2.4D (2005 on) Intank pump

[5cilinder]

When i switch on the contact the pump is activated for 10 seconds wich i can hear with streaming diesel and humming
After i start the engine i cant hear the humming anymore ,that combined with a complete dead engine on the highway ,seems to me that the intank-pump is not working with a running engine .because only a idling engine is sustained sofar (im not trying highways before i have the cause)
Now are there different positions wich activate the intankpump?
And what i also not understand is the quoted exerpt out of the document below
It says that the pump works fulltime but also says it will work "only 10 or 45 seconds prior starting
They cant be both true


http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/New...006-Theory.pdf

Fuel system
High pressure pump/electric fuel pump
The fuel system has undergone a number of modifications compared with the D5244T/T2.
The combined low/high pressure pump is replaced with just one high pressure pump. The drive is as for the
D5244T/T2 i.e. via the intake camshaft. The high pressure pump has three pump elements as before.
Instead of having one low pressure pump integrated in the high pressure pump unit the existing electrical fuel
pump is used, located in the saddle tank's right-hand saddle pocket
The electrical fuel pump is activated during the whole operating cycle. This means that the high pressure
pump is continuously supplied with fuel at a constant pressure. Amongst other things this improves starting
in excessive heat.
The pressure regulation takes place in the high pressure pump. The relative fuel pressure is 3.5 to 5.5 bar.
The capacity is 150-180 litres per hour.
The pump works with constant (unregulated) speed and the supply voltage is equivalent to the car's system
voltage.
When the key is turned from position 0 or I to position II the fuel pump is activated for a certain time.
- With more than 10 litres in the fuel tank the pump is activated for 10 seconds.
- With less than 10 litres the pump is activated for 45 seconds.
- In the event of unintentional stalling the pump is activated for a further 10 seconds.

[Bernard333]

Thats a good document thanks for posting it . The in tank pump is not permanently on its switched with a relay at least that is definitely the case with the D5 163bhp euro 3 engine but it seems the newer diesel works slightly differently , what engine do you have ? I find this very interesting as about the only major problem I have had with my V70 D5 in 155000 miles is with the in tank pump . Last weekend my in tank pump apparently failed for the third time . My in tank pump is only switched on every few seconds and at a steady 50 mph on a flat road it does not switch on for periods up to three or four minutes . Last weekend when my car broke down I discovered how well the high pressure injection pump can suck fuel unaided from a 5L container , it emptied it in a few minutes with a pipe going directly to it and returned the fuel to the main tank . The gallon container was positioned higher than the engine , just bringing it down to the same level as the in tank pump which is at a slightly lower level than the main injection pump will cause the engine to cut out .

I am thinking this means I have one or more faulty injectors and they could have been faulty for a long time as its at least two years since they were last tested .

[5cilinder]

"your D5" has a combined low and high pressure fuelpump in the enginebay
And i believe your intankpump is only used at startup and if your fueltank is below half to suck up fuel from the left sadle
So concerning your problem try a full tank and see if problems only arise halfway the tank.

My engine is the euro4 engine , the document explains the differences with the euro 3 engine.
What i understand is that the intankfuelpump takes over the abandoned low pressure component of the high pressure fuelpump and should work all the time

What confuses me is the 10 and 45 sec cycle how can there be a different cycle if the pump should be permanently on?
So i esthablished that whenever i switch on the ignition to II the pump comes in For 10 seconds ( i can slightly recall that at the time of the problems i couldent hear at all prior starting but im not sure)
But when i start the engine i cannot hear the pump humming anymore.
Engine keeps running and i dont get motormangement warnings for the time being anymore.
My question is: is the fuelpump being activated from different modules? ,so that it gets activated prestarted from one module while for example the ecm should activate it with a running engine? but fails somewhere (relay, bug dtc etc)

What im going to do is start the engine, and take of the pump connector to see if a motormanagemt fault comes up and if the engine keeps running or not

[Bernard333]

The pump problems with mine have been ongoing for 3 years , the in tank pump on a 163 bhp Euro 3 D5 is needed for starting and for normal driving . Any acceleration will switch the pump on and a faulty pump will cause the engine to go into limp mode , that happened on mine usually when overtaking , it was intermittant . When I fitted the second pump I wired an ammeter into its supply as I wanted to see when the pump was working as I also had the problem that it cannot be heard over normal road noise , it should pull about 2amps or less so any meter that reads 5 to 10 amps full scale is suitable . I have installed an in tank pump taken from a T5 yesterday , I dont know what will happen when I start it up as the output pressure is 3.8bar compared to 2 bar for the diesel pump , I am thinking there is a chance it may go into limp mode but its a temporary measure until I can find a suitable diesel pump . The pump on mine is controlled by the CEM switching a relay , I would be very surprised if the Euro 4 has more than one module controlling the fuel pump relay ?

[5cilinder]

2 bar is probably a sign the pump was worn. 3.8 bar sounds more like a good working one .
The amp meter is a good suggestion to see what happens

[5cilinder]

Pulled the fuse of the pump with idling engine
Engine stopped instantly .
So the question if the pump should work all the time is answered ;-)

I was wondering if the pump is mechanicly damaged then amp measurement will do no good because the electricmotor will still produce max amp with mechanicle resistance

[mikeys40]

Originally Posted by Bernard333

The pump problems with mine have been ongoing for 3 years , the in tank pump on a 163 bhp Euro 3 D5 is needed for starting and for normal driving . Any acceleration will switch the pump on and a faulty pump will cause the engine to go into limp mode , that happened on mine usually when overtaking , it was intermittant . When I fitted the second pump I wired an ammeter into its supply as I wanted to see when the pump was working as I also had the problem that it cannot be heard over normal road noise , it should pull about 2amps or less so any meter that reads 5 to 10 amps full scale is suitable . I have installed an in tank pump taken from a T5 yesterday , I dont know what will happen when I start it up as the output pressure is 3.8bar compared to 2 bar for the diesel pump , I am thinking there is a chance it may go into limp mode but its a temporary measure until I can find a suitable diesel pump . The pump on mine is controlled by the CEM switching a relay , I would be very surprised if the Euro 4 has more than one module controlling the fuel pump relay ?

