Zexel compressor replacement

[hesaurus]

First of all I'd like to say hi to everyone as I am new to this volvo forum and Volvos in general.

I recently acquired a 1996 850 2.5 20v, a real minter with low milage and a full main dealer service history- the only problem was the air conditioning system (which I new prior to buying into the wonderful world of 850s was the one weak spot in an otherwise mechanically reliable vehicle). My plan was to save some pennies then go to town in a no holds barred air conditioning repair armageddon to get the system up and running for good (read a few years).

Unfortunately the gremlins had other ideas and after driving the car back form up north I noticed on one of my routine engine bay rummaging adventures that the A/C compressor pully was not spinning and the serpentine belt was skithering over it in a fashion likely to snap it in no time flat. After 'investigating' the pulley with a remote manipulation actuator (read BIG screwdriver) I came to the conclusion it was jammed solid in a 'catastrophic bearing failure' kind of way.

Long story short: I've decided to replace to compressor rather than repare it to eliminate it from being a pain later when the system is recharged (yes it have evacuated itself via the evaporator I expect) and so I am now the proud owner of an spanking OEM compressor serp belt and enough PAG oil to keep Amy Winehouse happy for a weekend. My plan- replace the Comp to get the car running then do the evap, reciever, orifice tube later at my liesure.

My question: Are ther any pit falls in this job, particually WRT compressor oil levels? I've researched it pretty well have the Haynes and Volvo workshop manuals for company and have read every scrap on every forum I can find but I'd like a fresh perspective.

Also will attaching a correctly oiled compressor and runnig the car without R314a in the system damage the unit atall IF I DONT TURN THE UNIT ON AND ENGAGE THE ELECTRONIC CLUTCH?

And finally would It be useful If I documented this proceedure into a 'How to guide' with pictures and bells of for future use?

Look forward to replys

Rich

(I apologise if this thread exists- I couldnt find it in a search)

[Chris_Rogers]

That's one way, but it may be better to fit a non AC belt until such time as you're ready to do a proper fix.

[gdphillips]

Originally Posted by hesaurus

First of all I'd like to say hi to everyone as I am new to this volvo forum and Volvos in general.

I recently acquired a 1996 850 2.5 20v, a real minter with low milage and a full main dealer service history- the only problem was the air conditioning system (which I new prior to buying into the wonderful world of 850s was the one weak spot in an otherwise mechanically reliable vehicle). My plan was to save some pennies then go to town in a no holds barred air conditioning repair armageddon to get the system up and running for good (read a few years).

Unfortunately the gremlins had other ideas and after driving the car back form up north I noticed on one of my routine engine bay rummaging adventures that the A/C compressor pully was not spinning and the serpentine belt was skithering over it in a fashion likely to snap it in no time flat. After 'investigating' the pulley with a remote manipulation actuator (read BIG screwdriver) I came to the conclusion it was jammed solid in a 'catastrophic bearing failure' kind of way.

Long story short: I've decided to replace to compressor rather than repare it to eliminate it from being a pain later when the system is recharged (yes it have evacuated itself via the evaporator I expect) and so I am now the proud owner of an spanking OEM compressor serp belt and enough PAG oil to keep Amy Winehouse happy for a weekend. My plan- replace the Comp to get the car running then do the evap, reciever, orifice tube later at my liesure.

My question: Are ther any pit falls in this job, particually WRT compressor oil levels? I've researched it pretty well have the Haynes and Volvo workshop manuals for company and have read every scrap on every forum I can find but I'd like a fresh perspective.

Also will attaching a correctly oiled compressor and runnig the car without R314a in the system damage the unit atall IF I DONT TURN THE UNIT ON AND ENGAGE THE ELECTRONIC CLUTCH?

And finally would It be useful If I documented this proceedure into a 'How to guide' with pictures and bells of for future use?

Look forward to replys

Rich

(I apologise if this thread exists- I couldnt find it in a search)

what bits do you need ????????? pics please so i can see if i have them

[Mike Arnold]

Provided the clutch does not engage with no "gas" in the system you will be OK. Make sure that you attach all the plumbing again. Leaving the system open to the air for a while will mean that moisture gets in and uses up the dryer. Free moisture in the system is BAD.

[hesaurus]

Thanks guys: Compressor sucessfully replaced with zero misshaps! Unfortunately the weather was a bit moist for the digital camera so I didnt have the chance to take any pictures of the job!

Rich

[hesaurus]

Its a good idea- it crossed my mind to do this but I thought that as I was going to get covered in grease anyway I might as well do the whole job...