|
700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
Information |
|
Volvo 940 wont start.Views : 6435 Replies : 76Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Apr 18th, 2018, 21:31 | #21 | |
Master Member
Last Online: Oct 8th, 2022 23:22
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Auckland
|
Quote:
https://www.trademe.co.nz/electronic...8f8ee0ca31b1ce Thats about 25 quid in the old money |
|
Apr 18th, 2018, 22:07 | #22 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 16:15
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
That's the sort of thing, yeah. Came up about £27 on ebay here when i saw one earlier.
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
Apr 20th, 2018, 01:46 | #23 |
Member
Last Online: Oct 8th, 2022 20:34
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Basingstoke
|
Hi all. I had another look earlier. Seems I have no spark on any leads? And also the fuel pump priming issue. Could these be ecu related?
Also do ecus differ from auto to manual. I have two spare ecu's from same year but manual trans? Last edited by Lolvo 940; Apr 20th, 2018 at 01:49. |
Apr 20th, 2018, 04:28 | #24 |
Master Member
Last Online: Oct 8th, 2022 23:22
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Auckland
|
The ignition system is linked to the ECU. So is the fuel system.
Do you have ANY test equipment? |
Apr 20th, 2018, 08:24 | #25 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 16:15
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
Quote:
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
|
Apr 20th, 2018, 10:34 | #26 | |
Senior Member
Last Online: Oct 5th, 2022 10:52
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Preesall, Lancashire
|
Quote:
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to globetrotter For This Useful Post: |
Apr 20th, 2018, 15:11 | #27 | |
Senior Member
Last Online: Dec 11th, 2023 13:02
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Hants / Sussex
|
Quote:
Crank sensor is on top of the bellhousing at back of engine. And directly below the non return valve for the screen washers. When the valve leaks, water can drip onto the crank sensor, which may not be a good thing. Also, follow the wires from the sensor to the plug connector, see if the connections are ok. The sensor is fixed to the bellhousing with a 10mm bolt, so it might be worth trying another one to see if it cures the problem.
__________________
Recreate a visit to the homeopath by simply drinking some tap water and throwing £50 out of the window
|
|
Apr 20th, 2018, 22:30 | #28 |
Member
Last Online: Oct 8th, 2022 20:34
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Basingstoke
|
Hi all worth a try with crank sensor then?
The car was apparently running when laid up. Only have a voltmeter. So would a crank sensor mess with fuel and spark? How prone are ignition amplifiers to faulting? And would that cause this issue? Cheers for the help guys |
The Following User Says Thank You to Lolvo 940 For This Useful Post: |
Apr 20th, 2018, 23:18 | #29 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 16:15
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
Quote:
It would be worth a try with a crank sensor from the point of view that they have a tendency to go sooner or later and even if it isn't the fault now, you'll have fixed it in advance of anything else. However, it must be said (and i know if i don't say it, Ash will say it) that there isn't any substitute for proper, methodical diagnosis. You're a bit limited with only a voltmeter but there's still a fair bit you can do. The ignition amplifier modules (hidden on the inner wing behind the L/H headlamp usually) can fail but will usually give some sort of indication of impending doom. I think i'd start with checking all your fuses. Time to get the voltmeter out! When you look at a fuse, you can normally see the tops of the two contact pins in the upper face. You can see what i mean there, the silvery bits either side of the "10" on the upper face. Connect your voltmeter black/-ve probe to a good earth point. Switch the ignition on and check both of those silver contacts on the top face of the fuse and you should have power on each. Repeat for all fuses in the fusebox. You may find some aren't powered up such as certain lighting or other fuses but most should show a voltage with ignition on. Renew any that are suspect. After that, if you've found any blown fuses and replaced them, give it another try at starting. If it still won't, re-check any fuses you've renewed. See how you get on from there, may have to go down a couple of other fault finding routes but let's check the simple stuff first! As for "The car was apparently running when laid up." - i believe you, i'm just not sure i belive the person who told you that! Wouldn't be the first time someone has sold a non-runner and insisted it was running last time it was used.
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
|
Apr 21st, 2018, 00:53 | #30 | |
Junior Member
Last Online: Jun 5th, 2018 04:40
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: glen maye
|
Quote:
My 740 did something similar, was the fuel pump relay. Mines now bypassed with a standard 4 pin relay and car is so much better in every way, starts 1st compression cold or hot and doesnt randomnly take a break every so often! |
|
The Following User Says Thank You to manxdog For This Useful Post: |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|