Amazon: - Clicking noise from rear wheel - Page 3

HRA · Feb 26th, 2019, 22:01

Thanks simonvolvo. To be honest I haven't tried that specifically, but the wheel has been off a number of times including when I had that tyre blow-out and the clicking stayed throughout. It's not impossible that the wheel went back on in the same orientation every time but pretty unlikely. And the spare was a different wheel.

HRA · Feb 26th, 2019, 22:07

Hi Army, I couldn't feel any play in either of the rear wheels - either in the 6/12 position or the 3/9.

I'm (naturally) hoping it isn't a problem with the differential but hoping doesn't count for much. But surely the diff is under the same load regardless of whether the wheel is on the ground or there is a stand under the axle? Or is there something subtle that I'm missing here?

HRA · Feb 26th, 2019, 22:14

Hi Kassie, that's an interesting idea. Is there any feature on the inside of the drum that might click against the handbrake lever? I really can't remember if there are any ribs on the inside of the drum.

The clicking I have is a very sharp click even at low (walking) speed. It's not a "brief scrape" it's a sharp ratchet-like click. It's not quite as metallic as the click of a handbrake ratchet but certainly like someone flicking a finger-nail at a plastic cup.

HRA · Feb 26th, 2019, 22:28

Thanks Faust - I can see that the pressure there would change depending on whether the wheel was on the ground or just hanging on the supported axle.

How did you fix the problem? New woodruff key? New drum? Or was it worse than that? Or did the problem go away with the woodruff key in the other way around (not that it should matter)?

Do you have any idea what the displaced key was clicking against?

Faust · Feb 26th, 2019, 23:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by HRA

Thanks Faust - I can see that the pressure there would change depending on whether the wheel was on the ground or just hanging on the supported axle.

How did you fix the problem? New woodruff key? New drum? Or was it worse than that? Or did the problem go away with the woodruff key in the other way around (not that it should matter)?

Do you have any idea what the displaced key was clicking against?

New woodruff key solved the problem - guess it'd been damaged by a previous owner or it could've been wear and tear.

Think the key has to go in pointed end first, with the cutout facing upwards. Gently tap it in but don't go whacking the thing with a bloody great lump hammer!

Underdrive · Feb 27th, 2019, 08:30

Was the 'walking along side' test done with the engine driving the car or was it being pushed? If you do both and get different results it could suggest something internal to the rear axle that causes the noise under load rather than just as a result of being back on it's wheels. Having said this I would still think the answer will be found when the drum is removed. Good luck.

HRA · Feb 27th, 2019, 08:52

Thanks Underdrive. The walking alongside test was done with the engine driving the car. But I did the same with the wheel off the ground So I'm hoping that rules out a problem with the diff.

I think I'll have to get myself a puller and see what's going on inside the hub. I just hope it's something visually obvious since I won't know I've cured the problem until I've put things back together again and taken the car for a drive.

Does anyone happen to know where I could get a puller that is man enough for the job, easy enough to use and not silly money?

Army · Feb 27th, 2019, 09:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by HRA

Thanks Underdrive. The walking alongside test was done with the engine driving the car. But I did the same with the wheel off the ground So I'm hoping that rules out a problem with the diff.

I think I'll have to get myself a puller and see what's going on inside the hub. I just hope it's something visually obvious since I won't know I've cured the problem until I've put things back together again and taken the car for a drive.

Does anyone happen to know where I could get a puller that is man enough for the job, easy enough to use and not silly money?

The original Volvo style pullers with an effing big screw are very expensive for what they are (in my opinion). Since buying one of them I have seen cheapo hydraulic hub pullers for sale on ebay. I don't expect they would last as long as the original Volvo ones but for about half the price might be worth considering.

If you are a club member (of this website) there might be a tool lending system - something like a hub puller would probably be available.

(Oh by the way I tried several inventive ways of removing the brake drums on my PV before reluctantly buying the tool - a good strong tool is needed especially if they've been on there for some time)

Faust · Feb 27th, 2019, 09:53

HRA: as the saying goes, if you're going to do the job, then do it properly.

The puller you'll need is about 80 quid (Brookhouse sell them). Quite a lot of money but not when you stop and think about it...

