V50 Immobiliser fault? Turn steering try start again

[brian1985]

Originally Posted by dsample

I've had the same problem. It happened a week ago as were levering to catch a flight (typical) but worked once I left the car alone for a couple of minutes. It happened again when we returned to collect the car, and this time it just wouldn't start. Note though, that the steering lock was not engaged, so I couldn't 'jog' it, as I had done a week earlier. (We tried for about 15-20 minutes without any luck.

The manager of the carpark and I then watched a YouTube video that showed taking the dash undersides and steering column plastics off to get to the steering lock. Unfortunately the video was using a C30, and their steering lock was attached by T20 screws... The one on my V50 is attached by an irremovable rivet-like bolt.

Fortunately, some other advice said to give the unit a good whack, and after a few good hits it started and got us home.

My local mechanic is going to see what he can find out from a Volvo specialist and some other research, and recommend a proper fix.

Exactly same issue on my C30 last night. Had to have it recovered, as I was on a car park and would have ended up with a parking ticket, so might as well pay to recover it then.

I’ve been told on other forums, that it usually happens in the locked position, but mine was in the unlocked position, so the usual methods of turning steering wheel don’t really work. Tried hitting it hard, but as it’s unlocked don’t think it would have worked, because it was unlocked.

My nearest Volvo dealer is 50+ miles away, so hoping my mechanic finds something else at fault. But, expecting the call to inform me he can’t sort it, and to take it to Volvo.

[jamesmc1990]

I had the same issue recently, (the day after MOT). The steering wasn't locked as I could turn the steering wheel from lock to lock but the engine wouldn't turn over.
I have breakdown cover included in my insurance and they took it to my local dealer who replaced SCL for £280 all in.

[Davegooch]

I have had the same problem on my 2010 C30 1.6D. With mine the steering lock does not engage, which seems to mean that because it can't then disengage, the car won't allow itself to start - safety measure I guess.
My neighbour is a mechanic, and he has had the steering lock off twice to free it and clean it etc.
After the first time I didn't have any problems for about 5 months. It happened again about 2 weeks ago, and now it's done it again and I am sat here waiting for my breakdown service to arrive.
I was quoted around £350 by my local main dealer to supply and fit a new steering lock and the associated software. ☹

[Pipemaster]

I have a 2010 C70 and have this problem right now. fortunately i was visiting my friend who has a garage specializing in Range Rovers so has the plug in diagnostic laptop which showed that the ecu brain thought that the steering lock was engaged and so will not take the immobilizer off the engine.

The steering is not locked as we were able to steer and push the car around thankfully. It is now in their care and when I find out how they fixed it i'll post it on here.

[Pipemaster]

Originally Posted by Pipemaster

I have a 2010 C70 and have this problem right now. fortunately i was visiting my friend who has a garage specializing in Range Rovers so has the plug in diagnostic laptop which showed that the ecu brain thought that the steering lock was engaged and so will not take the immobilizer off the engine.

The steering is not locked as we were able to steer and push the car around thankfully. It is now in their care and when I find out how they fixed it i'll post it on here.

The steering cowl off and the steering module was red hot so it looks like a replacement is needed

[Dean92]

I had the turn steering try again error come up yesterday on my V50. All the electrics were coming on but the engine just would not start. On the underneath of the steering is an exposed metal square which is the steering lock mechanism. I hit this a few times with a hammer whilst wiggling the steering wheel and it worked. The car starts fine now. The mechanism must get jammed and then send a message to the immobiliser to stop the car from starting. Just need to get a replacement mechanism now and hopefully it won’t happen again. I’m going to avoid activating the steering lock for now and I’ll keep a hammer in the car for good measure! Hope this helps people

[Pete-V70 D5 2003]

Pig of a job but need to get steering lock off car and leave it off (cable tie to column) sorted mine for a year.

These will help



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P1 Volvo Steering Column Lock Failure

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/p1-volvo-st...n-lock-failure






•FCP Euro's DIY Blog /


•************************************************* ***********************************


Volvo S40 / V40 Steering Lock Fault, Car wont Start. How to Repair or Replace.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BEt8oxXTqxM

************************************************** ********************



If you get messages like: "Immobilizer see manual", "anti-skid temporarily off", "anti-skid service required", "srs airbag service urgent", instrument cluster goes mad, or you have no control over central locks, wipers, climate...
Most likely you can fix those issues by removing rust and dirt from CEM connectors.
Volvo V50 CEM / Ford Focus MK2 GEM connectors fix

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkG_tGTdoYk

************************************************** ************************************************


https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...005-S40-T5-AWD









•How-To: Replace Steering Column Lock on a 2005 S40 T5 AWD



This is probably a rare circumstance, but I figured that it would be good to document a how-to of it simply because of that purpose. Hopefully it helps someone in the future and maybe saves some folks some time and money! I also appologize about the excessive length...I like detail, but just read the quick version if you know most of the basic dash removal junk.

