Amazon: - Freebie Amazon project - Page 11

Gordon Hunter · Apr 5th, 2012, 22:15

Nice. So, getting inside the boot and measuring and comparing points from side to side, the RHS wing lip is 10mm lower than the LHS at the top end (near the hinge where all the problems are). I think this is fixable with the portapower, as the other points I measured on the wings seem to be not far off the same. This is good(ish) news as there seems to be a solution, but it'll have to wait until after the hols now...

Derek UK · Apr 6th, 2012, 00:33

I started my reply as being to the one before last but got diverted looking for other repair pictures, but the comments still stand I think even though your measurements are sure to be useful. Enjoy your Hols.

I don't think I'd want to tweak the back end around unless I was sure I was matching it to a boot lid that was straight and true. Does it look to be correct? If it has had a shunt it could well have pulled it out of shape due to being fixed low at the back panel. If you took the hinges right out, how would it sit then?
As an aside, the rear light openings look a bit too wide and are a bit out of shape. They are never perfect and rely on the seals to to make up for any differences but a good pair of reflectors and rims would prove that one way or the other.
Lots to think about..............

940_Turbo · Apr 6th, 2012, 00:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gordon Hunter

Nice. So, getting inside the boot and measuring and comparing points from side to side, the RHS wing lip is 10mm lower than the LHS at the top end (near the hinge where all the problems are). I think this is fixable with the portapower, as the other points I measured on the wings seem to be not far off the same. This is good(ish) news as there seems to be a solution, but it'll have to wait until after the hols now...

Most if not all rear ended 120s I've repaired have distorted over the axle, that is a weak spot there. I imagine it was intentional. It can be really had to spot but is easy enough to fix with the car chained to a pulling beam.

Gordon Hunter · Apr 6th, 2012, 07:53

Ok, starting to make sense now.
With both sides apparently having had a shunt (the RHS looks to have been the worst) It is possible that the chassis could be twisted both sides. So, it's not going to necessarily be accurate taking measurments from the LHS to fix the RHS.
I'd like to try to repair this 'in house', but I have no experience of crash repair really and don't have a dozer. The car is not realistically moveable so my option is to strap the car down to the scizzor lift and have a go with the portapower. I think it will work matching the RHS up to the left. My guess is its probably a safe bet that the right has distorted the most as it looks like the LHS had only a minor dent...

Derek UK · Apr 6th, 2012, 11:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by 940_Turbo

Most if not all rear ended 120s I've repaired have distorted over the axle, that is a weak spot there. I imagine it was intentional. It can be really had to spot but is easy enough to fix with the car chained to a pulling beam.

I think most cars bend on the axle line due to the rear wings having the wheel arches there which makes it the natural bend point A few years ago I was caught in the middle of a concertina shunt in a brand new Ford Orion hire car. The boot section was bent in so badly that the rear part of the rear arches pressed against the tyres and stopped them turning. FWD but smoke from the tyres as I drove it off the road. It also made a kink in the middle of the roof! Speed was probably about 20 mph but the rear of the car was raised due to heavy braking. The car in front had no obvious damage, perhaps due to having a tow bar and the Lancia Beta that rear ended me got off lightly. I was the only car left waiting for a tow truck after the event. Everyone else drove away.

Good luck with the PP Gordon. Peter, I think you'll have to repost the pics of you pulling out that estate front end. Have you got the reg number of that one or any others you've had, for my database?

940_Turbo · Apr 6th, 2012, 14:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gordon Hunter

I'd like to try to repair this 'in house', but I have no experience of crash repair really and don't have a dozer. The car is not realistically moveable so my option is to strap the car down to the scizzor lift and have a go with the portapower. I think it will work matching the RHS up to the left. My guess is its probably a safe bet that the right has distorted the most as it looks like the LHS had only a minor dent...

I'd start by measuring triangularly across the car. 120s in good condition are generally within 2mm. You can see the principle of the pulling beam. The cross tube is clamped to the sill. The beam is chained to the the cross tube and then you pull. It tends to pull the metal back exactly where it came from as unlike panel beating it introduces little or no stretch. The trick is not going too far. One of these beams will pull a car in half if you let it.

Tail · Apr 6th, 2012, 15:33

Nice chrome wheels on that car...

Gordon Hunter · Apr 6th, 2012, 20:25

I'd really like one of those! A friend who ran a crash repair business (when we lived in the South) had one. It was amazing what he straightened out and returned to the road. But I'd also need the space to go with it!

Before I set off this morning I stood and stared at the car for a long time. You can actually see that the RHS wing sits lower than it should. It's like the end of the rear wing just droops down and is bodged together. I'm going to measure it all as suggested, but I'm really hoping that the chassis doesn't need the kind of equipment we've been talking about. If the chassis is straight, then I'll dismantle the rear panel and boot floor and match it to the LHS. Anyway this is just speculation as I can't nip out to the workshop to have a look!...

Thanks for all your helpful comments and thoughts.

Gordon

940_Turbo · Apr 7th, 2012, 15:21

You have to be really careful looking at the rear of a 2 door. They're asymmetrical. From the factory the LH rear light is vertical, the RH rear light tips out a bit at the top.

Gordon Hunter · May 14th, 2012, 21:39

Well I've kind of been putting off going any further with the back end until a mate comes and has a look at the end of the week.

