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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244Views : 2025287 Replies : 4092Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jun 27th, 2020, 18:28 | #1311 | |
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I'm never intending to renovate the RB (that would be making it as new) - I like the way it wears its 40 years of history. I do find it satisfying to make some aspect of the car work properly again, particularly if I am able to do so for a minimal outlay and some of my time. The RB is becoming like an old pair of brown leather brogues that I bought in 1982 and still wear occasionally. The shoes have probably been re-soled between 15 and 25 times I should think; they certainly don't look new, but are not scruffy either - they still polish up well and are very comfortable. That is where I want to end up with the RB. My father takes being a tightwad too far - but I understand what you mean. He grew up when things were scarce and just cannot bring himself to change. Ho hum, he will never change, but I always hope he will for mum's sake :-( You are right about cars depreciating, they are particularly poor assets when it comes to keeping one's money. I do so hope I am wrong about this, but I agree that the current pandemic will unveil some unpleasant truths about millions of people's finances - and in particular their lack of proper savings and investments provision. I suspect there will be quite a few fire-sales in the next year or two. There is nothing wrong with being a tightwad John, it will prove to be something to be proud of at the time of reckoning. I took great pleasure in acquiring some perfectly good winter tyres and wheels for only £60 today, and more than that I like the idea that I avoided wasting what might have been 50kg of scrap rubber and steel. It was fun fixing the RB's wobbly motor for £6 the other day - a job that might have cost over £100 at the garage - fortunately for me the RB throws up another little issue that needs my attention every now and then. Many people on this part of the forum (the 200 series bit) seem to be of a similar mind, which is comforting. Best wishes, Alan |
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Jun 27th, 2020, 19:11 | #1312 | |
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I will read (and answer) your PM later, thanks!
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Jun 27th, 2020, 21:09 | #1313 | |
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I knew I had another (very impressive) photo of the Fiat Panda to show you, how about this: so, the trials bike rack fits onto the towing hitch (I still use it on the Skoda for off road bikes if I can't be bothered to load up the bike trailer)... of the Fiat Panda. Then the CCM fits on that, it looks somewhat precarious here but the Panda carried the CCM all the way to the Netherlands (I was working there at the time - note the Dutch plates). I think I must have brought it back that way as well (I still have the CCM, although it has been modified quite a bit and looks rather different now). I knew there was another reason for fitting that towing hitch to the Panda. Anyway, I recall it performed remarkably well, all the way to Limburg (I suppose 400 miles or so) with a bike on the back without any problems (the CCM probably weighs less than 100Kg, but still impressive I think). :-) Last edited by Othen; Jun 27th, 2020 at 21:13. |
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Jun 27th, 2020, 23:19 | #1314 |
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Definitely more impressive Alan! If that was my old Panda i'd say the bike had more power, certainly a better power to weight ratio!
Going back to my earlier thought about towing the Panda with a motorhome, i can just imagine a Winnebago with the Panda on the back and the bike on the back of the Panda! Confused constabulary comes to mind! I've replied to your PM now as well as having had a feeed following walkies and feding my faithful furry friend.
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Jun 28th, 2020, 07:49 | #1315 | |
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I'll pop the DAB adapter in the mail the next time I'm in town. It looks like being a nicer day today, so I might get the other engine mount changed; the new transmission mount didn't arrive in yesterday's mail though, so I may leave that until Monday and get them both changed whilst the car is on ramps, we'll see. I think I'll swap the wheels over on the Skoda first, just to make sure everything is good (I don't want to find a problem when I need the winter ones in November). Also the nearside front tyre on the Skoda (the 18" one) seems to have an extremely slow leak, it loses maybe 5 psi/week - just enough to be irritating. Maybe it just needs a new valve - I'll investigate with the wheels swapped. Alan |
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Jun 28th, 2020, 14:59 | #1316 | |
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Your "slow puncture" is almost certainly going to be the bead seal between the tyre and the rim as it's on an alloy. Valves do fail of course but out of all the valves i've changed on a leaky alloy wheel, only one has actually been the cause. It's always come doen to the paint/lacquer on the bead area of the inside of the rim being defective and allowing air out. If you send your wheels off for refurb, they should media blast them, repair any kerb rash and then usually powder coat them in your preferred colour. This should cover the whole wheel so eliminating the possibility of leaks round the rim. If you get a plant sprayer and make a strong solution of washing up liquid (cheap ones seem to work better for this), inflate the tyre to 40-45psi and leave the cap off the valve and lay the wheel flat, give it a good spray of the WU solution round the bead area and on the valve, sit back and watch, you should see the source of the pressure loss. If nothing is evident fairly quickly, turn the wheel over and repeat the spraying of the solution. That said, there is a case of "why bother" if you're having them refurbed. If you want to have peace of mind between now and when you change to the winter tyres then it's a good idea to do it, if not, keep an eye on the pressure or use some Tyreweld or similar as a temporary measure. Decisions, decisions!
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Jun 28th, 2020, 16:25 | #1317 | |
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Jun 28th, 2020, 17:36 | #1318 | |
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I didn't get round to the engine mount on the RB today because I sold one of my bikes (the SV650S) and delivered it to the buyer in Bedford. It was a good run out for the steel wheels and I'm pleased to say I had no problems towing, I had expected the winter tyres to give rather poorer fuel economy, but the Skoda still returned just over 50 MPG, which I think is good for towing (albeit the trailer was empty on the way back). Getting back to your point about the alloys: I think you are probably right. They are a bit scabby after 7 years on the car, and the Skoda paint is pretty thin (and only on the front face). I'm thinking that as the wheels are off the car at the moment perhaps I find some place that can clean, blast and powder coat them all over this week, and run the car on its winter tyres for a while (I won't need to do many miles). I'd be really happy with powder coating like on the RB, and suspect that would seal up any little leaks there might be around the rim. Again you have prompted me in the right direction Dave, many thanks. Alan PS. I have just tried the 'LS' test on the suspect alloy - and you are right, there are tiny but just perceptible bubbles appearing next to some kerb damage (which must be my fault - I've been the only driver). Well done. PPS. I’ve found a chap in Walsall (60 miles away) who is able to take the loose wheels tomorrow, remove the tyres, clean, blast and powder coat the wheels, then replace and re-balance the tyres. It sounds like remarkable value and should solve the slow puncture problem. Super duper. Last edited by Othen; Jun 28th, 2020 at 19:43. |
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Jun 28th, 2020, 17:37 | #1319 |
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Jun 28th, 2020, 21:09 | #1320 | |
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Instead of getting out after a long journey feeling like you've just got in, you feel like the first port of call needs to be a chiropractor followed by an undertaker! Changing to 16" gives the opportunity to increase the aspect ratio and therfore the sidewall height which makes for a much more comfortable ride. Also 205/55/16 tyres are a lot cheaper than 215/40/18s or whatever they are on it (just guessing at the 18s size) so maybe finding a set of Skoda (or other VAG) 16" alloys would be a better option. Keep the 18s in case you sell it. Just spotted your PS's, good news the bubble test found the leak, i thought it would be near some kerb damage. Moisture gets under the lacquer and paint and lifts it, corroding the aluminium underneath which then grows crystals causing leaks. Good news on finding someone to do the job, how much is he charging if you don't mind me being nosey?
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