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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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Front Wishbone Rear Bush Nut SizeViews : 1229 Replies : 16Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jun 14th, 2018, 10:07 | #1 |
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Front Wishbone Rear Bush Nut Size
Chaps,
Incredibly specific question. I need to change both of my front wishbone rear bushes because the front of the car currently sounds like someone's kicking it every time I brake. I'm pretty confident I can get the brackets off the car with a socket and breaker bar/rattle gun but, before I crack on, I was wondering if anyone knows the size of the nut holding the rear bush on to the wishbone? I've got a 12v rattle gun with only a small selection of sockets so I want to make sure I've got the right socket if I need to buy one before taking it all apart, swearing profusely, and putting it all back together again. Cheers Alex
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2008 V50 2.0D R-Design @ 175K Previously 1992 Volvo 240 SE Estate B230F/M47 (was AW70) @ 200K (I wish I could've kept him) Last edited by AlexO; Jun 14th, 2018 at 11:43. |
Jun 14th, 2018, 14:46 | #2 |
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usually 19mm, but some later ones can be 18mm.
access fiddly, easier if the three 14mm that hold the bracket are slackened first. The bush sleeve can sometimes corrode onto the wishbone, use a pair of stillsons to budge it Hope this helps, Jim |
Jun 14th, 2018, 16:28 | #3 |
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heckflosse, thanks very much for the reply.
I hadn't realised there was access with the bracket on (I don't like poking around the car when it's parked on the road) so I'll get a spanner on and see what fits, thats very much for the guidance though. Updates on the way! Alex
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2008 V50 2.0D R-Design @ 175K Previously 1992 Volvo 240 SE Estate B230F/M47 (was AW70) @ 200K (I wish I could've kept him) |
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Jun 14th, 2018, 19:20 | #4 |
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There's got to be for when you re-assemble. Bolt everything together but leave the nut loose, lower the jack so that the car is sitting on its suspension, then tighten the nut (and the bolt through the front bush) A word of warning from bitter experience - don't just apply brute force to the three bolts holding the bracket to the chassis. I ripped the threads in the captive nuts doing that. Squirt penetrating oil inside the box section, then ease the bolts very carefully backwards and forwards until you are sure thay are going to unscrew. A common finding is that the big bush pressed into the wishbone won't stay firmly, and turns the first time the suspension moves to its full extent. You may need a new wishbone, or put spot welds between the bush outer sleeve and the wishbone. |
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Jun 15th, 2018, 12:30 | #5 |
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Clifford,
Thanks for the sound advice, that's not how I was planning to do it at all but makes a lot of sense! Just waiting for the bushes to arrive from ClassicSwede then I'll crack on and report back. Fingers crossed the wishbone is sound but judging by the state of the roads on the Isle of Wight I wouldnt be suprised if it's not. Cheers Alex
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2008 V50 2.0D R-Design @ 175K Previously 1992 Volvo 240 SE Estate B230F/M47 (was AW70) @ 200K (I wish I could've kept him) |
Jun 16th, 2018, 09:28 | #6 | |
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Quote:
I don't think that's advisable, because as with all suspension components, you need it tightened up in the normal riding position, because otherwise there will be a permanent twist on the bushes and they will fail. Also I don't think it's possible, because once tightened onto the wishbone shaft I doubt you would be able to twist the bracket into alignment with the holes. In the past I've managed it on the car using a mixture of sockets, ring spanner and open-ended spanner. It was very slow, half a flat at a time by swapping tools. Perhaps a better socket type would have worked better. I also vaguely recollect that the offside was especially hard to get at - maybe I ended up removing the exhaust downpipe? I was going to add that probably you can at least remove the two components still bolted together, if you adjust the suspension height to take the strain off the bolts while you undo them. But I have a feeling I found that the bracket fouled the bodywork as I tried to jiggle the wishbone out. |
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