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S80 '98-'06 / S60 '00-'09 / V70 & XC70 '00-'07 General Forum for the P2-platform S60 / V70 / XC70 / S80 models |
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What pressure during brake fluid flush?Views : 1982 Replies : 7Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 23rd, 2014, 01:02 | #1 |
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What pressure during brake fluid flush?
Hi
I bought S60 D5 2000 recently and noticed that water content in the brake fluid is over 4%. I would like to flush the system properly but i heard that when using pressure bleeder the pressure should not be too high otherwise ABS proportionate valve might be stuck. Can anyone who has flushed the brakes of S60 in the past advice on the pressure? I heard as well that 1 litre might not be enough. Are any other things to remember during the operation? Shall i flush the clutch cylinder the same same - again what pressure to use? Many thanks for any advice. Best Regards |
Oct 23rd, 2014, 02:15 | #2 |
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This is the info in VIDA for the 2001 S60
Brake system, bleeding (using bleeding unit) Note! Bleeding an ABS brake system takes longer than bleeding a normal brake system. Guidelines for bleeding When reconditioning or replacing brake calipers bleed the relevant brake pipe as follows. The brake pedal must be depressed throughout the operation. This is so that the brake system is not drained of brake fluid. If the braking system has been completely or partly drained, bleed the whole system. A bleeding unit that can pressurize the brake system to 0.2-0.3 Mpa must be used. Note! Use only Volvo Genuine Parts brake fluid (Volvo DOT 4+). Never reuse brake fluid. Always keep brake fluid well sealed in its original packaging. Preparations Switch off the ignition. Clean around the brake fluid reservoir filler cap. Take out the special brake fluid collection bottle. Connect the bleeding unit Connect bleeding unit to brake fluid reservoir. Follow manufacturer's instructions for connecting and using bleeding unit. Pressurize the brake system. Check the brake fluid reservoir connector. Raise the car and remove the wheels Bleeding left front wheel (right wheel on right-hand drive) Remove the protective cap from the bleed nipple. Connect the hose from the collection bottle. Open the bleed nipple. Close it when there are no more air bubbles in the fluid coming out of the hose. Tighten the bleed nipple. Remove the hose from the bleed nipple. Reinstall the protective cap. Bleeding other wheels Continue to bleed the other wheels as for the left front wheel Check for leakage from the bleed nipples. Depressurize the brake system Close the **** on the pressure line. Open a nipple and close it again. Checking for air in the brake system and for brake fluid leakage See Brake pipe master cylinder / ABS unit, replacing:Checking for air in the brake system and for brake fluid leakage
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Oct 23rd, 2014, 03:18 | #3 |
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If you are not in a rush, you can let the bleeders drain by gravity. It should take around 30-60 minutes per corner to drain 250-500ml of fluid, while keeping an eye on the reservoir to top it up.
I also use to push the caliper piston fully back right after opening the bleeder, so all the old fluid inside the caliper is drained right away.
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Oct 23rd, 2014, 10:30 | #4 |
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My pressure bleeder uses the partially deflated spare. Starts at 20 psig and tails off to the point that I have to pump it up again. One litre will do it barring spills and accidents with the pressure cap.
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Oct 23rd, 2014, 12:29 | #5 |
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My Sealey pressure bleeder works quite nicely at 10-15psi and the fluid comes out at a good rate.
It can go to more (28) but it doesn't "feel" mechanically sympathetic......to me at least. As said, a litre should be plenty but I prefer to have more on standby if using a pressure bleeder.
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Oct 23rd, 2014, 15:44 | #6 |
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... and do the clutch at the same time, same pressure.
Few tips. Soak the bleed nipples the night before with release agent like plus gas. WD40 is not great at this job. I use homebrew 50:50 kerosene and acetone/nailvarnish remover. The nipples can round off or snap off so use a proper fitting tool. Suck up as much of the old fluid, with it's sediment, as you can from the reservoir with a syringe or similar before starting. Just don't uncover the inlet to the piston and let air in. Double check the sealing at the caps - quite a few have been caught out first time. Get a big rag around the reservoir just in case. Whatever happens avoid the temptation to push the brake pedal to the floor. It can reverse seals. |
Oct 23rd, 2014, 16:31 | #7 |
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They're a great bit of kit aren't they, I'd be lost without mine and it almost makes bleeding brakes a pleasure
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Oct 23rd, 2014, 16:45 | #8 |
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Yep I have one too if I can get it back from my son
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2002, brake bleeding, clutch bleeding, flush, s60 |
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