Engine: B5244: Clutch *DMF - list of items to order

[D5meister]

My plate hade a fair bit left too at 148k
It was the dmf that had slack ~5 Fw teeth of movement.
My csc was leaking tho.

[SwedishBus]

I have just done a D5 clutch today (original cover plate had melted its plastic self-adjuster piece through aggressive clutch slipping by customer) and had a strange symptom on the DMF - I don't know if anyone else has seen this on a Volvo;

The DMF appears to be OK when rotated, 2 starter teeth loose slack, with about a further 1.5 teeth of damped&spring friction total in whichever direction is opposite the last turned direction. The problem appears (and this is what I haven't seen before) that if the DMF clutch driven face is pressed, the inner part of the DMF (against the driven plate) wobbles around an axis across the driven face, but only does this in one axis, i.e. if you try to wobble the face at 90degrees around the circumference, the whole lot is solid! Is this due to the heating that has occurred in the clutch cover? I drove the car into the workshop with a burned&dragging clutch, but didn't detect any freeplay in the driveline when lifting on/off the accelerator pedal.

I also had trouble with the plastic self-adjuster ring on this; the normal tool for applying a rotating force to bias the adjuster to the "new" position (fully anti-clockwise) would not turn the plastic, it was too sticky. I had to manually bias through the clutch cover against the self-adjuster plastic "ramps" with a screwdriver, then use the normal tool to keep it there.

The full LuK kit from GSF Car Parts was around £310+VAT (I got a discount on this) which includes the cover, plate and slave cylinder. All genuine LuK, so the parts need not cost a fortune for anyone contemplating this.

Thanks for any feedback on the DMF!

[D5meister]

not sure what was was wrong with the clutch.

Fitting the new one, the adjuster ring will go easy to move if you apply enough clutch derpress force to the spline spring set.

The Volvo adjuster ring hold tool has 3 spreings which holds the adjuster back to NEW pos easily.

If you needed to poke it round with the help of your normal tool, it suggests u may not have applied a full clutch depress amount. But only by a small amount - otherwise it would not have budged.. even with a big screwdriver!

[SwedishBus]

Yes, I'm not sure why it didn't move either. I had the correct tool on the cover (genuine auto-adjusting-clutch kit) and tried a few different release travels to see if that made any difference. It made not a jot of difference, even at full finger travel flush with the cover.

The end-game was that the clutch is absolutely fine, it bled fairly easily, and appears to have found a good bite-point within a short period of time. The car is back with the customer, with the advice "Don't slip it again, not to the extent that it melts the plastic inside the cover plate"

The gearbox was one of the easiest to engage with the clutch plate that I have ever done. Probably just as well, as the M56 is a bit heavy for one person. The trick was to jack on the subframe, and use the rubber rebound rubber as a slide/support for the base of the gearbox. I put a bit of silicon grease on the rubber face to make the job easier. Then all I had to do was use my slave bellhousing fixings to guide the front of the box, and use the subframe to align the back. Took me 2minutes to put the first proper fixing into the back of the engine, after manually lifting the 'box through the wheelarch.