Engine: 2.3 F/Inj B23E/B230F: B23A to B230FT conversion

[240ratrod]

classicswede:

When will you be getting these back in stock:

RHD 240 turbo 2.5 inch down pipe - Product Code: 240T-DP

https://www.classicswede.co.uk/RHD_2..._14303337.aspx


How severe is the crush bent lower 45 degree bend?
I had planned to build a mandrel bent 2.5" down pipe myself but you can't beat that price.
Thanks, Matt.

[classicswede]

Originally Posted by 240ratrod

classicswede:

When will you be getting these back in stock:

RHD 240 turbo 2.5 inch down pipe - Product Code: 240T-DP

https://www.classicswede.co.uk/RHD_2..._14303337.aspx


How severe is the crush bent lower 45 degree bend?
I had planned to build a mandrel bent 2.5" down pipe myself but you can't beat that price.
Thanks, Matt.

Changed supplier for the downpipes as many customers who read everything on the internet were offended by the crush bending. I have just had the first sample of the mandrel bent pipes and once I have done a trail fit they will go into production

[classicswede]

On the note of intercooler is your donor car AC or non AC. If without AC the intercooler and hosing will all fit into the 240

[Bugjam1999]

Your car looks cool! I like it.

Couple of things to add:

I'd highly recommend either a custom loom as suggested above or a complete loom from a late Volvo 240, when I converted mine I spent a long and frustrating time messing about with the wiring creating a loom from the engine bay section of a late 240 loom and the ecu plug from a 940... not recommended. Unless you really like wiring, take one of the two options above. Chasing electrical faults is frustrating and time consuming.

Your car is early enough that i think the bonnet slam panel will unbolt, remove this before removing the engine it makes things a lot easier. If the slam panel is spotwelded in place, drill those spotwelds out and replace them with bolts to make the slam panel removable.

My 2.5inch downpipe is in place with the steering column in it's normal orientation and the oil to water exchanger from the 940 in place - there isn't loads of space, but it's doable.

Have the cylinderhead skimmed whilst you have the head off the turbo engine to replace the head gasket. Cheap and easy to do when it's in pieces already.

I drove my car with the T cam for a while, then swapped to an A cam - it's a noticeable difference but it isn't night and day. If you're short of time - remember you'll have to reshim the new cam - then leave that for now.

Swapping the aux cam into the engine isn't hard, this youtube video is a bit faffy but covers it. Look at about 18mins for the gear for the oil pump being removed from the second engine, they missed that bit with the first engine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D738ZeOBIcI

Replace the oil separator as part of the engine refresh.

Note - your local volvo dealer can get all the seals, gaskets, parts you need. I'm on first name terms with the guy at the parts counter at mine remember the reg number for the 940 to make ordering turbo engine parts easier.

I'll probably think of something else soon enough... good luck!

Cheers

[Bugjam1999]

Another thing- the 940 intercooler with top entry and exit pipes will bolt straight in using radiator intercooler mounts from a 240 turbo as that’s the intercooler the 240 turbos got, the 940 pipework fits just fine. I bought 240 mounts from eBay.com, but the conversion rate was better in 2015 so that might be more expensive now.

The mid entry mid exit intercooler will also fit, but you’ll need to weld some brackets for it - which is easy, but a bit faffy if you need someone else to weld for you. The standard 940 pipework will fit this too.

Or go for something bigger... Isuzu npr intercoolers bolt in fine apparently but they’re hard to find in the Uk, I’ve heard that an Iveco eurocargo intercooler will fit but have only seen pictures, not one in person.

Cheers.

[240ratrod]

Yes they are 17" Peugeot/Citroen steel wheels, banded 3in at the rear and 2in at the front. With Peugeot van centre caps.
I went yellow to match the prancing moose sticker.

The car is lowered on custom GAZ adjustable coilovers.

I was planning on measuring the available space and buying a universal intercooler to fit. I can make some brackets to mount and the associated pipework. If I find something from another car which works I may go that route but I fancy a shiny new one!

On another note I've read that the CBV can leak so I thought I'd fabricate a blanking plate and install an external recirculation type valve.
OR I've found the valves that can recirculate, dump to atmos. or do a combination of both. Installing the latter way should please the MAF and still give some nice noises. Thoughts?

