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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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FuseViews : 790 Replies : 17Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 26th, 2018, 16:48 | #11 |
Master Tech
Last Online: May 18th, 2020 11:57
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Location: On Contract Dubai Automotve Technical Academy
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If the fuse was the correct rating then "connector pin fretting" is a likely possibility. This is where the leg of the fuse and the female connector in which the make contact suffer from oxidisation over time. This leads to areas of high resistance which begins to accumulate high heat levels. Dielectric grease is the recommended on such electrical contact points.
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Oct 26th, 2018, 18:03 | #12 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 16:40
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Location: Connecticut, USA
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KBB;
Ahem...I hate to beat, anyone who is trying to help, up on a public forum, but I can't agree with any of your points... Connector pin fretting is a possibility, but it occurs when connectors mate, inadequately lubed, or under excessive force, and galling and micro-welding takes place at the interface as material is displaced and pulled away...that is clearly not what happened here based on the massive carbonization at the end of the left fuse terminal (which is evidence of arcing, as is the unmistakable result of the heat from arcing [not high resistance caused by corrosion!] conducted into the plastic). I still believe the mating contact is out of place for the left contact and await the results of arturus's close inspection... ...and this damage is also not a result of oxidation IMO...that would be accompanied by discolored, oxidized surfaces remaining...everything looks shiny and practically new here (the discoloration present is from melted plastic only)... ...and Dielectric Grease is also the wrong answer...it is typically and often the recommended contact treatment for connections under environmental attack, however forum members here (or readers of my detailed explanation here: http://www.sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm ) know better!...DG lubes, yes, but it would also lock in any contaminants causing corrosion or oxidation allowing its continuation and not do anything against this...to stop corrosion or oxidation which has already started, or which is likely to start given contamination present, Anti-Corrosive Zinc Paste is the optimal solution, as it also lubes during contact insertion, preventing galling or fretting, but more importantly, it chemically neutralizes corrosion which has already started, or the contaminators present which might start it in the future... Cheers |
Oct 26th, 2018, 18:38 | #13 |
arcturus
Last Online: Today 09:21
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I need to get a replacement fuse module before i start dissecting my original one, this may take some time here.
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Oct 26th, 2018, 20:50 | #14 | |
Master Tech
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Quote:
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Oct 27th, 2018, 15:35 | #15 |
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Last Online: Feb 11th, 2022 04:15
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If you are trying to get an original part from Kenlow you might be in for a nasty surprise: Last time I was thinking about a new Kenlow I discovered they no longer sell to end users - say they only supply industry (which might mean they're going out of business)
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! |
Oct 27th, 2018, 17:19 | #16 |
arcturus
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As far as I know they have ceased trading already
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Oct 27th, 2018, 17:35 | #17 |
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Interesting, Google found the following.
"The 31.10.17 accounts indicate that the company is either dormant or no longer trades." |
Oct 28th, 2018, 16:12 | #18 |
marches on his stomach
Last Online: Feb 11th, 2022 04:15
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Wow there goes a corner stone of British classic car-ism
There was a time when a MGB just couldn't be a MGB with out the kenlow fan upgrade
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! |
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