Shortening Front Shock Absorbers

APItom · Oct 14th, 2013, 11:46

Hi all,

I helped my mate fit some lowering springs over the weekend and re-filled his shocks with 85/140 gear oil and now they're stiff as **** now.
But when coming to refit the struts with the 75mm lowered spring fitted, there is a massive amount of play between top and bottom spring cups when the car is up in the air. Un-captive is the word being thrown around.

Without spending massive amounts of dough I've heard a few cowboy ways to keep the springs in place.. such as:

1. drill a hole in top and bottom cups and lock-wire the springs in place. (not too keen on this one as the lock-wire would need to be insanely strong)

2. shorten the shocks piston rod and re-tap the thread to the necessary height. (also not too keen as that would surely reduce the damping)

3. put donut spacers / shims on the one side of the top spring cup to push the cup into place. (can't fault this idea.. but that's because I haven't seen it physically in front of me so I don't know if its actually possible)

Bearing in mind this is a toy so it wont be undergoing track scrutineering / road car MOT tests.... which of the three options would you choose and why?

Any answers will do. Just keep them relative please.

NI_Volvo_Nut · Oct 14th, 2013, 13:11

If its not going for MOT then why worry?

If you're worried about the spring moving, weld it to the bottom plate?

classicswede · Oct 14th, 2013, 18:15

options

1) fit correct shortened dampers
2) machine the damper stem down in a collet lathe, a 3 jaw will damage the stem and make it useless.
3) weld the top bearing into the top cup and use jubilee clips to hold the springs in top and bottom. The weld on the top bearing will crack well before the hose clips give way

APItom · Oct 29th, 2013, 11:42

Ok so having just bought a 340 for myself and after helping my mate do his front shocks, i'll be looking to get mine through an MOT next year.

So my question now is... will the shortened shocks get the car through an MOT combined with the shortened springs?

Basically I would just like to know whether the MOT tester is going to fail me for having no tension on the spring whilst the car is up in the air.

Sorry if this seems like i'm being difficult but I just want some peace of mind before I splash out on some custom shocks!!

Thanks

classicswede · Oct 29th, 2013, 12:01

Off you are fitting both classic swede springs and dampers then the spring will be held in place. That way it is totally safe and will pass the mot.

Oct 14th, 2013, 11:46	#1
APItom New Member Last Online: Oct 30th, 2013 13:38 Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Harbury, Warwickshire	Shortening Front Shock Absorbers Hi all, I helped my mate fit some lowering springs over the weekend and re-filled his shocks with 85/140 gear oil and now they're stiff as **** now. But when coming to refit the struts with the 75mm lowered spring fitted, there is a massive amount of play between top and bottom spring cups when the car is up in the air. Un-captive is the word being thrown around. Without spending massive amounts of dough I've heard a few cowboy ways to keep the springs in place.. such as: 1. drill a hole in top and bottom cups and lock-wire the springs in place. (not too keen on this one as the lock-wire would need to be insanely strong) 2. shorten the shocks piston rod and re-tap the thread to the necessary height. (also not too keen as that would surely reduce the damping) 3. put donut spacers / shims on the one side of the top spring cup to push the cup into place. (can't fault this idea.. but that's because I haven't seen it physically in front of me so I don't know if its actually possible) Bearing in mind this is a toy so it wont be undergoing track scrutineering / road car MOT tests.... which of the three options would you choose and why? Any answers will do. Just keep them relative please.

Oct 14th, 2013, 13:11	#2
NI_Volvo_Nut Volvologist Last Online: Dec 6th, 2023 11:13 Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Bangor - Norn Iron View Photos By: NI_Volvo_Nut	If its not going for MOT then why worry? If you're worried about the spring moving, weld it to the bottom plate? __________________ What's the matter with the car I'm driving? Can't you tell that it's out of style? Should I get a set of white wall tires? Are you gonna cruise the miracle mile?

Oct 14th, 2013, 18:15	#3
classicswede Trader Volvo in my veins Last Online: Today 20:52 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Anglesey	options 1) fit correct shortened dampers 2) machine the damper stem down in a collet lathe, a 3 jaw will damage the stem and make it useless. 3) weld the top bearing into the top cup and use jubilee clips to hold the springs in top and bottom. The weld on the top bearing will crack well before the hose clips give way __________________ http://www.classicswede.org www.classicswede.co.uk

Oct 29th, 2013, 12:01	#5
classicswede Trader Volvo in my veins Last Online: Today 20:52 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Anglesey	Off you are fitting both classic swede springs and dampers then the spring will be held in place. That way it is totally safe and will pass the mot. __________________ http://www.classicswede.org www.classicswede.co.uk

Oct 29th, 2013, 11:42	#4
APItom New Member Last Online: Oct 30th, 2013 13:38 Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Harbury, Warwickshire	Ok so having just bought a 340 for myself and after helping my mate do his front shocks, i'll be looking to get mine through an MOT next year. So my question now is... will the shortened shocks get the car through an MOT combined with the shortened springs? Basically I would just like to know whether the MOT tester is going to fail me for having no tension on the spring whilst the car is up in the air. Sorry if this seems like i'm being difficult but I just want some peace of mind before I splash out on some custom shocks!! Thanks

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