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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars

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1961 Volvo PV544 in Holland

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Old Aug 21st, 2018, 15:32   #371
Army
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Default The problem with symmetry...

...is that after you've welded brackets on one rear wing there's another one waiting for the same treatment.

It all adds to the Ground Hog day effect.

Still it does give you a chance to think "hmmm perhaps I'll be a little bit more careful next time I apply the seam sealant"!

Here's the RH wing in ferpox after seam sealant around the new brackets



And here's the twin - the LH side - with new brackets that are more or less in equivalent positions (WOW - hey - effort - measurements were made!) and in Eastwood rust encapsulator ready for the next "could do better" seam sealant attempt tomorrow

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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!)
1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project
1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build
1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works!
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Old Aug 21st, 2018, 18:37   #372
SaabPilot
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Smile

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Originally Posted by Army View Post
Thanks for the kind words
You're most welcome. I appreciate the effort you are putting in publishing all this. I know firsthand that that costs about as much time as actually working on the car. I really love reading this and the pictures are a fantastic boon.

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Originally Posted by Army View Post
For some reason or other the user name "Saabpilot" rings a bell - are you on other forums with that name?
Well that and barge pilot. Barge pilot I made up after I found myself owning a Range Rover P38.

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Originally Posted by Army View Post
(And yes - after all that Volvo cleaning - I'm getting ready for some serious Land Rover series challenges such as Birmabright welding and hammering out that effing bulkhead)
I'm summoning the will power to weld my bulkhead, but posts on the Katterug or the Series; I find them equally motivating to proceed on restoring the rear quarter panels, which were hard to find but that someone somehow dug out of an English field for me.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2018, 10:30   #373
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SaabPilot View Post
You're most welcome. I appreciate the effort you are putting in publishing all this. I know firsthand that that costs about as much time as actually working on the car. I really love reading this and the pictures are a fantastic boon.



Well that and barge pilot. Barge pilot I made up after I found myself owning a Range Rover P38.



I'm summoning the will power to weld my bulkhead, but posts on the Katterug or the Series; I find them equally motivating to proceed on restoring the rear quarter panels, which were hard to find but that someone somehow dug out of an English field for me.
Barge Pilot - I know where to find Barge Pilot - good to see you here too.
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!)
1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project
1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build
1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works!
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Old Aug 22nd, 2018, 10:33   #374
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Default Colour

Still a bit of a problem.

The original colour isn't growing on me:



What do you all think about it - apart from a few paint corrections this is how it will look
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File Type: jpg 1961 Volvo pv544 under side boot lid in fawn brown.JPG (124.6 KB, 51 views)
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!)
1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project
1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build
1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works!
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Old Aug 22nd, 2018, 10:42   #375
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Nice color. 👍🏻 What is that? Tan?
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Old Aug 22nd, 2018, 10:43   #376
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I know what you mean, but it does look better on a whole car.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2018, 11:09   #377
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No, I meant it. It looks way better than red.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2018, 11:11   #378
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Code is 72 - Fawn Brown

According to the Dutch club I'm a member of it is quite a rare colour which is why I took a fair amount of time and effort getting someone to mix it for me. In the newer base coat + clear computer system is doesn't / didn't exist so I got someone to mix the colour adjusting from the computer code for the single coat version...
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!)
1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project
1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build
1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works!
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Old Aug 22nd, 2018, 11:13   #379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaabPilot View Post
No, I meant it. It looks way better than red.
Anything is better than that patchy original red - I think the 155 code red is far too new for the PV shape. If I were to go for a red I'd go for the deeper 46 (Robin Red that nearly every PV is painted in!)
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!)
1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project
1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build
1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works!
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Old Aug 22nd, 2018, 16:35   #380
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Default Some notes about welding sheet metal

The lower corner of my right hand front wing had rusted away. The bolt that goes into the centre front (radiator support) panel was rusted solid so I just ripped it out when I pulled the car to bits.

[Take no prisoners]

Now it is time to fix the rust and the additional damage I made.

The direction I chose today isn't a particularly easy route. I decided to weld on the corner of a bend that was partly there. This can go seriously wrong - so I thought I'd show the method I used to keep everything together.

Please note - an excessive amount of filler rod was used in this repair! An excessive amount of filler rod in structural welding is, more often than not, considered to be an undesirable form of welding. Filling in holes with shed loads of filler material on structural parts is not a good plan. This is just a corner of a thin metal body panel. In this case I'm not especially worried about the properties of the steel I add to the mix.

(You should bear this in mind if you are welding pressure containers or box sections of steel or nuclear reactors but in this case flouncing about wasting gas and adding in blobs of filler isn't going to be a problem - other than the self inflicted cost and time spent in said flouncing about)

[OK lecture over-ish]

In the picture below I've already marked out the rough shape of the metal I need to add and figured out where the fixing hole goes



Note I'm using a hole punch to make the ends of the oval fixing hole - nice clean edges - and round ones too instead of an oval edge that it more likely to happen with a drill bit (although I can post a link to a chap called AvE on youtoob who shows a method of drilling round holes in sheet metal if you like)

The next picture shows the new metal lying in its new position. The masking tape is important! It gives the correct angle for the repair patch - it shows the original position. Cutting this straight is important as the rest of the metal along the bend in the panel needs to be cut away - there's a chance that the bend will bend during cutting as you are removing the rigidity of the edge...



...so you need to keep the reference point on the new bit of metal so that the carefully cut shape of the original curved edge helps you make sure that it all lines up.

That explanation might be as clear as mud - so in the following picture you can see what's been cut =>



1) The straight edge where the masking tape in the previous picture was helps orientate the new metal.

2) The curved part of the original panel has been trimmed to the corner / edge and no longer has much rigidity - this is a potential disaster waiting to happen!

#########

My method from here on is to tack in blobs of filler metal holding the repair patch in place.

I'm working from the reference point - the straight edge where the masking tape once was



In principle it is possible to blob your way all the way along the joint. In a way that is what I did but you have to remember that just because you add a new blob next to an old blob (and that blob glows red) it does not mean the blobs are joined up.

You must - even though there's a chance you'll blow a hole in the metal in doing so - join up the blobs properly by welding through.

You need to make continuous welds through your tacks!

If you don't you have left lots of designer cracks all along your joint.

After some considerable messing about you can eventually reach the stage where you can grind away the excessive filler material you've pain stakingly added to the joint. Finishing off with a scrubbing disc =>



Today I've gotten as far as this =>



It isn't 100% beautiful.

It isn't in the same class as the work done by the good people on www.metalmeet.com but it is strong and functional. If I wanted a perfect finish I'd probably have to spend the same amount of time again filling in the holes with weld - grinding away the underside of the repair and panel beating the shape the fraction of millimeters needed to make it an invisible repair.

I'm of the opinion that there's an occasion for very very thinly applied body filler and this could be one of them! The thickness of the filler over this repair would be way less than 1mm - I'm calling that good enough.

I finished off the oval slot for the attachment bolt by breaking out the Dremel and a thin cutting disc

__________________
1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!)
1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project
1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build
1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works!

Last edited by Army; Aug 22nd, 2018 at 16:42.
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