1961 Volvo PV544 in Holland

[Army]

Just a quick note to show how easy it is to fit the bushings



I was about to make a version of the special tool by butchering the old king pin and turning it into a drift when I thought "Oh F - it give it a quick go in the vice and see what happens - those bushings aren't all that expensive"!



They went in nice and easy

Still awaiting an adjustable reamer - when that turns up I'll crack on (!)

[Army]

Pictures for a different thread

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=292055

Storing them here so I can find them again if need be

[Army]

(Probably mentioned before) The plan for the fuse box is to stick it high up in the passenger foot well.

I don't really want to screw too many things through the firewall / bulkhead so I'm making up some sort of structure that can hold everything nicely in place (and allow the whole unit to be unplugged in a modular fashion so things can be added or repaired)

To start off I was thinking along the lines of a simple flat plate onto which Delrin spacers would be cut to allow space for the wires behind the fuse box and relay holders =>





I ended up deciding that that would probably be too wobbly so I've gone for a more complicated (why not?) folded sheet metal solution

Not quite sure how it will end up but at the moment as it is being designed on the fly,

Still with rubber grommets a go go I'm sure summit will 'appen in the end.







Each of the bunches of wires that are threaded through the box section have a collective grouping such as "wires for items that are always connected to the battery"; "wires that are going to go through either of two relays big for the ignition"; "ground / earth wires for relay switches"; "wires from the top row of fuses" etc etc etc

#########

I'm satisfied and happy with the OTT circuit arrangements so far.

I'm certain it doesn't normally get done this way - still what you expect when you let a rigger play with electrickery...

[Army]

Taking a lot longer than I hoped - still there is a bit of progress (despite life getting in the way of more important car related stuff)

I've had to fit - cut - adjust - remove the wiring from the custom fuse box many many more times than I would have liked. But I think I'm pretty close to fitting it all for the last time.

Because the shape I wanted wasn't easy to bend out of one piece I opted to spot weld on some side extensions =>



Grommets back in again for a final trial fit =>



After this fit I realised I needed to extend some wires. Instead of soldering bits together I opted to remove sections and start again (but this time with longer wire lengths)



Stripped again and ready for the last touch up bits of welding =>



Once the last of the welding has been done I'm going to spray it in etch primer (so paint sticks to the Zincor) and paint it black

(I see a red car and I want to paint it black - no colours any more...)

[Army]

More pictures for the other thread again

[Army]

...because the planets haven't aligned for the more complicated stuff just yet.

I've got delays with the wiring cos I'm waiting for paint to dry

I've got delays with the king pin bushings because I can't find a long enough reamer to go through the upper and lower bushings so the 'ole gets to be perfectly aligned. I might have to visit a machine shop after all - but never say die!

So to keep up a false pretence of progress I did a few bits and bobs. One of which was the fuel filler pipe which has been hanging about awaiting some de-rusting for about a year =>



It is a bit of hot galvanised steel that's gone a little bit rusty

Angle grinder and wire brush attachment...



...then again my favourite cold galvanising spray - Zinga



After a couple more coats in the next few days - job done - bit saved

#####

In other news I found a really cheap alternative for the foot dimmer switch. Most places want about 20 to 40 euros for a foot dimmer switch.

The expensive ones could be worth the money (I do expect quality from Hella for example) - I don't know if what I have found is good (or not) yet - but at just under 9 euros I reckon it is worth a spin if the original one doesn't come up trumps like I hope it will.



Brand = Merit
Made in Malta

Anyone come across these before?

[Army]

I've got a bit of crimp related problem.

For thicker wires I've got some ring connectors that are very different from the non insulated versions I've been using so far =>



I asked at the place where I bought then and they're unsure whether I'm meant to solder these connectors onto wires or if I can crimp them. (Typical eh?) The problem remains I've got some 6mm^2 and 10mm^2 cables that need some gucci connectors on their ends...

...I get the impression from the interweb this type of "DIN" connector is meant to be crimped by a half moon shape on one side and two pointy teeth on the other side. The crimping pliers for this type are seriously effing expensive (about 130 - 200 euros for the pliers) so I want to be sure before I go that way...

...for larger wires such as say the battery cables a hexagon shape crimp seems to be used. The crimping tools for this hexagon shape seems to be widely and cheaply available on the bay of ee for example (at about 30 - 50 euros for a hydraulic piece of rubbish)

####

I have a feeling I might want to go for the cheap ebay solution but thought I'd ask before plunging on in there (as usual)

Any thoughts?

Anyone here been here before?

[Ron Kwas]

Army;

That crimp is a quality crimp (denoted by continuous, brazed barrel, opposed to an unconnected barrel common on inexpensive small gauge crimps, these don't contain the compression forces, but splay open, leading to poor connections or even separation/pull-out).
...a few more notes...
That terminal can be crimped (successfully ONLY with the acceptable tool/dies, which either circumferentially compress or made a single dimple, both are acceptable given proper prep, execution and post inspection of crimping operation). See: http://www.sw-em.com/Wiring%20Notes....a_Proper_Crimp ) and I recommend applying ACZP to wire-strands before inserting into barrel for the actual crimping operation, OR soldered (really preferred as it makes a Gas-Tight-Joint pretty much the best in terms of an electrical connection, and also impervious to external environmental attack!), using non-corrosive (suitable for electronics) flux, and lead based solder (Yes! See: http://www.sw-em.com/Wiring%20Notes.htm#Soldering_Notes), using a properly sized iron (nothing less than 100W for an 8ga. situation)...using flame is possible, but touchy as a lot of experience is required to get a good result and not burn up things in the process...

Cheers

[Derek UK]

Maybe a tool like this but if you ask around at electrical engineering places you might find someone who will do them on the spot for a drink.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/311422229984?chn=ps

[Army]

Originally Posted by Ron Kwas

Army;

That crimp is a quality crimp (denoted by continuous, brazed barrel, opposed to an unconnected barrel common on inexpensive small gauge crimps, these don't contain the compression forces, but splay open, leading to poor connections or even separation/pull-out).
...a few more notes...
That terminal can be crimped (successfully ONLY with the acceptable tool/dies, which either circumferentially compress or made a single dimple, both are acceptable given proper prep, execution and post inspection of crimping operation). See: http://www.sw-em.com/Wiring%20Notes....a_Proper_Crimp ) and I recommend applying ACZP to wire-strands before inserting into barrel for the actual crimping operation, OR soldered (really preferred as it makes a Gas-Tight-Joint pretty much the best in terms of an electrical connection, and also impervious to external environmental attack!), using non-corrosive (suitable for electronics) flux, and lead based solder (Yes! See: http://www.sw-em.com/Wiring%20Notes.htm#Soldering_Notes), using a properly sized iron (nothing less than 100W for an 8ga. situation)...using flame is possible, but touchy as a lot of experience is required to get a good result and not burn up things in the process...

Cheers

Thanks Ron

So far I've been using this type of open connector =>



The pins on the underside of the fuse box and the pins for the relays don't come in a closed type (as far as I can tell). I've got a good quality crimp tool for them...

...it looks like I need to get a good quality tool.

Originally Posted by Derek UK

Maybe a tool like this but if you ask around at electrical engineering places you might find someone who will do them on the spot for a drink.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/311422229984?chn=ps

Thanks Derek - I have read that the hexagonal version of this tool makes a nicer and stronger connection. If I'm not mistaken the tool linked above is for much thicker battery cable (from about say 25mm^2 - may be from 16mm^2?)

As usual it looks like I'm buying both of the options I was considering!