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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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V40 1.9D won't rev freely and puffs blue smokeViews : 4366 Replies : 91Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 22nd, 2018, 22:06 | #41 |
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If yer can wait, get yersen that eml27 and an app such as the torque app, see whats going on with various things... (If your car is obd2 compliant, you are on the cusp for a diesel)
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Sep 22nd, 2018, 22:15 | #42 |
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I could do with getting one full stop. For the time being i can just take it into work and use our Snap-On machine and see what's what. But i do want a code reader. Can you just pick em up on eBay or something? The EML27 that is
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Sep 22nd, 2018, 22:21 | #43 |
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Sep 22nd, 2018, 22:46 | #44 | |
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Sep 23rd, 2018, 10:07 | #45 | |
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Lack of vacuum = boost solenoid, vacuum tank, little black box under said tank, or a split vacuum line. Blue smoke: clogged intake manifold/valve(s), blown valve stem seal, blown piston ring, leaking turbo oil seal. Lack of power: low fuel/air pressure, no vacuum getting to the turbo actuator (again, suspected Boost Solenoid). I could try unhooking that pipe you talked about, but seen as that was part of the piping system to the Intercooler that came off a bit back, it'll just blurt out smoke, sound like an asthmatic smoker, and still have no power. |
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Sep 23rd, 2018, 10:31 | #46 |
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But if you remove it and it runs much worse and you get loads of boost gushing out, you can reasonably eliminate the turbo, at least, know its not dead. Thats all that was about.
Regarding no vac to actuator, as I say, you arent likely to get a whole lot going off when free-revving the engine at rest. If you do have vnt, have you simply tried moving the actuator by hand? It should move freely (under strong spring tension) up and down (you dont need engine running) if it doesnt or only moves a few mm you've got a caked-up turbo which needs cleaning. Make sure it is a vnt actuator and not a pressure release aka wastegate. Further to that, seperately, investigate the vacuum. Keep each job seperate, dont think 'oh that system doesnt appear to be working' and try to solve the whole thing together, always do each bit alone, then progressively join them up as you go. |
Sep 23rd, 2018, 11:12 | #47 | |
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In your photo starting from the left is the solenoid for the shutoff valve on the intake. As I remember, it is open on one port and the other port is connected to the vacuum pipe for the shutoff valve. The middle one being the boost solenoid has one pipe connected just after the MAF, one to the vacuum line and one to the turbo actuator. There should be vacuum on one of these pipes at all times (the vac line). Also on my car when you start up, the turbo actuator will slowly rise up (as the vacuum builds) and it will bounce up and down when you rev it. The one on the right being the vacuum reserve tank has one end connected to the vacuum line and the other I think is connected to the pipe for the stop solenoid? If you are getting no vacuum to your boost control solenoid, turbo, or shutoff valve then this is where you need to start working. On my car I found that the vac line with the 90degree bends in was practically collapsed on the bends so replaced it. If you have proper brake servo operation then that suggests your vacuum pump is working so you are either losing it along the way or their is a leak in the system. You need to solve this first before you go any further. You simply must have vacuum to the boost solenoid! I'm not really sure how your engine management light is not coming on? I can only assume there is an electrical fault somewhere!
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Sep 23rd, 2018, 13:10 | #48 |
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This is why I said if all pipes are (seemingly) present in the right place, blank off the vacant spout as no vacuum will sustain whilst that is left open!
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Sep 23rd, 2018, 14:00 | #49 | |
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Would using a test light or something like that, on the connector pins for the boost solenoid and things like that, while the engine is running, work? Just as an indication as to if it's getting any power. I think I'm gonna take off all the vacuum lines again today and leak test them, make sure none of them have any hairline splits or fractures |
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Sep 23rd, 2018, 14:02 | #50 | |
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I'm going to try and basically leak test the vacuum lines, then I'll route them as you've told me what yours are like. |
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blue smoke, lack of power, oil burning, slow acceleration |
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