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Broken Subframe Bolt

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Old Jul 2nd, 2018, 16:03   #1
AidXC90
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Unhappy Broken Subframe Bolt

I'm in big trouble here!!!

I managed to lower my D5's subframe yesterday and removed the steering rack. That part of the job was very difficult but successful in the end.
But the left-hand front subframe mount bolt (UK pasenger's side) sheared off just at the start of the threads. Apparently this is fairly common, I'm discovering!
None of the bolt is extending past the chassis locating nipple. So I rushed off to Machine Mart this morning to get a set of bolt extractors, but on reading up on them and watching YouTube videos of how best to use them, it seems they can often fail by breaking off inside the bolt themselves. Since they are hardened steel, you can't drill into them to get them out, so then you've only made the problem worse. Maybe there is a technique to using them where you can avoid tha happening, like "go real slow" or something?

The car is now imobile so I can't even take it to an engineering workshop to get specialist work. It's up to me to fix this problem.

So, can anyone advise on the best way to remove something as stubborn as a subframe bolt which has probably corroded above the chassis in an inaccessible position, i.e. working only from below? I really need and would appreciate the forum's help on this!

Thanks
Aidan
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Old Jul 2nd, 2018, 17:57   #2
aland
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I'd suggest a decent set of sharp metal drill bits and progressively drill larger until the wall of the remains of the bolt is thin enough to bend out. A small round file will be useful at this stage also.
This all assumes you can get the first drill reasonably central to start with. A center-punch may help here.

You can get reverse drill-bits which aim to try to encourage the remaining bolt to loosen as you go - if you can get these (and sharp ones!) then even better.

If you can safely get some heat onto the remaining stub it would help - but probably not be a good idea under there!
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Old Jul 2nd, 2018, 18:08   #3
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Thanks very much for all that advice aland.
I'd sort of decided to go with the progressively larger drill bits idea as I dread the thought of having an extractor snapping off in there, so your ideas reaffirmed mine.

The anti-clockwise drill bits are a good idea too, so I'll go shopping for those, and I might also get a set of tapping bits or whatever they're called to remove the rest of the bits of bolt thread from the hole. That way I hope to ensure I can use the proper Volvo subframe bolts again in an undamaged hole.

Thanks again for the advice. Nice to know that I wasn't the only one thinking like that .

Aidan
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Old Jul 2nd, 2018, 21:57   #4
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Agree with the advice you have been given - long slow drilling out processes. You need the best quality drill bits and 15 minutes getting th3 pilot hole exactly central will save you hour later.

I would also get a scrap bolt and cut 3 or 4 flutes down its length and use that to make good the old threads and get all the old bolt/ compound out (or buy the right tap).

I personally wouldn’t have a problem driving the car very gently to a workshop with just 3 bolts in.
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Old Jul 2nd, 2018, 23:01   #5
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I know it's not the subframe bolt.... but I had a similar issue with our garden swing chair cover... left the bolts in over the winter and one got rusted in.
Long story short drilled out starting small to big the ran a tap down to recut the threads worked a charm.
Mind it was an M8 thread.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2018, 00:32   #6
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Aaaargh - nightmare!

There are pros out there that will travel to you and remove the bolt. You might want to consider using them before you make the job worse or even impossible
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Old Jul 3rd, 2018, 19:28   #7
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Well, I tried about 4 travelling professionals and none want to do the job because it's not on a ramp. So I'm going to do it myself.
I've got some centre punches and reverse drill bits coming tomorrow, and I'm also going to get some cobalt drill bits as they're harder and were recommended to me by a guy who specializes in removing anti-theft wheel nuts - not in the dead of night, but a proper chap.
His advice confirms the advice of others on this forum: centre-punch dead centre, drill progressively larger holes, lots of 3 in 1 oil to cool and lubricate the tips, have several bits to hand, drill slowly with not much pressure, drill dead straight (easily done lying on your back!) be VERY patient, once drilled all the way through as large a hole as is safe without touching the hole's threads, try to collapse the remaining bolt threads with a punch or similar and use a tap or old bolt to ream out the hole.
So I hope to have the job done by the end of Thursday, and I'll let you know how it goes, with pictures if I get them to work this time.

Aidan
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Old Jul 3rd, 2018, 20:04   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AidXC90 View Post
Well, I tried about 4 travelling professionals and none want to do the job because it's not on a ramp. So I'm going to do it myself.
I've got some centre punches and reverse drill bits coming tomorrow, and I'm also going to get some cobalt drill bits as they're harder and were recommended to me by a guy who specializes in removing anti-theft wheel nuts - not in the dead of night, but a proper chap.
His advice confirms the advice of others on this forum: centre-punch dead centre, drill progressively larger holes, lots of 3 in 1 oil to cool and lubricate the tips, have several bits to hand, drill slowly with not much pressure, drill dead straight (easily done lying on your back!) be VERY patient, once drilled all the way through as large a hole as is safe without touching the hole's threads, try to collapse the remaining bolt threads with a punch or similar and use a tap or old bolt to ream out the hole.
So I hope to have the job done by the end of Thursday, and I'll let you know how it goes, with pictures if I get them to work this time.

Aidan
dont forget overalls goggles .hot swarf not much fun hope it all goes well keep us posted
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Old Jul 4th, 2018, 00:00   #9
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Good luck!
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Old Jul 4th, 2018, 00:14   #10
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You have the B@LLS of a Tiger........

Good luck !
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