'98 S40 1.9 T4 problem

[aLLaN86]

First of all, greetings from Estonia

At first i had the common issue with uneven acceleration under full load, felt like almost no power at all and misfire when accelerated hard. That was fixed when i replaced the faulty coil packs to new Beru coils and NGK HT-leads, old Bosch sparks to NGK Platinum plugs, fuel pump Walbro GSS340 replica, got new exhaust cause i thought it maybe blocked a bit over time cause it looked like there were no parts been replaced since the car was built. It is Simons exhaust, complete cat-back but ditched the middle muffler, only rear muffler and cat is present. The biggest issue was with coils and replacing these did most of the job.
But now i still have an issue - doesn't feel like i have all the power available that suppose to be under the bonnet and have an error code "337: Torque Control" frequently coming up and im 100% sure this causes the underpower issue but don't know yet what causes the trouble code. I delete it every now and then but it comes up again and again. Have been told my ECU is faulty and needs to be replaced(will cost a fortune) , DSA box faulty(checked with another one but nothing was different, removed it finally because DSA light came up all the time with no reason and got sick of it - no more light).
List of things i replaced/have done:
>coil packs
>spark plugs
>ht leads
>fuel pump
>new exhaust
>cleaned idle valve, throttle body and MAF sensor
>tried another TCV but nothing happened
>removed DSA
>checked vacuum hoses and air hoses visually, seems ok
>maybe some more, don't remember atm

Wastegate actuator rod end is worn to oval shape, can this cause that problem for me or anything else possible? Is there a way to repair it somehow without replacing the whole moving part, don't know from where to get new one :/


Thanks in advance,
Allan

[960kg]

You can get an actuator from Forge

But although your end has worn oval it can be compensated for by turning the actuator until you get required boost ...of course only up to the end of the thread or about 5 turns from std. setting then replace it.

You should only use the correct Volvo spark plugs as the `98 T4 is a very fussy motor and although other makes work...they have to work...they do give problems and you won`t know it is them as you know they are newly fitted!

I do believe you have done a wrong move with the DSA Module as you should not remove it just replace as new as this in itself controls how the ECU decreases fuel delivery in 8 increments when it thinks you have wheel spin and if not removed properly and in the map of the ECU may result in what problem you are getting.

When you fitted the Walbro make sure the delivery pipe from it in the tank was still the corrugated type otherwise if the straight one supplied is used it can be forced half off the supply pipe and you will get a bad leak and reduction in fuel pressure!

Good Luck

[Clan]

Originally Posted by aLLaN86

First of all, greetings from Estonia

At first i had the common issue with uneven acceleration under full load, felt like almost no power at all and misfire when accelerated hard. That was fixed when i replaced the faulty coil packs to new Beru coils and NGK HT-leads, old Bosch sparks to NGK Platinum plugs, fuel pump Walbro GSS340 replica, got new exhaust cause i thought it maybe blocked a bit over time cause it looked like there were no parts been replaced since the car was built. It is Simons exhaust, complete cat-back but ditched the middle muffler, only rear muffler and cat is present. The biggest issue was with coils and replacing these did most of the job.
But now i still have an issue - doesn't feel like i have all the power available that suppose to be under the bonnet and have an error code "337: Torque Control" frequently coming up and im 100% sure this causes the underpower issue but don't know yet what causes the trouble code. I delete it every now and then but it comes up again and again. Have been told my ECU is faulty and needs to be replaced(will cost a fortune) , DSA box faulty(checked with another one but nothing was different, removed it finally because DSA light came up all the time with no reason and got sick of it - no more light).
List of things i replaced/have done:
>coil packs
>spark plugs
>ht leads
>fuel pump
>new exhaust
>cleaned idle valve, throttle body and MAF sensor
>tried another TCV but nothing happened
>removed DSA
>checked vacuum hoses and air hoses visually, seems ok
>maybe some more, don't remember atm

Wastegate actuator rod end is worn to oval shape, can this cause that problem for me or anything else possible? Is there a way to repair it somehow without replacing the whole moving part, don't know from where to get new one :/


Thanks in advance,
Allan

where did you get your fuel pump from ? It has to be the original type which has a greater capacity then "Normal" kinds of fuel injection pump . Not higher pressure but higher FLOW .

[aLLaN86]

To 960kg
Ok, i try that actuator compensating tip when i have enough free time.

OEM Volvo plugs are not easy and cheap to get so i think about it next time i need to change them.

Like i said in my first post, i tested with another DSA box for some time and problem still occured, reduced power even when there wasnt wheelspin and dsa light came up frequently on steady speed highway driving and stayed there until "ignition off-on" again. And sometimes i had sudden engine stalling while driving - on neutral car revs drop to almost zero and then jumps to 1000rpm, doing it about 30 sec and sometimes stalls in the end, but not all the time. When this uneven idle occurs only thing that helps is to press accel.pedal really hard couple of times and then problem goes. And if i removed the DSA box completely, this has not happened anymore. Is this just coincidence? But ok, i will give another go with the DSA onboard again, maybe it gets working properly again.

Hmm, about the fuel pump, dont remember exactly anymore what sort of tube i used, did this some time ago. What u mean by this: "it can be forced half off the supply pipe and you will get a bad leak and reduction in fuel pressure!"? Sry my english is not perfect so i cant get it what u are trying to say with it.

