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"Auxiliary In" Hack for HU-6XX series

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Old Jan 16th, 2013, 23:59   #11
fat tony
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I've just ordered some parts from Maplins, so i'll be attempting to hack a HU-605 at the weekend, i'll let you know how i get on
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Old Jan 22nd, 2013, 14:46   #12
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Posting purely for entertainment...

So I took it a step further and continued the quest to gain access to the underside of the main board of the HU. Turns of that you need to take the entire HU appart to be able to remove the bottom panel (on the HU-615 anyway). You then have to be able to put it back together in a manner than still allows access to the underside which meant putting the back and sides back on and using some electric tape to support the CD player in its place.

Brought it back in the car, plugged it in upside down and proceeded to find a good point to connect to for audio.

Took quite a while as there is absolutely no helpful notation on the underside of the panel. The only points that gave reasonable sound where the four connections near the output of the amplifier. I did not like the four points instead of two and my instincts were telling me that something was up but I ignored them and forged ahead. Some trial and error indicated which were left and which were right so I took the unit back into the house for soldering.

I first took a small piece of insulated wire and soldered the lefts together as well as the rights (again the instincts were in high gear advising that this was probably not a good idea but ignored them as the sound was quite crisp (and loud) from these connect points). I then soldered on an audio cable (L and R) + grounded on a screw inside the unit.

Put the whole thing back together (without any screws left over) and hurried out to the car to give it a go.

Plugged it in and sound was fantastic! Turned the volume down but...what's this? No volume control? Tried to adjust base and treble...oh oh, no base and treble. Changed from CD to Radio and my blackberry continued to blare through the radio signal. Turned the Radio volume right down and got really nice sound out of the blackberry. Crap.

Long story short, when a device is plugged in it pumps the signal in over top of whatever is playing be it a blank CD (which was my original plan) or FM/AM radio. Furthermore, the sound is totally reliant on the quality of the amp in the portable device (in my case a Blackberry) so the treble is good but base is not strong.

So basically what I've done (I believe) is connect to a point in the circuit "after" the volume has been inserted (+ other audio controls) and therefore I am not able to use any of the HU's native functions. Theoretically all I need to do is trace the signal backwards until I find the point at which the audio controls are inserted...I'm curious as to whether such a point exists on this board or whether the "front" PCB is the one that needs to be looked at. If this is the case, I'll need to also take off the face and put the unit back together without it in order to fish around to find a good connection point...that would be tough.

I may have to give up for a while as I regain my sanity and will post if/when I give this another go.
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Old Jan 22nd, 2013, 15:29   #13
fat tony
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I never got round to having a go at the weekend, too busy at work!

What i'm planning on doing is:

Disassemble the unit, inspect the tape deck circuit board, where the audio signals come out of the tape deck, cut the trace on the circuit board, solder a connection after the cut and then test it.

That way, it wouldn't matter what tape was in the tape deck, it wouldn't be able to interfere with it.

My plan will probably change after i get it open and then start tracing the circuit!

Failing that, i'm looking at making a cheap adaptor that plugs into the cd changer socket, just getting my head round the M-Bus signals at the minute!
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Old Jan 22nd, 2013, 15:33   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fat tony View Post
I never got round to having a go at the weekend, too busy at work!

What i'm planning on doing is:

Disassemble the unit, inspect the tape deck circuit board, where the audio signals come out of the tape deck, cut the trace on the circuit board, solder a connection after the cut and then test it.

That way, it wouldn't matter what tape was in the tape deck, it wouldn't be able to interfere with it.

My plan will probably change after i get it open and then start tracing the circuit!

Failing that, i'm looking at making a cheap adaptor that plugs into the cd changer socket, just getting my head round the M-Bus signals at the minute!
That's a cool idea...keep us posted!
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Old Jan 22nd, 2013, 17:20   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierremcalpine View Post
Posting purely for entertainment...

