Engine vibration.

[tugberk09]

Hi to all,

I have an 2000 V40 T4 and i am very happy with it except the engine vibration problem. My engine is vibrating at idle and at some revs under 3000 rpm, after 3000 rpm engine runs fine.

My cars body, the dash and steering wheel is vibrating with the engine when running at idle and when accelerating up to 3000 rpm. The problem is worse when the engine is cold, and when the engine warms up the vibration is decrasing but there is still a noticeable vibration.

When i put my hand on the engine i feel more vibration at timing belt side, there is no misfires or similar, no hesitation or power problem.

The car has 258.000KM on the clock,

I did the fallowing to solve the problem,

-Changed spark plugs and ignition coils to genunine Volvo,
-Changed upper left and right motor mounts, did not changed the lower ones as they were in good condition.
-Changed the outer axle heads right and left. Expected the inner axles, they were ok, no wear on them.
- Checked the timing, changed the belt.

Unrelated to this problem I also did the fallowing,

- Changed the cluth,
- New tyres,
- New tie rods,

None of these has cured the vibration! I don't have any idea what to try next, may be harmonic balancer? Any advice will help. Thank you

[ww1dm1]

I assume it's a manual? Was the flywheel condition checked when you were replacing the clutch?

[tugberk09]

Originally Posted by ww1dm1

I assume it's a manual? Was the flywheel condition checked when you were replacing the clutch?

Thank you for the advice,

Yes, it is a manual with m56 gearbox, the flywheel was inspected, my mechanic told me that it is not in perfect condition but still ok, as it is an expensive part we didn't changed it.

The vibration is more noticable on the belt side, when the headlights are on at night i can cleary see that the right headlight is vibrating too. As the flywheel is on the opposite side i think the flywheel is less likely to be the source of the problem.

[ww1dm1]

Originally Posted by tugberk09

Thank you for the advice,

Yes, it is a manual with m56 gearbox, the flywheel was inspected, my mechanic told me that it is not in perfect condition but still ok, as it is an expensive part we didn't changed it.

The vibration is more noticable on the belt side, when the headlights are on at night i can cleary see that the right headlight is vibrating too. As the flywheel is on the opposite side i think the flywheel is less likely to be the source of the problem.

Hmm, well if the vibration is clearly more apparent on the belt side, then if the mount was replaced there is not much left there that could do that besides the balancer pulley. I believe you can access it through the arch after taking the wheel off, so you could take a look if it's vibrating excessively. Maybe it's very slightly loose?

[tugberk09]

Originally Posted by ww1dm1

Hmm, well if the vibration is clearly more apparent on the belt side, then if the mount was replaced there is not much left there that could do that besides the balancer pulley. I believe you can access it through the arch after taking the wheel off, so you could take a look if it's vibrating excessively. Maybe it's very slightly loose?

I agree with you, I should check the pulley as the next move, i hope this solves the problem, i will write the results here.

Does anyone knows about how hard to change the balancer pulley? Can i do it my self?

[pierremcalpine]

Originally Posted by tugberk09

I agree with you, I should check the pulley as the next move, i hope this solves the problem, i will write the results here.

Does anyone knows about how hard to change the balancer pulley? Can i do it my self?

I think it's pretty straight forward...just remove the aux belt and then pop off the pulley. Access to the pulley would be via the wheel well, you just need to take the plastic cowling off.

[ITSv40]

I don't quite understand what is being referred to as the 'balancer pulley'.

As we are talking about engine vibration, I would think it is the lower pulley directly on the crankshaft at the front of the engine - timing belt end. This pulley has a silentblock rubber insert to act as a crankshaft damper. If this is the pulley referred to, the engine mount - top drivers side - needs removing and the engine lowered slightly to get access to the large nut on the end of the crank, This is bl**dy tight. The crank can be held by making up a bar to fit two of the four small bolts next to the big nut, hopefully the nut will then come undone. Once the nut is off and the four small bolts removed, the pulley needs a gentle tap to remove from the crank.

As Haynes say, refitting is a reversal of removal. the crank nut needs torqueing up to 133lb/ft.

[pierremcalpine]

Originally Posted by ITSv40

I don't quite understand what is being referred to as the 'balancer pulley'.

As we are talking about engine vibration, I would think it is the lower pulley directly on the crankshaft at the front of the engine - timing belt end. This pulley has a silentblock rubber insert to act as a crankshaft damper. If this is the pulley referred to, the engine mount - top drivers side - needs removing and the engine lowered slightly to get access to the large nut on the end of the crank, This is bl**dy tight. The crank can be held by making up a bar to fit two of the four small bolts next to the big nut, hopefully the nut will then come undone. Once the nut is off and the four small bolts removed, the pulley needs a gentle tap to remove from the crank.

As Haynes say, refitting is a reversal of removal. the crank nut needs torqueing up to 133lb/ft.

Yes, that is the pulley that we are referring to. As an aside, I would be tempted to replace the two bottom mounts even though they may not look worn. As I recall, when I removed the front lower mount, no wear was visible while it was in place but once it was out I could clearly see some significant cracks in the rubber. In addition, if you are going to be replacing those two mounts get yourself a pack of rubber inserts for the transmission cross-member. These giant rubber washers sit between the mount and the sub-frame where the bolts pass through and do wear out significantly. There was nothing left of mine.

I do not believe that the engine needs to be lowered to access the crank bolt. As a result I don't believe you need to take the upper engine mount off either. You are correct though - that bolt does need to be put back on really tight. Ideally you could just use an impact gun to take it off and put it back on - which would not require you to brace the crank. If that is not possible and/or if you would like to make sure that you've got the torque set just right you will need to fabricate a counterhold. Look at page 2, thread #16 for an example of such a counterhold in the link below. In the pics you will also see that you have full access to the bolt with engine mount still in place:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...=204876&page=2

Here's a link to a guide that references the work involved to switch out the lower mounts. You will see a pic of some of the rubber washers I refer to above...

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=217804

[ww1dm1]

Originally Posted by pierremcalpine

As an aside, I would be tempted to replace the two bottom mounts even though they may not look worn. As I recall, when I removed the front lower mount, no wear was visible while it was in place but once it was out I could clearly see some significant cracks in the rubber.

It would be hard to believe that they could cause bad vibration in idle if they look fine. Both of mine were clearly toast some time ago, didn't affect the idle much, just increased engine roll during driving. For vibrations in idle to amplify they'd either have to be pretty much missing or someone would have to fill them up with cement as an april fools joke.

[tugberk09]

Tomarrow i will try to remove the harmonic balancer and will change it if is bad.

I also buyed a set of ignition leads, i was replaced both of the coils but the leads going to cylinder 1 and 4 were not changed.

First i will install the leads, and if this solves the problem i will not remove the balancer, if the problem continues i will remove the belt and run the engine without it to see if the vibration still continues.

I will post the results here, thank you all for the advices.