Amazon: tuning a b18a

[Alf ista]

Hey Gareth. I like the sound of what you are planning. Looking forward to seeing how it works out for you. All the way to Scotland for an overdrive box, does sound tempting alright.
Hugh.

[Burdekin]

Hi Gareth,

No worries and a trip to Scotland from Ireland would be a nice trip.

The electronic ignition like a 123 distributor is a good idea and like the steel timing set adds a bit more reliability especially if using it as a daily driver.

How about new water pump and oil pump? For the same reasons as above.

Good air filter is a must. More clean air in the better...

That's about all I can think of for the engine but you should notice really nice improvements. Don't forget to post pics and thoughts as you go along.

Have you looked at suspension, steering and brake improvemeents or are these all fine? Just a few ideas but some of this depends on how you drive the car.

How about a set of progressive coil springs? I'd go progressive springs over single springs with sway bars, reason being progressive springs will be better under hard braking. Sway bars allow you to run softer springs for a better ride but soft springs are not ideal under heavy braking and front sway bars can also induce understeer so that's why I would tend to go for progressive springs. If you're having sway bars have lite ones. Front sway bars will improve rear grip but not too stiff. New shocks and bushes? Are the wheels the original width? Then check suspension and steering geometry is all set correctly.

Front disc brakes?

Just my thought anyway...

[redcar]

lol, only one project at a time

suspension and wheels are definately on the cards, but she handles pretty well now and the tyres are nearly new, so maybe next summer...

[Burdekin]

Turbo running 14psi boost...

[80sRich]

EDIT
Post no longer relevant. Thanks Mitch!

[redcar]

Originally Posted by 80sRich

EDIT
Post no longer relevant. Thanks Mitch!

nah, we're still talking B18A's here.

i got a call from the engineers on friday and he recommends replacing the valves in the cylinder head i bought. had a look about and there's a few sizes available..

now, i've heard talk of putting bigger valves in to increase flow. is this on the exhaust side only, or both? can this be done on a b18? i'm just thinking of the diameters here. how much room is there in a head to go with larger valves? if so, which ones are the recommended size?

sorry for all the questions, but it's monday and i'm on coffee no.3 already...

regards,

Gareth

[Burdekin]

Hi Gareth,

KG Trimning's stage two head has 44 x 37mm valves. 44 x 37 or 44 x 36 seem like good choices from the info you've given. Check with your man that these sizes will fit with hardened exhaust seats before deciding though. This may require you to do some deshrouding on the combustion chamber wall though? What compression ratio are you looking at running?

Check your valve stem sizes as well as I think B18 are different to B20, just in case you were buying B20 valves.

I've got some info on calculating valve shrouding clearances at home if you're interested I can e-mail that tomorrow?

[Burdekin]

Hi Gareth,

I was thinking a bit more about size of valves last night and I'm not sure how larger valves will match the D cam you've got. Any advice guys?

I would say if staying with the D cam maybe it's best to keep the valves standard. Larger valves should be matched with quite a bit of head work and a hotter cam. Larger inlet valves normally mean more top end power and you may loose low end performance which for a daily drive is where you want it. So maybe my advice yesterday wasn't the best for the situation!?

I know V performance in the states do a larger exhaust valve in their stage 1 head but this is with a fair bit of head work and me personally I'd increase inlet before exhaust and wouldn't increase exhaust without increasing inlet.

Hopefully some other guys with experience with the D cam can give you an opinion of the way to go with regard to larger valves with the D cam...

Cheers,

Mitch

[redcar]

hi Mitch,

i was actually discussing this exact point with the engineer last night and he came to the same conclusion.. go with standard valves unless you are preparing the car for race, or rally. there's a lot more to the airflow dynamics, cams, ignition, etc that need to be taken into consideration when approaching this kind of procedure. which is not the result i'm looking to achieve anyway.

basically he said that with the new cam, the polished ports and a larger exhaust, i should see a significant increase in power, which should keep me quiet for a while...

[classicswede]

If doing a unleaded conversion to the head you will need to use B20 valaves as the IPD valve quides are only available for B20. Inlet valve wise I would sugest you use the std B20E inlet valve as that is matched to the D cam. Exhaust valve wise they are know for being under sized so doing from the original 35 to 37mm is always a good move especialy if running uleaded. Again if you decide that you want to fit hardened valve seats only ever do the exhaust side on a B18 head. Cutting the head for a hardened insert on the inlet side can break into the water jacket and render the head scrap and wasted money on teh rest of teh head work.