2.4D (2005 on) Intank pump

[outnumbered]

it would be for the fuel filter, this item is the one that is causing more issues at the moment .
mike

[5cilinder]

So cold weather plays havoc on unserviced fuelfilters?

[Simon Jones]

Just a thought: diesel filters on other vehicles I am familiar with often have a tap to allow any water to be drained off that is designed to be trapped in the filter. During cold weather, any water present could freeze which would obviously impact on the flow rate.

[5cilinder]

Those filters are designed that the inlay element is elevated on a few small fundations.
If there is water pressent it will sink under the inlay element (wich is blinded off under)
So the water wont block the higher part of the filter where the paper is
Except if the whole filter is filled with water, but then i think the engine will also stall in the summer ;-)

So again my question still stands on the assumption that why many cold fuel pressure faults ocur in the winter or maybe all year trough?

[LJD]

Good morning!


Here is my issue

Car takes 2-3 seconds to start . YOu guys say the tank pump "starts the car" ?? I refer to this :

"your D5" has a combined low and high pressure fuelpump in the enginebay
And i believe your intankpump is only used at startup and if your fueltank is below half to suck up fuel from the left sadle
So concerning your problem try a full tank and see if problems only arise halfway the tank"


And it comes from one side of the tank to start ?
once running its fine.
Then when the fuel gauge reaches 1 notch above empty it entered limp mode and would not start .

Again, from what i have read, the last bit of fuel comes from this side of the tank again ?

Mechanics will drop tank today ,is this required or can it all be done from the access panel ?

I did 180 miles fast drive before it happened But no real Hills
Just the M1

cheers

Luke

[Rich A]

This is my first posting, but I like to say about my faulty intank pump. Had problems with my 2004 xc90 d5 not starting in the mornings so I changed the injectors as a precation as I do a few miles overseas, fitted Bosch recons, but still did not run from cold, but with a lot of turning over with a jump pack it eventually went with no faults when driving and no fault codes and could drive for miles and miles. So I decided to remove check and replace the pump in the tank and now starts on the button every morning. The pump in the tank needs to produce 2-3bar of pressure to the main pump before the inlectors will open and once running the main pump takes over. Bought a genuine fuel pump from Volvo @ £258-00. Also have now fitted a tdi tuning box and wow so much more drivable and another 3-4 mpg so now at 34.8 running around local.

[Bernard333]

Originally Posted by LJD

Good morning!


Here is my issue

And it comes from one side of the tank to start ?
once running its fine.
Then when the fuel gauge reaches 1 notch above empty it entered limp mode and would not start .

Again, from what i have read, the last bit of fuel comes from this side of the tank again ?

Mechanics will drop tank today ,is this required or can it all be done from the access panel ?

Luke

It does not matter for starting that the internal syphon pipe is broken/blocked or missing provided you have between a 60% and 100% full tank but as soon as its gets near the 60% level it will start spluttering and cutting out . I would change mechanics if I were you , there is no need to drop the tank unless they need to replace it and thats not likely , everything is accessible from the two plastic sender/pump covers . Have been using a T5 in tank pump now for two months in my D5 , some long journeys clocked up starts fine and seems no effect on fuel consumption or performance. My D5 is also empty when fuel gauge is showing about 1/8 tank but this is because I was lazy and left in the old syphon pipe in the tank so I didnt need to open the second sender cover , the sender is fouling on this , could be your sender float is sticking for some reason .

[LJD]

Originally Posted by Bernard333

It does not matter for starting that the internal syphon pipe is broken/blocked or missing provided you have between a 60% and 100% full tank but as soon as its gets near the 60% level it will start spluttering and cutting out . I would change mechanics if I were you , there is no need to drop the tank unless they need to replace it and thats not likely , everything is accessible from the two plastic sender/pump covers . Have been using a T5 in tank pump now for two months in my D5 , some long journeys clocked up starts fine and seems no effect on fuel consumption or performance. My D5 is also empty when fuel gauge is showing about 1/8 tank but this is because I was lazy and left in the old syphon pipe in the tank so I didnt need to open the second sender cover , the sender is fouling on this , could be your sender float is sticking for some reason .

Hi Bernard

let me correct myself ! They have not dropped the tank

They have accessed both covers.

Its not easy to find the correct pump/sender
the one they have removed has a part number on it : 30671066

will try another Volvo breaker tomorrow morning

so let me make sure i have understood you

what should the mechanics 100% do to ensure the gauge works correctly?

cheers

Luke

[Bernard333]

Originally Posted by LJD

Hi Bernard


what should the mechanics 100% do to ensure the gauge works correctly?

cheers

Luke

Hello Luke , First thing is check the in tank rheostats , the resistance is maximum with an empty tank at approx 390 ohms and has a linear decline to zero ohms with a full tank . Not sure what your connections are , on MY2004 V70 D5 Euro 3 there is a 5 pin plug on top of the pump/sender on the offside so its easy checking each sender . On earlier D5s and petrol V70s/S60s etc the connections all come out the opposite sender on the nearside and more fiddly to check . The senders are reliable and normally last as long as the car , most likely problems are sticking or someone has broken the arm locating clip on the nylon pivot at the top of the pump housing ( this can happen when removing the assembly ) then the steel arm going to the float can stick in one position . Also check the arrow on top of the pump is pointing to the rear of the car , if not the float arm will not have free movement . The computer takes an average of the two resistance readings to calculate the range and to control the fuel gauge .