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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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965: fuel pressure regulator replacementViews : 862 Replies : 17Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Nov 24th, 2020, 21:21 | #1 |
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965: fuel pressure regulator replacement
My fuel pressure regulator is broken and so i am looking for replacement.
regulator: Bosh 0 280 160 765 car: V90 3.0 132kW 1998 engine: B6304S2 engine control unit: Motronic 4.4 I looked everywhere, but cannot find it - its not in stock anymore. https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-part...0-765/1052148/ Do you guys know where to find new one ? Or maybe some appropriate replacement ? From what i have found out so far, replacement regulator needs to have 3 bars (43.5 psi) Last edited by Martin123456; Nov 24th, 2020 at 21:23. |
Nov 24th, 2020, 22:17 | #2 |
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The picture you've shown is one for a 760 V6, the correct one looks somewhat different :
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...regulator,6124 Here's the one that is shown in the Skandix pic you found, fitted on a V6 : https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...regulator,6124 The Rock Auto listing for the 760 part. Would be helpful if you can post a pic of your existing unit for positive identification.
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Nov 24th, 2020, 23:03 | #3 |
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I dont understand what is wrong with the link/picture i posted. My existing regulator is Bosh 0 280 160 765. That picture and skandix page shows exactly that.
But here is actual picture of my regulator: I tried that rockauto.com web catalog to check V90 1998 and its a bit weird. It says PR161 is a replacement, but clearly, that regulator looks differently https://www.standardbrand.com/en/eca...=PR161&view=bg Yes, that PR71 for 760 looks like what i have, but it has different pressure. only 36psi https://www.standardbrand.com/en/eca...ype=p&search=s Last edited by Martin123456; Nov 24th, 2020 at 23:22. |
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Nov 24th, 2020, 23:22 | #4 |
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Here you are, one in stock with the part number you quote :
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/677413 Just re-checked, no stock available! There seems to be a mismathc between the part number and description/photo. The one i linked to on Rock Auto that looks the same should do the job for you as it's also 3 bar. It's annoying when part numbers get deleted.
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Nov 24th, 2020, 23:29 | #5 | |
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yeah, thats my problem. original Bosh regulator is out of stock everywhere.
Quote:
spec: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1288706&jsn=8 |
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Nov 24th, 2020, 23:40 | #6 | |
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Quote:
@Martin123456 - in what way is your current FPR broken?
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Nov 24th, 2020, 23:48 | #7 |
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Well, it leaks. Membrane is probably ripped or something. As a result, engine revolutions are not steady when on idling, they go up and down. I think its because control unit has problem to inject the right amount of gas because of wrong pressure.
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Nov 25th, 2020, 00:41 | #8 | |
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Quote:
A split vac hose would cause similar symptoms. What is cold starting like?
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Nov 25th, 2020, 08:01 | #9 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
Cold starting is fine - even revolutions are pretty steady until engine warms up. Then they starts to go little bit up and down. |
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Nov 25th, 2020, 08:20 | #10 | |
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Quote:
Usually if the FPR fails and is leaking fuel out, the system pressure drops as the fuel leaks into the inlet manifold and evaporates overnight. This means there is no fuel present to fire the engine as soon as it turns so makes me doubt the FPR is faulty. Also if the uneven idling doesn't happen until it's warm (and hence is dependent on the Lambda sensor) it implies again the FPR is working ok. The fuel/engine management runs open loop while cold until the Lambda sensor has heated up sufficiently to give an output. There is at least one other possible cause, the first/main suspect would be the CTS - Coolant Temperature Sensor. There should be two, one for the gauge and the other is for the ECU/engine management system and that one can fail telling the ECU that the engine is colder than in fact it is. As such it is trying to run richer and the Lambda sensor will tell the ECU it's running too rich so the ECU will back the mixture off but because of the over-rich running it backs off too much so the engine falters. Then it over-corrects and continues on this cycle, causing uneven idling. The second possible cause could be the Lambda sensor is failing and giving too low an output - this again causes the ECU to "correct" the mixture by enriching it too much and it goes into the above excessively rich then lean cycle as above. If the present Lambda sensor is 10+ years or 100k+ miles old then it is definitely suspect. However, one thing at a time. If the FPR isn't leaking then look at the CTS assuming the temp gauge reads ~ halfway once warm and doesn't drop on the open road at 50-70mph.
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