said to be important for the low-current electronics (ie not starter motor) which can crumble and break.

Rotor arm - cheap modern ones are always said to be poor quality and break down.

Distributor cap? Unplug each lead and check for corrosion, and look for tracking inside.
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Old Nov 28th, 2018, 18:51   #5
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Thanks for the fuses 4 + 6 tip, I'll try it when it's reliably dry.

I could also have said that after the last time it ran (a couple of minutes) soon after getting back here I checked the fault codes, and got 1-1-1 on both sockets (main & ignition ECU's).

I'm wondering if maybe my lambda sensor has failed (it wasn't a top-price replacement, about two years ago) - as thay don't seem to last very long, even though it didn't show up as a fail by the diagnostic.

Also - after reading the anecdotes again - will check out the AMM, hoses, and security of all cable connections.

My cam cover's earth lead is O.K.

I will think of checking other stuff, and anything else that occurs ... when it stops raining!

Cheers.
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