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Brake failure stop safely

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Old May 1st, 2021, 11:20   #11
foeism
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmonag View Post
12.1V is a discharged battery. 12.6V is normal. Charge the battery then test again.

Key fob battery has nothing to do with this.

You could have CEM issues - corrosion at the connector due to water damage. If charging the battery does not fix the issue, check the CEM
Thanks for the reply.
I’ll get it charged up over the weekend and report back.
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Old May 2nd, 2021, 09:13   #12
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Morning.
Left the battery to charge over nigh trickle charge and still the same. Rear light stays on and when locking the car with the key, phob still working, it opens all the doors again!
Still have - -/- - on the dash for mileage.

I’m assuming this is a battery issue?

Forgot to mention the battery reading was 12.22, after I tried if the electrics worked.
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Old May 2nd, 2021, 10:10   #13
Harley Dave
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Battery needs a longer/fuller charge, not just on "trickle" overnight.

See what gmonag said...

Leave it on charge until the resting voltage (off charge, not connected to anything for 30 mins or so) is 12.6 or thereabouts.

If you can't achieve that, it's probably time to think about a replacement battery.

Cheers

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Old May 2nd, 2021, 10:17   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harley Dave View Post
Battery needs a longer/fuller charge, not just on "trickle" overnight.

See what gmonag said...

Leave it on charge until the resting voltage (off charge, not connected to anything for 30 mins or so) is 12.6 or thereabouts.

If you can't achieve that, it's probably time to think about a replacement battery.

Cheers

Dave
Thanks Dave
I’ll disconnect it and try again overnight on a normal charge, rather than trickle.
Will report back.
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Old May 3rd, 2021, 14:31   #15
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Okay update- charged up the battery on full for 24hrs.
Let the battery settle and it read 12.90.
Added it the car, with the key on the II position and the T1 mileage was now reading the mileage instead of - -/- - but keyphob not working and the rear lights are on whether key in or out and no interior lights. Does start up though.

Read the battery and down to 12.16.
I’ve had to disconnect the battery due to rear lights not going out.
Also one of the indicator bulbs on the off side isn’t working - just saying to see if related to any issues!?

Is my battery now poo?
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Old May 3rd, 2021, 15:45   #16
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I’m also wondering if the following codes are causing issues?

DEM-E003 wrong software
CEM - 1A01 no match

Any ideas?
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Old May 3rd, 2021, 16:29   #17
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Yes, that battery needs to be replaced.
Many issues can be caused by a failing battery.
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Old May 3rd, 2021, 17:17   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmonag View Post
Yes, that battery needs to be replaced.
Many issues can be caused by a failing battery.
Thanks Greg

I’ve been like a “flapping goose” over these issues! Anyway....
Will source a battery tomorrow and report back.
I also need a brake position sensor, might order both from Frf Swansea.

Got lots of trips planned away with kids end of this month, so hoping everything goes well.

Not sure why electrical faults and error codes frighten me so much?
I suppose running older cars you only knew if something needed replacing when it broke!
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Old May 4th, 2021, 08:47   #19
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Just a side note.
Found the battery date- 23rd week of 2010.

That’s not a bad length of time!
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Old May 4th, 2021, 19:56   #20
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Update-

So bought a Yuasa battery 100ah and 900a instead of a dealer one as they cannot deliver.

Anyway, plugged in the battery and left the car ticking over, all the locks now working via the phob, including the dash, but not the interior lights?
Plugged in Vida and the only 2 codes are:-
Amber light- ECM- 940F Brake pedal sensor - faulty signal
Checking brake light switch adjustment
Also this popped up- related csc- cruise control does not engage,AQ

But nothing, as in codes, as to why none of the interior reading lights are not working when the door is open?
All the lights work independently, except the rear interior boot light.
Any idea why this might be?

Thanks
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Last edited by foeism; May 4th, 2021 at 20:33.
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