So I took it a step further and continued the quest to gain access to the underside of the main board of the HU. Turns of that you need to take the entire HU appart to be able to remove the bottom panel (on the HU-615 anyway). You then have to be able to put it back together in a manner than still allows access to the underside which meant putting the back and sides back on and using some electric tape to support the CD player in its place.

Brought it back in the car, plugged it in upside down and proceeded to find a good point to connect to for audio.

Took quite a while as there is absolutely no helpful notation on the underside of the panel. The only points that gave reasonable sound where the four connections near the output of the amplifier. I did not like the four points instead of two and my instincts were telling me that something was up but I ignored them and forged ahead. Some trial and error indicated which were left and which were right so I took the unit back into the house for soldering.

I first took a small piece of insulated wire and soldered the lefts together as well as the rights (again the instincts were in high gear advising that this was probably not a good idea but ignored them as the sound was quite crisp (and loud) from these connect points). I then soldered on an audio cable (L and R) + grounded on a screw inside the unit.

Put the whole thing back together (without any screws left over) and hurried out to the car to give it a go.

Plugged it in and sound was fantastic! Turned the volume down but...what's this? No volume control? Tried to adjust base and treble...oh oh, no base and treble. Changed from CD to Radio and my blackberry continued to blare through the radio signal. Turned the Radio volume right down and got really nice sound out of the blackberry. Crap.

Long story short, when a device is plugged in it pumps the signal in over top of whatever is playing be it a blank CD (which was my original plan) or FM/AM radio. Furthermore, the sound is totally reliant on the quality of the amp in the portable device (in my case a Blackberry) so the treble is good but base is not strong.

So basically what I've done (I believe) is connect to a point in the circuit "after" the volume has been inserted (+ other audio controls) and therefore I am not able to use any of the HU's native functions. Theoretically all I need to do is trace the signal backwards until I find the point at which the audio controls are inserted...I'm curious as to whether such a point exists on this board or whether the "front" PCB is the one that needs to be looked at. If this is the case, I'll need to also take off the face and put the unit back together without it in order to fish around to find a good connection point...that would be tough.

I may have to give up for a while as I regain my sanity and will post if/when I give this another go.
Your particular model seems a bit of aggravation but it does show that if you do your bit and try it will give you results and at least the sound was crisp!

It is surprising how all these different models do change in there assembly and i wonder why?

Just keep trying and do some prodding nearer the volume control, that is all i did to the 805 and i was rewarded, keep your pecker up!

You can now see how you have to be strict with the method of finding out the correct soldered connection.

Good Luck
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Old Jan 22nd, 2013, 17:27   #16
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They're not easy to figure out due to the different manufacturers of the stereos:




A guide for one, will be nearly irrelevant for the others
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Old Jan 22nd, 2013, 17:30   #17
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Originally Posted by fat tony View Post
They're not easy to figure out due to the different manufacturers of the stereos:




A guide for one, will be nearly irrelevant for the others
Amazing, i have never seen that list, had to put two pairs of glasses on to read it
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Old Jan 22nd, 2013, 17:32   #18
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i know, would be better if it was clearer, that's the only resolution i could find!
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Old Jan 22nd, 2013, 19:19   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 960kg View Post
Your particular model seems a bit of aggravation but it does show that if you do your bit and try it will give you results and at least the sound was crisp!

It is surprising how all these different models do change in there assembly and i wonder why?

Just keep trying and do some prodding nearer the volume control, that is all i did to the 805 and i was rewarded, keep your pecker up!

You can now see how you have to be strict with the method of finding out the correct soldered connection.

Good Luck
Indeed! Near the volume control, you say. Hmmm, I'm thinking more and more that the front panel needs to be looked at...there are a fair bit of electronics in behind the volume control dial back there. Thanks.
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Old Jan 22nd, 2013, 19:20   #20
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Originally Posted by 960kg View Post
Amazing, i have never seen that list, had to put two pairs of glasses on to read it
I noticed that the HU-615 is not on there...I'm assuming it's the same as the HU-605 but maybe not.
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