Can you please let me know if the t5 pump works ok as they seem easier and cheaper to find.

thanks

[5cilinder]

i think the gasoline and diesel intankpump are roughly the same

[Bernard333]

Originally Posted by 5cilinder

Pulled the fuse of the pump with idling engine
Engine stopped instantly .
So the question if the pump should work all the time is answered ;-)

I was wondering if the pump is mechanicly damaged then amp measurement will do no good because the electricmotor will still produce max amp with mechanicle resistance

This is obviously a major difference between Euro 3 and Euro 4 . The Euro 3 D5 engine will run with a faulty pump and even with the pump fuse 33 next to CEM blown the engine can still run on a flat road but any acceleration will then put it straight into limp mode and getting it restarted is very difficult . An ammeter in the pump supply line is the easiest way to know its working , a stalled rotor will cause the current to rise and can blow the 15A fuse, I think this is why the gauze filter on the pump inlet is important as it should keep out any particles big enough to stall it . If the motor is pulling anything up to approx 4 amps then the pump is rotating . The faulty pump motors I have tested draw 100mA and show no signs of life , stripping them open the brushes and commutator are worn out and as far as I can see would be very difficult to replace . Using a voltmeter accross the pump supply would be no good other than to show the relay or fuse is blown , its got to be an ammeter.

[ Quote ] 5cilinder 2 bar is probably a sign the pump was worn. 3.8 bar sounds more like a good working one .
The amp meter is a good suggestion to see what happens
Yesterday 16:01 [

2 bar is the correct pressure for the diesel , the one in the Euro 3 is a Bosch 0 580 454 009 . The T5 petrol pump is a Bosch 0 580 453 447 , this puts out 3.8 bar and also has a higher flow rate but because pressure regulation is dealt with on the common rail side of the injection pump and not the low pressure side I am thinking it should work but it may cause the fuel pump relay to switch it on and off much more frequently than the correct spec pump ? I am making assumptions that may be wrong about using the T5 pump , its just I dont have much choice as I need to get the car going under its own steam rather than having it towed to a garage the nearest of which is a long way from me . I fitted a pump from a ten year old Toyota diesel three years ago and this worked fine until December but that pump motor is definitely now failed . The one that I installed in December was the correct unit and came from a 2004 V70 D5 so its surprising its only lasted 2 months so I am thinking something may have caused it fail rather than old age .

Mike , The car will still not start , the T5 pump is working and I am getting diesel delivered to the injection pump so I dont know why it will not start . Something ominous was when I opened the OBD connector cover under the dashboard water ran out , this is just under the CEM . The functions covered by the CEM seem to all work but obviously its not looking good . Any ideas what to try next would be welcome as a trip to a main dealer is likely to cost 1000 Euro minimum if it needs a new CEM .

[outnumbered]

Originally Posted by Bernard333

This is obviously a major difference between Euro 3 and Euro 4 . The Euro 3 D5 engine will run with a faulty pump and even with the pump fuse 33 next to CEM blown the engine can still run on a flat road but any acceleration will then put it straight into limp mode and getting it restarted is very difficult . An ammeter in the pump supply line is the easiest way to know its working , a stalled rotor will cause the current to rise and can blow the 15A fuse, I think this is why the gauze filter on the pump inlet is important as it should keep out any particles big enough to stall it . If the motor is pulling anything up to approx 4 amps then the pump is rotating . The faulty pump motors I have tested draw 100mA and show no signs of life , stripping them open the brushes and commutator are worn out and as far as I can see would be very difficult to replace . Using a voltmeter accross the pump supply would be no good other than to show the relay or fuse is blown , its got to be an ammeter.

[ Quote ] 5cilinder 2 bar is probably a sign the pump was worn. 3.8 bar sounds more like a good working one .
The amp meter is a good suggestion to see what happens
Yesterday 16:01 [

2 bar is the correct pressure for the diesel , the one in the Euro 3 is a Bosch 0 580 454 009 . The T5 petrol pump is a Bosch 0 580 453 447 , this puts out 3.8 bar and also has a higher flow rate but because pressure regulation is dealt with on the common rail side of the injection pump and not the low pressure side I am thinking it should work but it may cause the fuel pump relay to switch it on and off much more frequently than the correct spec pump ? I am making assumptions that may be wrong about using the T5 pump , its just I dont have much choice as I need to get the car going under its own steam rather than having it towed to a garage the nearest of which is a long way from me . I fitted a pump from a ten year old Toyota diesel three years ago and this worked fine until December but that pump motor is definitely now failed . The one that I installed in December was the correct unit and came from a 2004 V70 D5 so its surprising its only lasted 2 months so I am thinking something may have caused it fail rather than old age .

Mike , The car will still not start , the T5 pump is working and I am getting diesel delivered to the injection pump so I dont know why it will not start . Something ominous was when I opened the OBD connector cover under the dashboard water ran out , this is just under the CEM . The functions covered by the CEM seem to all work but obviously its not looking good . Any ideas what to try next would be welcome as a trip to a main dealer is likely to cost 1000 Euro minimum if it needs a new CEM .

that does not sound too good Bernard looks like you will have to seal the wiring under the vent first before you get hold of a CEM.
mike