Applicability:
Should apply generally to almost any Volvo with a key (maybe not push start's) and the steering wheel lock.

Problem:
Steering Column Lock is faulty or seized. Vehicle is electronically immobilized for anti-theft purposes.

Symptoms:
Key in the ignition but won’t even try to turn the engine over (key does move to “phase III” though). Warning light states “Steering Locked, Turn Wheel”. The problem though, is that the wheel WASN’T locked and you can turn it all day long. When turning the wheel, the warning changed to “Steering Locked, Try Again”.

The crappy part about this is that even though the wheel will not be locked, it immobilizes the starter until it is remedied. When you put your key in your ignition, you usually hear the “zzzpp”, as one poster mentioned in a post I found online, which is the unit locking/unlocking. In this case, I just heard a “tic, tic, tic” (3 every time). Something was trying to move, but couldn’t.

I went all the way to the point of pulling my unit out and found that I actually got it to work! Skip to Step 7 for the key in my remedy that I think is how I got it to work...

Solution Options:
1) Go through steps 1 through 7 below and see if you can “fix” your current unit without even taking it out all the way. READ/COMPLETE THESE FIRST STEPS BEFORE YOU BUY YOUR REPLACEMENT UNIT! Just in case you fix it and don’t need to buy the part.

2) Replace the unit yourself.
a. Dealer uses “sheer” bolts for anti-theft purposes, which are a PITA to get out. Buy new ones if you want from the dealer, or just get the comparable bolt size from HD with an allen head or something. Your choice on the anti-theft prevention…
b. REQUIRED AFTER REPLACEMENT. Get the car towed to the dealership to get PWNED by the absurd “reprogramming” cost. The new part requires a software “pairing” or something since it is key related. According to my dealer, you WILL NOT be able to start the car after replacing the unit until it is reprogrammed, I assume with VADIS.

3) Get it towed to the dealer and save 3-4 hours of labor and just spend a ton of money. Your cost would include towing, labor (I think 3 hours at the dealer), $150-200 in parts, and the additional 30 mins labor for reprogramming PLUS a $65 software fee(Garbage…….)

Tools needed:
- T25 screwdriver (This is the only tool required if you just need to un-seize your lock)
- Flat head screwdriver, or similar, for removing plastic pieces
- 13mm wrench
- Sheer Bolts ($6/each at the dealer, two needed)
- Steering Column Lock ($104 on tascaparts.com, ~$155 at the dealer)
- Bolt extractor kit, left hand drill bits, etc to get the two sheer bolts out.
- Drill

Time:
1 hour if you can go through option 1 above. 3-6 hours (depending on your speed of removing the sheer bolts really)

Quick procedure:
1) Remove the underside dash on the drivers side
2) Read steps 6 & 7 in the full procedure below for testing
3) If replacement is required, lower the steering wheel
4) Remove the unit by drilling out the two bolts on the unit, unclipping the harness and the steering control wiring clips, and sliding it backwards
5) Repeat install
6) Tow your car to the dealership to have them reprogram the new SCL




Full Procedure (pics to be added later):

1) If you have your radio code, it is a good idea to disconnect the battery’s positive terminal to prevent any erroneous shorts (ie: triggering the airbag). I don’t have my code and the dealership I called tried to look it up and said “huh…looks like yours doesn’t have a code.” Lots of faith in that statement. So I just worked carefully, but there isn’t much wire/connection exposure, so you should be fine either way.

2) Remove the outer piece of the dash – the piece with the rubber vent attachment. Pull on the front, to the side of the car

3) Remove the rectangular piece of the underside dash behind the center console. There is a clip in each corner on the back, but they should pop out by simply pulling.

4) Remove the three (3) Torx 25 screws on the main underside dash

5) To remove the panel once the screws are out, you will pull downwards as there are 4 clips at the top. You will also need to unclip the interior ambient sensor from the far right of this panel (where the little 1-inch vent is located behind the console). NOTE: you may have to bend the carpet down where it meets the panel behind the center console to get the panel out.