With mine being an auto I won't get the lift off tssh on gearchange as the throttle doesn't close creating vacuum on shift. But throttle lift off will still work. Yes?

Also looking at getting an electronic dual stage boost controller.
I've got this idea of having a 'sport' switch on the dash, bare with me.
Activating the switch would engage the DSBC upping the boost from 7psi to 10-12psi. It would also open an exhaust bypass valve.
That way I can have a standard mode which would be quiet and put less stress on the engine, or sport mode which gives me a nice rumble and full boost.

[Bugjam1999]

cool - I'd go for big steelies if I didn't already have wheels I'm happy with. I doubt you'll struggle with traction issues with rear tyres that wide, even with a turbo engine

Of course there are aftermarket options available, but to get up and running as quickly as possible with minimal fuss, then the 940 intercooler you already have will fit... the pipework you have from the 940 will most likely fit an aftermarket intercooler too, you'll just need the right sized silicone joiners.

The CBV can leak, but it's a simple gasket to change if it is leaking. My approach would be to get the engine in and running before changing things like the CBV for a BOV etc. You may find that the existing noise is loud enough actually - it's muted considerably by the 940 airbox, with a cone filter and the boost turned up my car makes a nice 'tssh' on lift off, especially at higher revs. If you want turbo flutter noises etc. then you'll want to do something more, but like I said - I'd try and get the engine in the car and running before messing with it. If you have everything running well and change things one at a time, it's a lot easier to fault find

The two stage boost switch has been done before, have a look on turbobricks. I seem to recall that the change wasn't instant though as the ecu had to learn the new boost settings all over again each time, which defeats the purpose really. Don't quote me on that though, I haven't looked into it much. Same as above though, I'd get the engine in and running with the boost as it is now, before fitting a MBC. That'll give you a chance to sort out any running niggles before any new issues get thrown into the mix.

Just my approach to things.

Cheers.

[240ratrod]

Yeah I've read the good thing about the LH 2.4 is it's ability to learn and adapt for mods.

Hadn't considered though that changing the boost level would mess the maps up. That's a good bit of advice and maybe I'll just stick a MBC (once installed) and not try to be a smart arse!

With not being able to much right now my brain is thinking of all sorts of things I want to do....maybe the old walk before you run phrase is apt here!

Yesterday I had some start issues, as in it wouldn't run (the 240). Once it cooled down it fired up fine. I think it's telling me it needs to pulled out and the conversion started! I found some shocking wiring in there...the coolant sensor on the head had no sheathing on the wire at all! There are some others very bad connections too so looks my loom has succumbed to the volvo rot!

Based on " get the engine in and running" thought, I'm thinking of doing some basic maintenance like plugs and leads, cambelt, cam cover gasket, oil filter and then installing. Changing the water pump, HG, for example, would be an easily accessible job down the line if needed.

There are no known or visible issues on the B230 and when I start I need to have a running car ASAP. Mods can be done one at a time as suggested with the engine in and running.

[mylittletony]

Originally Posted by classicswede

Changed supplier for the downpipes as many customers who read everything on the internet were offended by the crush bending. I have just had the first sample of the mandrel bent pipes and once I have done a trail fit they will go into production

Considering I was one of your customers who was definitely offended by the bends on the downpipe I bought, I'm intrigued (and trying not to be offended by) what you mean about "reading everything on the internet"?

[classicswede]

Reading and believing everything you read on the internet.

Don't get me wrong in theory a mandrel bent system is better and flow rates are higher. In real world situations are mandrel bends the be all and end all then teh answer is no.

Where you have mandrel bends butt jointed to pipes this tends to create a situation worse than a crush bend. Where the joint has a slight step this sends reverse direction shock waves into the exhaust gas stream. Very few mandrel bent systems use correct lap joints that remove that problem.

There is a interesting video on youtube showing dyno tests of a exhaust manifold all nicely bent and then the results after hammering dents into it and then more dents. The dents on this engine gave better results than without! Would that happen on every engine? Certain to say no but what it does go to show is if you want to extract every last possible bit of power you need dyno time and sometimes try teh unlikely.


BTW that downpipe has been fitted on another car (customer collected teh pipe in person and shown the exessive crush) and has made some good results on the dyno. Would it be better with a better made downpipe? Who knows without back to back dyno testing.

I am much happier with the new downpipes but with a RHD car and the factory manifold the flow is never going to be ideal