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Diesel Engines A forum dedicated to diesel engines fitted to Volvo cars. See the first post in this forum for a list of the diesel engines. |
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location nr fuelpump relay in cemViews : 13584 Replies : 29Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Feb 16th, 2012, 09:41 | #11 |
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No problem ofcourse it was with the best of intentions, thats what counts
@clan This could explain my frustration not finding it But how can this be? look here at page 16 http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/New...006-Theory.pdf Its explicitly 2006 models with a fuelpump relay Problem is that the engine cuts out ,particulary after full throttle The first time it went out after full throttle (not immediatly but 30 seconds later) there was aprox 60% fuel in the tank , after restarting it could bearly idle ,engine managent light went on. After waiting a while it could be started and driven in limpmode then after 10 miles it went dead without full throttle . fuel filter was already replaced a month before and was still clean (no metal from intankpump or other pollution) After a day it could be started again and idling went well , It froze like hell and no garage i figured that maybe it was related to not picking up fuel from the left side and that if i keep the tank full i could take a look in the spring. So i filled 10 liters with a jerrycan , and started the engine and drove off to the gasstation to fill her up . After 200 meters the enginemanagement light went on and the engine hesitated a few times , but no cutout Then i filled her up and i went to a volvo guy with vida to read out faultcodes, aprox 10 miles driving max 40 miles/h everything went ok no hesitation or engine cutout Then i readed out the faultcodes : ECM-24E0 Fuelsystem wrong signal(countertrip on fuel errors) ECM-2530 fuelpressure to low And also ECM-2520 fuelpressure to low (wich was not active anymore) and a few other not active faultcodes wich can be related to taking connectors of sensors) We erased the codes and i made a quick drive in the neighbourhood with full throttle wich went ok and no enginelight When i shortly after parked the car the engine stalled and couldnt be started In the mean time trying to start the car i noticed when i put the key in 2 a clicking noise behind the gages (only once btw) And a few times trying to start while starting the srs light went on while starting and of when stopped starting Now if there is an srs fault /collission the fuelpump will be switched of . but no sign of a srs faultcode. Then i messured a few sensors on resisctance and volatage with a multimeter wich seemd fine. After 15 minutes the engine started again and i could drive 25 miles without problems (driving very carfully ) or enginelight Now the clickingnoise hinted me to a relay so i figured a relay change could do no harm Im also going to install a transparant hose with pressuregage to monitor fuelpressure with running engine and also im curious what the pressure will be. A few questions Whats the difference between code 2520 and 2530? fuelrail and/or intankpump pressure? And is the transistor for switsching the fuelpump easy to replace? Last edited by 5cilinder; Feb 16th, 2012 at 10:12. |
Feb 16th, 2012, 10:29 | #12 |
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Feb 16th, 2012, 10:35 | #13 |
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Just like in vida 2 numbers same explantion
No specification if one code is in front of the highpressurepump or the other one after To be fair if you meassure for the fuelpressure in 2 places for and after the high pressurepump saves a lot of guesswork |
Feb 16th, 2012, 10:44 | #14 |
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what year is your car and engine code please.
mike
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Feb 16th, 2012, 10:45 | #15 |
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There seems to be a number of different wiring routes to the fuel pump even between 2001 and 2004 model years on a D5 and different again on the petrol versions . On the early D5 and petrol models the pump is fed from wiring to the opposite sender cover and does not have a plug on top of the pump . On the MY2004 D5 and onwards it has a five pin plug mounted which plugs into the fuel pump holder on same side as the fuel pump , you need to keep this in mind if buying a used pump as most of them in the breakers yards do not have the plug and socket which makes it a pain to wire up unless you change the actual pump over which is also a pain . The power feed is the two terminals and the senders the three terminals , there is also a yellow wire on my plug which goes nowhere . You can wire an ammeter into either side of the power feed . The power wires on mine are one heavy duty blue and a heavy duty black , the blue wire heads off to the CEM at the front of the car and the black is earthed near all the seat belt plugs .
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Feb 16th, 2012, 10:45 | #16 |
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2005/ d5244t5
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The Following User Says Thank You to 5cilinder For This Useful Post: |
Feb 16th, 2012, 11:33 | #17 |
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I think you have a faulty in tank pump , whats happening is similar to what happened on mine . The D5 will start and run with fuel being delivered to the injection pump at a much lower pressure than the 2 bar specified for the diesel pump. I replaced the pump on mine two weeks ago with a 3.8bar petrol pump and have now tested fuel feed and return pipes and checked the fuel filter , there are no blockages and yet the pressure being delivered to the high pressure pump is so low its not measurable but still the car starts first time and runs well , unless you find a blockage in the pipes I would be testing the in tank pump . If you remove the plug from the pump you could try a 12V battery directly across the power terminals to see if it makes a good noise .
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Feb 16th, 2012, 13:47 | #18 | |
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Quote:
It does doesnt it ! That is a drawing from an earlier manual i rekon . It is only a training manual not the official wiring diagram . As the blue feed wire from the in-tank pump goes directly to pin A6 of the CEM , no where else . From what is said above it would seem the tank pump is intermittantly sticking, a sharp blow to the plastic tank on the right side can start it up again if it breaks down on the road ..
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Feb 16th, 2012, 15:06 | #19 | |
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Quote:
Yours is a single stage high pressure pump but does it have a low pressure outlet for excess fuel to join the injector return pipe system to the tank ? Last edited by Bernard333; Feb 16th, 2012 at 15:18. |
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Feb 16th, 2012, 15:39 | #20 | |
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@clan
thabks for pointing out the outdated drawing, saves me a lot of frustration @bernhard Quote:
@All I have some interesting findings While i was installing the transparant hose with a t-piece with pressure meter I saw that the pressure was aprox 5 bar pre-starting and idling (between 3,5/5,5 bar is advised) This will show me if i can rule out the low pressure circuit if the next cutout occurs But when i was tidying things up with idling engine and i moved the kabeltree a bit the engine sputtered and died . Engine started up again and after touching it again it died again After some inspection i saw that the wires of the pressure/flow regulator at the highpressure pump where damaged not terminaly but damaged Also the overal quality of the connectors/wires of the sensors is something that volvo should be ashamed over. Are there kits to change the wires/connectors and is there a preffered method to do it right? Because if this is the root cause or not its waiting to fail Last edited by 5cilinder; Feb 16th, 2012 at 16:15. |
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