6) At this point you should be able to see your unit located in the back middle of your steering column. Your unit is either:
a. Like mine, where, on the driver’s side, it will have a small button/pin that is about ¼ inch away from the sheer bolt. Or…
b. It is like the new one the dealer gave me and it does NOT have the button/pin. If you have this one, you can try to go through the steps of removing it and fiddling with it, but I’m not certain if the next step applies at all in the internal design of this new one.

7) If you have option A above, reach into the unit and see if your button/pin depresses (Once remedied, mine had about a 1/4 inch of travel). This is to see if you can simply un-seize the mechanism internally. Put your key in the ignition at this time. While trying to push the button, turn the steering wheel a little bit and this will make the system try to unlock (the “tic, tic, tic” noise). If it works, you’ll hear the “zzzpp” and BAM, you fixed it. If it didn’t work right away, try a few more times with depressing the button and turning the wheel and “asking” the system to try again. Also try disconnecting and reconnecting the cable to the unit in the process.

Since I didn’t do this in this exact order, I’m not sure if depressing the button made mine work again or if the excessive jarring from trying to get the sheer bolts out did. I think it would’ve, but I can’t be positive. Hopefully this works for you though!

8) If you have option B or the pin un-seize method isn’t working, you likely need to get your unit all the way out to fiddle with it or replace it (bummer….). Leave the units cable disconnected.

9) Since you need to access your unit completely, we have to start pulling plastic. Start with the 3 T25 screws under the steering column.

10) To separate the top and bottom halves, I popped the flathead screwdriver in right in the front, behind the steering wheel and worked back from there. It’s all the plastic tabs, so some of them may or may not be hard to remove. I had to use some force, but none of mine broke.

11) The rubber flap just under the dash on the top of the column also clips to the top half of step 10, so again, pop it off.

12) Remove this metal panel’s 4 T25 screws and set it aside (I can only assume it is an additional firewall or something?). Removing it gives you better access for removing the sheer bolts later on.

13) Remove the steering wheel adjustment lever to drop the wheel to rest it on the seat. Again, this gives you better access for drilling out the bolts.
a. On both sides of the wheel, there is a metal spring arm (for tension purposes). ONE AT A TIME, use some muscle and push it down and then SLOWLY move each one upwards until it rests under the dash. Try not to let it SNAP up because they’ve got some pretty good tension.
b. Take note of how the pieces on the “wheel adjustment arm” connect on the column as you have to take them all the way off. With the springs removed, use the 13mm socket to remove the bolt on the left side.
c. Bolt removed, hold the wheel with your knee and slide the long adjustment bolt out to the right. Set those pieces aside and you should have a wheel the moves freely up and down. Pull it out all the way and set it on the edge of the drivers seat to rest.

14) Use whatever weapons of choice you have to remove the sheer bolts. I couldn’t get a great angle at them and absolutely murdered the job. Seriously, it was hideous. Do your own research on how you want to un-thread the bolts. I only broke off the round head pieces after drilling to manage to squeeze the unit out. If you’re replacing it anyhow, get creative…

15) Once you’ve got your bolts out, unclip the two (2) white clips holding the steering control wiring in place by pressing squeezing them and pushing down.

16) If you have the one with the button/pin, you’ll need to get that depressed to get the unit out, otherwise it’ll prevent you from sliding the unit out. Slide the unit towards the front of the car, as there is an angled v-clip thing on the top of it.

17) Take the unit out and fiddle with it if you want to see, again, if you can fix it to not have to bring it to the dealer with the new unit. You can plug it in and try the key without it being under the steering wheel. This is where my unit actually started working was when I had it out and just dangling and plugged in and key in the ignition. Darn good feeling!

Since mine has the pin, that alone actually holds it in place great, combined with the v-mount thing.

18) Plug in the new unit and slide it into place. It likely won’t work since the dealer claims you need to reprogram, but a test can’t hurt, can it?

19) Reverse install process

20) Get your car towed to the dealership, get the reprogramming done and cry that you just paid money so your car would let you drive it again...so tempermental!

One dealership I called, two people (combined 13 years experience) claim to have never hear of this, while the other dealership I called the guy has heard of it dozens of times. Both dealers suggested a low battery as the culprit, but as I tested it and it was more than fine, I started the replacement route.