In the meantime, I've removed the rear axle, re-bushed everything and painted it all. I had some rubber bushes in the loft so I've used these to keep costs down and have bought a few new poly ones too to replace the rest. I ended up buying a new lower torque rod (the nice smooth shiny one in the photo) but one of the originals was re-bushed and scrubbed up ok with a bit of welding up.
I also found a Bilstein shock in the loft and have bought one new one. Not sure if this is the best way to do it, but I'm on a very low budget so I'll 'suck it and see'.
I have got a set of S/H lowering springs to try out. They aren't progressive, so not sure if I'm going to like them but again, they found their way into the workshop through the back door, so I'm hoping to make them work!...
Braided brake hose hand brake cables and some new adjusters have also been left by the parts fairy. Very kind...

010.jpg

I have also chiseled off (air chisel) almost all the old underseal from the end of the transmission tunnel back. There is a bit of repair work to be done, but generally it is just a clean up the surface rust job...

011.jpg

Thankfully the drivers side torque rod mounting point to chassis is solid enough not to have to repair...

005.jpg

Apr 6th, 2012, 00:33	#102
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Yesterday 23:46 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	I started my reply as being to the one before last but got diverted looking for other repair pictures, but the comments still stand I think even though your measurements are sure to be useful. Enjoy your Hols. I don't think I'd want to tweak the back end around unless I was sure I was matching it to a boot lid that was straight and true. Does it look to be correct? If it has had a shunt it could well have pulled it out of shape due to being fixed low at the back panel. If you took the hinges right out, how would it sit then? As an aside, the rear light openings look a bit too wide and are a bit out of shape. They are never perfect and rely on the seals to to make up for any differences but a good pair of reflectors and rims would prove that one way or the other. Lots to think about.............. Last edited by Derek UK; Apr 6th, 2012 at 00:40. Reason: Extra

May 14th, 2012, 21:39	#110
Gordon Hunter Ex 1800 Register Keeper Last Online: Apr 29th, 2022 17:04 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Central Scotland	Well I've kind of been putting off going any further with the back end until a mate comes and has a look at the end of the week. In the meantime, I've removed the rear axle, re-bushed everything and painted it all. I had some rubber bushes in the loft so I've used these to keep costs down and have bought a few new poly ones too to replace the rest. I ended up buying a new lower torque rod (the nice smooth shiny one in the photo) but one of the originals was re-bushed and scrubbed up ok with a bit of welding up. I also found a Bilstein shock in the loft and have bought one new one. Not sure if this is the best way to do it, but I'm on a very low budget so I'll 'suck it and see'. I have got a set of S/H lowering springs to try out. They aren't progressive, so not sure if I'm going to like them but again, they found their way into the workshop through the back door, so I'm hoping to make them work!... Braided brake hose hand brake cables and some new adjusters have also been left by the parts fairy. Very kind... 010.jpg I have also chiseled off (air chisel) almost all the old underseal from the end of the transmission tunnel back. There is a bit of repair work to be done, but generally it is just a clean up the surface rust job... 011.jpg Thankfully the drivers side torque rod mounting point to chassis is solid enough not to have to repair... 005.jpg Last edited by Gordon Hunter; May 14th, 2012 at 21:41.

Apr 5th, 2012, 22:15	#101
Gordon Hunter Ex 1800 Register Keeper Last Online: Apr 29th, 2022 17:04 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Central Scotland	Nice. So, getting inside the boot and measuring and comparing points from side to side, the RHS wing lip is 10mm lower than the LHS at the top end (near the hinge where all the problems are). I think this is fixable with the portapower, as the other points I measured on the wings seem to be not far off the same. This is good(ish) news as there seems to be a solution, but it'll have to wait until after the hols now...

Apr 6th, 2012, 07:53	#104
Gordon Hunter Ex 1800 Register Keeper Last Online: Apr 29th, 2022 17:04 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Central Scotland	Ok, starting to make sense now. With both sides apparently having had a shunt (the RHS looks to have been the worst) It is possible that the chassis could be twisted both sides. So, it's not going to necessarily be accurate taking measurments from the LHS to fix the RHS. I'd like to try to repair this 'in house', but I have no experience of crash repair really and don't have a dozer. The car is not realistically moveable so my option is to strap the car down to the scizzor lift and have a go with the portapower. I think it will work matching the RHS up to the left. My guess is its probably a safe bet that the right has distorted the most as it looks like the LHS had only a minor dent...

Apr 6th, 2012, 15:33	#107
Tail Master Member Last Online: Nov 29th, 2020 00:42 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Newton Abbot	Nice chrome wheels on that car...

Apr 6th, 2012, 20:25	#108
Gordon Hunter Ex 1800 Register Keeper Last Online: Apr 29th, 2022 17:04 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Central Scotland	I'd really like one of those! A friend who ran a crash repair business (when we lived in the South) had one. It was amazing what he straightened out and returned to the road. But I'd also need the space to go with it! Before I set off this morning I stood and stared at the car for a long time. You can actually see that the RHS wing sits lower than it should. It's like the end of the rear wing just droops down and is bodged together. I'm going to measure it all as suggested, but I'm really hoping that the chassis doesn't need the kind of equipment we've been talking about. If the chassis is straight, then I'll dismantle the rear panel and boot floor and match it to the LHS. Anyway this is just speculation as I can't nip out to the workshop to have a look!... Thanks for all your helpful comments and thoughts. Gordon

Apr 7th, 2012, 15:21	#109
940_Turbo . Last Online: Jul 14th, 2013 14:28 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: MK	You have to be really careful looking at the rear of a 2 door. They're asymmetrical. From the factory the LH rear light is vertical, the RH rear light tips out a bit at the top.

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