To Clan
I got this from China, i know its a risk buying from there but saved me a lot of money - cheapest i could find in Estonia was 130-140€ and no guarantee that it isn't chinese product as well and i payed about 30€ for this and it is working for me...so far. Old one was very noisy and gave only 2,7bar of pressure from the fuel rail but searched for info and found this to be at least 3bar and from pump 3,5bar(correct me if im wrong), so it needed to be replaced with new one in my opinion. Now i havent made a new pressure test but at least the pump is quiet(almost) so i don't have to crank up the radio to muffle the fuel pump whining. The one i had before was Walbro GRJ235 (working pressure 3bar, standard fuel flow 105lph) now if you believe the numbers of replica, suppose to be 255lph like the original GSS340 Walbro pump.

[ww1dm1]

I wouldn't trust the DSA fault indications and light, I've had them come up randomly without relation to actual DSA.

Could you post a photo of what you meant by "Wastegate actuator rod end is worn to oval shape"?

Also, you mentioned that you fitted a chinese GSS340 replica. Was it a straight fit, are you sure the engine is not starving of fuel? Could you attach a fuel pressure gauge in a way that you can see the pressure while driving at full throttle? I'm pretty sure I've read that the GSS340 will have starvation problems at lower fuel levels as it has a different pickup pipe configuration, while the GSS342 can be made to work. You sure this isn't the problem?

[aLLaN86]

Originally Posted by ww1dm1

I wouldn't trust the DSA fault indications and light, I've had them come up randomly without relation to actual DSA.

Could you post a photo of what you meant by "Wastegate actuator rod end is worn to oval shape"?

Also, you mentioned that you fitted a chinese GSS340 replica. Was it a straight fit, are you sure the engine is not starving of fuel? Could you attach a fuel pressure gauge in a way that you can see the pressure while driving at full throttle? I'm pretty sure I've read that the GSS340 will have starvation problems at lower fuel levels as it has a different pickup pipe configuration, while the GSS342 can be made to work. You sure this isn't the problem?

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=254602 it looks more or less the same in the picture from that post and the other end that goes over the worn part is oval shape so there is a slight "free movement" (sry my english isnt very good to explain it correctly.

The pump is exactly the same shape, size and the height in the tank is the same as the original pump before but in numbers it should give more fuel flow.

Since i put the the newer DSA(compared with the original box that was initially in) box back in, the car works better but not perfect, sometimes it still feels like there is a "hole" in the acceleration as soon as turbo starts building up the power but past 3000rpm its ok most of the time.

[ww1dm1]

Originally Posted by aLLaN86

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=254602 it looks more or less the same in the picture from that post and the other end that goes over the worn part is oval shape so there is a slight "free movement" (sry my english isnt very good to explain it correctly.

The pump is exactly the same shape, size and the height in the tank is the same as the original pump before but in numbers it should give more fuel flow.

Since i put the the newer DSA(compared with the original box that was initially in) box back in, the car works better but not perfect, sometimes it still feels like there is a "hole" in the acceleration as soon as turbo starts building up the power but past 3000rpm its ok most of the time.

Did you ever go down to low fuel? There was a discussion on this forum somewhere and GSS340 caused starvation problems at low fuel levels. The shape and size of GSS340 matches great, but it has a different pickup pipe. If I remember correctly there was no second pipe from the side, which helps collect fuel when the tank is low.

I think the actuator play isn't a rare thing, shouldn't cause substantial problems unless there is a lot of it. Do you have a boost gauge? Would help see what's going on with the turbo pressure.

[aLLaN86]

Originally Posted by ww1dm1

Did you ever go down to low fuel? There was a discussion on this forum somewhere and GSS340 caused starvation problems at low fuel levels. The shape and size of GSS340 matches great, but it has a different pickup pipe. If I remember correctly there was no second pipe from the side, which helps collect fuel when the tank is low.

I think the actuator play isn't a rare thing, shouldn't cause substantial problems unless there is a lot of it. Do you have a boost gauge? Would help see what's going on with the turbo pressure.

You are right, there isn't another pipe from the side but so far i havent noticed any problems caused by that - i have driven with low fuel level(warning light on for 10-30km-s) many times and no stuttering or anything, but usually i fill the tank before it gets so low

No, i don't have boost gauge, i try to keep my car mostly stock in looks (interior and exterior) but if u tell me where to put this gauge while not ruining the original dash or block the air vents then let me know, i think about it.

[ww1dm1]

Originally Posted by aLLaN86

You are right, there isn't another pipe from the side but so far i havent noticed any problems caused by that - i have driven with low fuel level(warning light on for 10-30km-s) many times and no stuttering or anything, but usually i fill the tank before it gets so low

No, i don't have boost gauge, i try to keep my car mostly stock in looks (interior and exterior) but if u tell me where to put this gauge while not ruining the original dash or block the air vents then let me know, i think about it.

You don't really have to put it anywhere if you are trying to diagnose a problem. Just leave it dangling and remove it when you're done if you don't like it.

[aLLaN86]

Yesterday i shortened actuator rod by 2,5 turns. How many turns can i turn it before it can make damage or just make car working bad again? But now the car reacts faster when pressing accelerator pedal and when the boost kicks in, it kicks in harder than before and there is definetely more boost available while no stuttering or any negative effect on it, then its all about the worn actuator rod-end that causes issue with my car. Am i on the right path dealing with it?