By the time you've messed around with dodgy Ebay hydraulic pullers, 3/4 legged pullers, damaged your drums, wasted a load of time, got ****ed off with your car.... 80 quid seams quite cheap in comparison!

Sometimes in life you can take shortcuts and big youself up on the 'net with tales of your cleverness... not with the rear puller.

If you're ever in Nottingham give me a shout... I'd be more than happy to give you a hand.

Mike

Derek UK · Feb 27th, 2019, 12:35

Where are you in Surrey? There might be someone locally with a pukka puller and can help.

Feb 26th, 2019, 22:01	#21
HRA Junior Member Last Online: Mar 28th, 2024 16:36 Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Surrey	Thanks simonvolvo. To be honest I haven't tried that specifically, but the wheel has been off a number of times including when I had that tyre blow-out and the clicking stayed throughout. It's not impossible that the wheel went back on in the same orientation every time but pretty unlikely. And the spare was a different wheel.

Feb 26th, 2019, 22:07	#22
HRA Junior Member Last Online: Mar 28th, 2024 16:36 Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Surrey	Hi Army, I couldn't feel any play in either of the rear wheels - either in the 6/12 position or the 3/9. I'm (naturally) hoping it isn't a problem with the differential but hoping doesn't count for much. But surely the diff is under the same load regardless of whether the wheel is on the ground or there is a stand under the axle? Or is there something subtle that I'm missing here?

Feb 26th, 2019, 22:14	#23
HRA Junior Member Last Online: Mar 28th, 2024 16:36 Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Surrey	Hi Kassie, that's an interesting idea. Is there any feature on the inside of the drum that might click against the handbrake lever? I really can't remember if there are any ribs on the inside of the drum. The clicking I have is a very sharp click even at low (walking) speed. It's not a "brief scrape" it's a sharp ratchet-like click. It's not quite as metallic as the click of a handbrake ratchet but certainly like someone flicking a finger-nail at a plastic cup.

Feb 26th, 2019, 22:28	#24
HRA Junior Member Last Online: Mar 28th, 2024 16:36 Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Surrey	Thanks Faust - I can see that the pressure there would change depending on whether the wheel was on the ground or just hanging on the supported axle. How did you fix the problem? New woodruff key? New drum? Or was it worse than that? Or did the problem go away with the woodruff key in the other way around (not that it should matter)? Do you have any idea what the displaced key was clicking against?

Feb 27th, 2019, 08:30	#26
Underdrive Senior Member Last Online: Apr 9th, 2024 10:10 Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: stranraer	Was the 'walking along side' test done with the engine driving the car or was it being pushed? If you do both and get different results it could suggest something internal to the rear axle that causes the noise under load rather than just as a result of being back on it's wheels. Having said this I would still think the answer will be found when the drum is removed. Good luck.

Feb 27th, 2019, 08:52	#27
HRA Junior Member Last Online: Mar 28th, 2024 16:36 Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Surrey	Thanks Underdrive. The walking alongside test was done with the engine driving the car. But I did the same with the wheel off the ground So I'm hoping that rules out a problem with the diff. I think I'll have to get myself a puller and see what's going on inside the hub. I just hope it's something visually obvious since I won't know I've cured the problem until I've put things back together again and taken the car for a drive. Does anyone happen to know where I could get a puller that is man enough for the job, easy enough to use and not silly money?

Feb 27th, 2019, 09:53	#29
Faust Master Member Last Online: Apr 25th, 2024 00:05 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Nottingham	HRA: as the saying goes, if you're going to do the job, then do it properly. The puller you'll need is about 80 quid (Brookhouse sell them). Quite a lot of money but not when you stop and think about it... By the time you've messed around with dodgy Ebay hydraulic pullers, 3/4 legged pullers, damaged your drums, wasted a load of time, got ****ed off with your car.... 80 quid seams quite cheap in comparison! Sometimes in life you can take shortcuts and big youself up on the 'net with tales of your cleverness... not with the rear puller. If you're ever in Nottingham give me a shout... I'd be more than happy to give you a hand. Mike

Feb 27th, 2019, 12:35	#30
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Today 15:13 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	Where are you in Surrey? There might be someone locally with a pukka puller and can help.

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