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Coolant Question

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Old May 22nd, 2022, 08:54   #1
raleigh753
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Default Coolant Question

I have a 2013 XC70 D5 215bhp and an issue with the cooling system. Driving every day in to town shopping etc the 'stop vehicle low coolant' message comes on after a few days. When checking the coolant is below the sensor level , hence the alarm. When the engine is cold the next morning I open the coolant cap and there is a rush of air and the level goes up to normal . There is no mayonnaise or combustion fumes in the coolant , nor is there air bubbles with the cap off and the engine running. I would like to know what type of coolant should be in the system , blue or the red OAT (organic acid technology) type . I have searched the internet and found no definitive answer and the coolant currently in the system is a sludgy brown which looks like its got Radweld or something similar. I want to drain , flush and refill the system and try and determine the issue causing coolant system pressurisation and obviously need to use the correct type of coolant . I have already renewed the coolant cap . Incidentally the warning message came on the other morning and after giving the car some beans the message disappeared and on checking the coolant level was correct so I suspect a blockage somewhere caused by the additive .
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Old May 22nd, 2022, 12:53   #2
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Originally Posted by raleigh753 View Post
I have a 2013 XC70 D5 215bhp and an issue with the cooling system. Driving every day in to town shopping etc the 'stop vehicle low coolant' message comes on after a few days. When checking the coolant is below the sensor level , hence the alarm. When the engine is cold the next morning I open the coolant cap and there is a rush of air and the level goes up to normal . There is no mayonnaise or combustion fumes in the coolant , nor is there air bubbles with the cap off and the engine running. I would like to know what type of coolant should be in the system , blue or the red OAT (organic acid technology) type . I have searched the internet and found no definitive answer and the coolant currently in the system is a sludgy brown which looks like its got Radweld or something similar. I want to drain , flush and refill the system and try and determine the issue causing coolant system pressurisation and obviously need to use the correct type of coolant . I have already renewed the coolant cap . Incidentally the warning message came on the other morning and after giving the car some beans the message disappeared and on checking the coolant level was correct so I suspect a blockage somewhere caused by the additive .
A simple answer VOLVO coolant .. you wont get better value or quality anywhere else . It doesn't need regular changing ....

you need to refill with water, do your tests and sort your problem out first however.

Put some clear pipe on the air bleed hose going into the top of the coolant bottle and see if there is a stream of tiny bubbles ... if so , you could have a cracked cylinder liner , worst case .. it depends who has done what to it in the past of course.
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Old May 23rd, 2022, 11:24   #3
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Default Volvo Coolant 50/50.

I agree with Clan. Volvo coolant at 50/50 dilution and when/if top up is necessary only use the 50/50 mix.
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Old May 26th, 2022, 14:51   #4
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Further update re my D5 cooling issue . I have had the test done for combustion gasses in the coolant and that passed ok . I have ordered 4 litres of Volvo concentrate coolant to drain and refill the system. I have read on the web that some cars had issues with the coolant return pipe on the top of the engine to the coolant reservoir and I can see there are two connection points on the reservoir but only one pipe is fitted . Is there a modification/update re fitting a second pipe ? I have also read that there is a small rubber 'o' ring that is advised to replace on the cooling system pipe , does anyone know if that is correct and where it is located ?
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Old May 26th, 2022, 15:45   #5
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You need to pressure test the sustem as well as sniff test it.

Its also worth fitting a new cap. They don't cost a lot and its easy to elimate a fault there.
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Old May 26th, 2022, 16:52   #6
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Further update re my D5 cooling issue . I have had the test done for combustion gasses in the coolant and that passed ok . I have ordered 4 litres of Volvo concentrate coolant to drain and refill the system. I have read on the web that some cars had issues with the coolant return pipe on the top of the engine to the coolant reservoir and I can see there are two connection points on the reservoir but only one pipe is fitted . Is there a modification/update re fitting a second pipe ? I have also read that there is a small rubber 'o' ring that is advised to replace on the cooling system pipe , does anyone know if that is correct and where it is located ?
there is a rubber O ring on the main water pump inlet pipe which goes across the back of the engine about in line with the head gasket the pipe is about an inch diameter though and volvos O rings don't perish or go flat .
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Old Jun 1st, 2022, 13:23   #7
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So far I have replaced the coolant cap for a brand new one and also done the test for combustion gasses in the coolant which was negative . I have found when my other half uses it to go to work 3 miles each way after a few days the low coolant warning comes on and when checking it is at or below the minimum mark. However If I leave it alone after checking and drive a bit at 50-60 mph speeds the warning goes away and on rechecking the coolant level is normal and correct ? A bit stumped on this one ! Seriously thinking of getting rid of the car
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Old Jun 1st, 2022, 21:59   #8
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Originally Posted by raleigh753 View Post
So far I have replaced the coolant cap for a brand new one and also done the test for combustion gasses in the coolant which was negative . I have found when my other half uses it to go to work 3 miles each way after a few days the low coolant warning comes on and when checking it is at or below the minimum mark. However If I leave it alone after checking and drive a bit at 50-60 mph speeds the warning goes away and on rechecking the coolant level is normal and correct ? A bit stumped on this one ! Seriously thinking of getting rid of the car

On short runs, the engine might not reach operating temperature and the coolant won't expand. On your longer runs at higher speeds, the engine will get warmer and the coolant will expand to fill the expansion tank. That might explain the fact the low coolant warning doesn't activate on longer/faster journeys.

I've had cooling systems that leak when not under pressure, but don't leak when the system is pressurised. A joint that relies on an O-ring seal can behave this way, for example.

When I acquired my D5 XC70, the 'low coolant' warning was a frequent problem. For a couple of years I kept a container of coolant in the boot and topped the tank up as necessary. In spite of looking hard, I couldn't find the leak. Earlier this year I had a new air conditioning condenser fitted, and the engineer noticed a very slight weep on one side of the radiator where the plastic tank is joined to the core. A new rad was fitted and low coolant problem is now solved.

I hope this info might help you. A shame to sell your car for what is probably quite a trivial problem.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2022, 10:56   #9
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The car is not loosing coolant , from cold with the level at max and remove and replace the coolant cap to ensure no pressure, the car is used for 2 to 3 days 3 miles each way to work before the coolant low warning level comes on . On checking the level is below the minimum mark . If I remove the cap the pressure escapes and the coolant level returns back to it's original level.I know coolant cannot cmpress and the pressure is not due to combustion gasses so I am at a total loss ?
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Old Jun 3rd, 2022, 11:31   #10
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Originally Posted by raleigh753 View Post
The car is not loosing coolant , from cold with the level at max and remove and replace the coolant cap to ensure no pressure, the car is used for 2 to 3 days 3 miles each way to work before the coolant low warning level comes on . On checking the level is below the minimum mark . If I remove the cap the pressure escapes and the coolant level returns back to it's original level.I know coolant cannot cmpress and the pressure is not due to combustion gasses so I am at a total loss ?
There is an air lock somewhere in the cooling system the air bubble is what is compressing . Volvo cooling systems are very good at expelling any air back to the coolant bottle after the first heat/cool cycle . The conclusion must be that a small amount of combustion gasses are building up somewhere in the head . You need to remove the cylinder head to check the head face.
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