Good luck in your replacement process and let me know if you have any questions! Off to an drive a hilly Ohio road to destress!


Last edited by technojorge; 02-22-2014 at 05:37 PM.



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•10-22-2013, 09:45 AM #2




Slasher
Slasher is offlineMember Slasher's Avatar Join DateOct 2010LocationNew JerseyPosts3,256





good stuff! i had this done under warranty a few years ago.
STICKY.



2006 V50 T5 AWD M66: 19" Heico's w/ Hankook & ISC Coilovers
IPD TCV, skidplate VIVA CBV, Prosport boost & AFR gauges, 6000k hid
ELEVATE: Turbo Pipe, RSB, autotech III, body kit, intake. IC piping
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•10-22-2013, 10:13 AM #3




TG
TG is offlineMember TG's Avatar Join DateFeb 2006LocationWestern PAPosts6,414





+1

I hope I won't ever have that problem but I know were to go if I do
Thanks for taking the time



T5 S40 Greg (05) > 1. 2. 3. | Kenwood interface |Viva 3"DP |EST exhaust |RICA stage 2+ |EST trust brace |Elevate sway bar |Bell black FMIC | intake pipe |IPD TCV |H&R 1.4 down |IPD front end-links |Focus tran mount |BERN 18x8 on Michelin pilot super sp 225x40 |Bilstein 8 SP struts and shocks |Powerslot rotors |StopTech 309 pads |Custom Boost gauge |Lettering relocation head+rear lights cut vinyl |



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•10-23-2013, 09:20 PM #4




EngTech
EngTech is offlineMember EngTech's Avatar Join DateJan 2007LocationKnight's of the Round Table - TNPosts8,185





Nice Details : should be Sticky +1

If I ever get this I'm doing in the Dealers Parking Lot : LOL : Changed a side Glass Window with the window Tray in Dealers Lot , because they said they might accidentally scratch or Break the Glass .
( They could cover it ) Really - what If You Dropped a 2 Lb. Hammer on the Car by Accident _ Guess they wouldn't cover that either .
LOL $12.95 later 40 min. all Done - Hey You guys have a place I can wash up ..



** V50 AWD - Handling & Performance Tweaks = New Stance / VW CC - Handling Tweaks - Testing & Porting - Intake Mods
A Garden Gate will Last You a Life Time . http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Eng...0Trim%20%20etc



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•10-24-2013, 07:15 PM #5




technojorge
technojorge is offlineJunior Member Join DateOct 2013LocationOhioPosts8





I'm glad I got some response on this. I figured most people would look at this and say "pssh, I don't have time to read all of that crap!" I suppose because its a write up though, length is probably better than brevity.

The pictures aren't a HUGE help since I took them upon doing the reverse install, but it'll help if anyone needs them. I'll try to add them this weekend when I get the time to upload them (if I even can yet as a junior member?).



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•10-21-2014, 06:31 AM #6




kwhumphreys
kwhumphreys is offlineJunior Member Join DateApr 2013LocationRedmond, WAPosts3





Thanks for the info. My C30 had the same "tic tic tic" and replacement went fine.
$130 to ship the part from tascaparts (over $200 at the dealer) and $180 at the dealer for the software install.
Price still hurts for something I wish I could just disable when it breaks, but better than paying over $600 for the dealer to fix it.

One tip for step 10: when removing/reinstalling the bottom half of the steering column cover, turn the wheel so that the larger space is at the bottom and the cover has more room to move. My wheel was there by chance when I removed the cover, but it took me a while to figure out how to get it back on...



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•11-16-2014, 01:23 AM #7




the_blaze
the_blaze is offlineJunior Member the_blaze's Avatar Join DateApr 2014LocationWest Jordan, UtahPosts305





I got the sheer bolts off but even when pushing in the button I can't get it to come out... thoughts? It's locked and nothing I have tried will unlock it. Should I be able to push that button in and just slide it out? Or do I have to get it to unlock first?



2011 V50 T5 / Elevate air filter/intake / Elevate 3" intake pipe/ Elevate 3" Down pipe/ Elevate 3" Cat back exhaust/ Elevate 2.5" charge pipe/ Elevate Tune/ Do88 FMIC/ Ford Focus E mount / Eibach Pro lowering springs / tint +1 unicorn power / sub +100HP / 19" TSW nurburgring wheels +98.5HP
(SOMEHOW IT'S STILL SLOW)



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•02-17-2016, 09:51 PM #8




avenger09123
avenger09123 is offlineMember Join DateNov 2015Posts2,399










Quote Originally Posted by the_blaze View Post

I got the sheer bolts off but even when pushing in the button I can't get it to come out... thoughts? It's locked and nothing I have tried will unlock it. Should I be able to push that button in and just slide it out? Or do I have to get it to unlock first?
So reviving a dead thread here, but my donor column has the same thing - the pin that locks the unit to the wall only goes about 1/8 of an inch in - not enough to slide it out of the column....thoughts?

Also side note - for the sheer bolts - I used a dremel cutting wheel and cut a not in them about 3/4 of the way deep and then a flatblade screwdriver unscrewed them with steady and even pressure. If I didn't cut deep enough the soft metal would just give way, so I had to cut enough so that the screwdriver would hit the steel outer casing of the screw.


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•12-05-2016, 05:51 PM #9




Duncstar
Duncstar is offlineJunior Member Join DateAug 2013Posts2





Great! you've just saved me about $1000 bucks. Once the unit was off and dangling there, the car started. Very happy feeling. - which made me think maybe I should just leave it off - then I got a 'key error' message and it again wouldn't start. Message has gone now after after a few attempts - it's obviously connected with the bung lock - when it finally worked I could hear the lock retracting with the key in the ii position.
A problem I had (same as a couple of comments above), I could not slide the unit out because the pin cannot be pushed in. It appears that when the unit's jammed in the unlock position the pin's stuck too. I had to force apart the metal section that the unit's attached too. Was easy enough, prying with large screwdriver and then some taps with a hammer to slide it off, but it looks a bit mangled. I should be able to bend it mostly back in shape.
Extremely grateful that you went to the trouble of writing this all those years ago, you've saved me serious money.

[theracingame]

Hi everyone, many thanks for this... I had a bit of a hairy moment with my V50 (2006), and it was only after finding this did I try the "tapping the lock method". One thing to suggest is that there is a small opening behind the steering column lock lever - there's no need to remove any panels, and I ended up using a hammer to bang at it to get it going.

It was fine for months, but the second time (ironically) it failed was in my local garage. Had to explain to them on the phone how to get it going again, which they eventually managed to do.

Enough was enough, and the reason for this post. I'm not the most savvy mechanic out there (lightbulbs are about my limit, maybe an air filter if I'm feeling a little lary), so booked it in to my local stealership for repairs. They told me on the phone that there'd be a "diagnostic charge" of £168, despite the fact I'd explained the problem, and the solution (thanks to you guys 🥂!) Appointments were difficult, so a 2 week wait was in order for my appointment.

Installation and programming totalled the bill to £645. They waived the diagnostic charge, not even mentioning it when I paid for the repair, and now I have a new steering lock. The part was available and installed within 1 day, and I'm just glad it's over. A massive con, but there's nothing like the anxiety of worrying your car won't start one day, and the trusty hammer won't work.

Thanks so much again everyone for your help! I did find some eBay listings for a device that can bypass the steering lock to avoid the problem altogether... I wonder if anyone's had any experience with those?

[Pete-V70 D5 2003]

[QUOTE=theracingame;2846330]Hi everyone, many thanks for this... I had a bit of a hairy moment with my V50 (2006), and it was only after finding this did I try the "tapping the lock method".

The car is a right royal PITA. You should have just disconnected the lock and cable tied it to the column. That said getting the shear bolts off is a couple of hours slow work too.

I got rid of mine (2010 - V50DrivE) recently and after a 1001 issues, mainly with dodgy wiring, CEM etc putting up random lights, if it aint broke dont fix it. My finall cure for wiring issues, having cleaned all cntacts etc over the years, was to pull out fuse 28 under the bonnet (try to start car, it wont, and then put the cleaned fuse back in) never had a wiring issue again, beyond anew glow plug light, which was a new one. We are mechanics so it wasnt quite so bad as having to use dealers. Never again. I shoulda kept my 2003 V70 D5...a dream car.

[phil01825]

Had this problem recently on my 2009 V50.

I used a dremil with a cutting wheel to cut slots in the heads of the security bolts and a stubby flat head screwdriver to remove them. I tied the lock out of the way and left it alone.

I fitted a push start button under the dash and wired it via a fuse direct from the battery then on to the starter motor. Now I just put the ignition switch to position 2 and use the push button to start.