V40 1.9D won't rev freely and puffs blue smoke

[AndyV7o]

If yer can wait, get yersen that eml27 and an app such as the torque app, see whats going on with various things... (If your car is obd2 compliant, you are on the cusp for a diesel)

[Dirty Diesel]

Originally Posted by AndyV7o

If yer can wait, get yersen that eml27 and an app such as the torque app, see whats going on with various things... (If your car is obd2 compliant, you are on the cusp for a diesel)

I could do with getting one full stop. For the time being i can just take it into work and use our Snap-On machine and see what's what. But i do want a code reader. Can you just pick em up on eBay or something? The EML27 that is

[AndyV7o]

Yeah!
Sorry, its elm 327!
Here... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-Min...IAAOSwoupaq-3S

[Dirty Diesel]

Originally Posted by AndyV7o

Yeah!
Sorry, its elm 327!
Here... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-Min...IAAOSwoupaq-3S

Oh haha. Ordinarily I'd steer clear of them for being and looking cheap, but i guess if it works that's what matters!

[Dirty Diesel]

Originally Posted by AndyV7o

Could be fuel lift pump, ill try n watch yer vids in a bit, wife going for a soak so thatll give me 45mins to an hour...
Which makes me think, lift pump... Thats a possibility, if its not delivering enough fuel for the demand but enough to run albeit poorly... Yeah high pressure pump does the main donkey work, but im not sure if they pull it through once running or whether its dependant on lift pump feeding it sufficiently....

Would a lack of either fuel or air pressure account for the problem? I can see how either would account for the lack of power/inability to rev past 3K, but how would that explain the blue smoke and lack of vacuum? I can think of things that would cause some of the symptoms, but not all.

Lack of vacuum = boost solenoid, vacuum tank, little black box under said tank, or a split vacuum line.

Blue smoke: clogged intake manifold/valve(s), blown valve stem seal, blown piston ring, leaking turbo oil seal.

Lack of power: low fuel/air pressure, no vacuum getting to the turbo actuator (again, suspected Boost Solenoid).

I could try unhooking that pipe you talked about, but seen as that was part of the piping system to the Intercooler that came off a bit back, it'll just blurt out smoke, sound like an asthmatic smoker, and still have no power.

[AndyV7o]

But if you remove it and it runs much worse and you get loads of boost gushing out, you can reasonably eliminate the turbo, at least, know its not dead. Thats all that was about.
Regarding no vac to actuator, as I say, you arent likely to get a whole lot going off when free-revving the engine at rest. If you do have vnt, have you simply tried moving the actuator by hand? It should move freely (under strong spring tension) up and down (you dont need engine running) if it doesnt or only moves a few mm you've got a caked-up turbo which needs cleaning. Make sure it is a vnt actuator and not a pressure release aka wastegate. Further to that, seperately, investigate the vacuum. Keep each job seperate, dont think 'oh that system doesnt appear to be working' and try to solve the whole thing together, always do each bit alone, then progressively join them up as you go.

[bobthecabbage]

Originally Posted by Dirty Diesel

Okay, here goes:

Yes, the engine management light comes on when you turn on the ignition.

No, the engine management light doesn't come on when you unplug the MAF. It didn't come on for the EGR, MAP, or MAF as far as I recall. None of those three made any difference to the engines problem.

Yes, every other Electrical thing on the car that i can think of, works fine. Only one of the front speakers occasionally crackles.

And finally, no, the actuator arm does NOT move, not matter how much i rev the engine at all.

Here's the things: neither the actuator arm and shut off valve work at all now, both of which are connected to the vacuum lines. I've since stripped off all the little vacuum hoses, blown down then, and they're fine. But i have taken off three components which have air lines going to them, two of which have electrical connectors on them. Here they are:

http://imgur.com/gallery/2cYtUy9

Sorry about it being on Imgur, the photos i took were too big to upload directly to the forum site.

Do any of those three parts give off symptoms like I've been getting, if they're faulty?

There are quite a few posts here which I haven't read through so forgive me if the question has already been answered.

In your photo starting from the left is the solenoid for the shutoff valve on the intake. As I remember, it is open on one port and the other port is connected to the vacuum pipe for the shutoff valve.

The middle one being the boost solenoid has one pipe connected just after the MAF, one to the vacuum line and one to the turbo actuator. There should be vacuum on one of these pipes at all times (the vac line). Also on my car when you start up, the turbo actuator will slowly rise up (as the vacuum builds) and it will bounce up and down when you rev it.

The one on the right being the vacuum reserve tank has one end connected to the vacuum line and the other I think is connected to the pipe for the stop solenoid?

If you are getting no vacuum to your boost control solenoid, turbo, or shutoff valve then this is where you need to start working.

On my car I found that the vac line with the 90degree bends in was practically collapsed on the bends so replaced it.

If you have proper brake servo operation then that suggests your vacuum pump is working so you are either losing it along the way or their is a leak in the system.

You need to solve this first before you go any further. You simply must have vacuum to the boost solenoid!

I'm not really sure how your engine management light is not coming on? I can only assume there is an electrical fault somewhere!

[AndyV7o]

This is why I said if all pipes are (seemingly) present in the right place, blank off the vacant spout as no vacuum will sustain whilst that is left open!

[Dirty Diesel]

Originally Posted by AndyV7o

But if you remove it and it runs much worse and you get loads of boost gushing out, you can reasonably eliminate the turbo, at least, know its not dead. Thats all that was about.
Regarding no vac to actuator, as I say, you arent likely to get a whole lot going off when free-revving the engine at rest. If you do have vnt, have you simply tried moving the actuator by hand? It should move freely (under strong spring tension) up and down (you dont need engine running) if it doesnt or only moves a few mm you've got a caked-up turbo which needs cleaning. Make sure it is a vnt actuator and not a pressure release aka wastegate. Further to that, seperately, investigate the vacuum. Keep each job seperate, dont think 'oh that system doesnt appear to be working' and try to solve the whole thing together, always do each bit alone, then progressively join them up as you go.

Right okay, i get what you mean now. I'll try that. The actuator does move yes, i tried to move it and it does, albeit with a goodly pressure. I'm sure now that it isn't the turbo, but best to check anyway.

Would using a test light or something like that, on the connector pins for the boost solenoid and things like that, while the engine is running, work? Just as an indication as to if it's getting any power.

I think I'm gonna take off all the vacuum lines again today and leak test them, make sure none of them have any hairline splits or fractures

[Dirty Diesel]

Originally Posted by bobthecabbage

There are quite a few posts here which I haven't read through so forgive me if the question has already been answered.

In your photo starting from the left is the solenoid for the shutoff valve on the intake. As I remember, it is open on one port and the other port is connected to the vacuum pipe for the shutoff valve.

The middle one being the boost solenoid has one pipe connected just after the MAF, one to the vacuum line and one to the turbo actuator. There should be vacuum on one of these pipes at all times (the vac line). Also on my car when you start up, the turbo actuator will slowly rise up (as the vacuum builds) and it will bounce up and down when you rev it.

The one on the right being the vacuum reserve tank has one end connected to the vacuum line and the other I think is connected to the pipe for the stop solenoid?

If you are getting no vacuum to your boost control solenoid, turbo, or shutoff valve then this is where you need to start working.

On my car I found that the vac line with the 90degree bends in was practically collapsed on the bends so replaced it.

If you have proper brake servo operation then that suggests your vacuum pump is working so you are either losing it along the way or their is a leak in the system.

You need to solve this first before you go any further. You simply must have vacuum to the boost solenoid!

I'm not really sure how your engine management light is not coming on? I can only assume there is an electrical fault somewhere!

I honestly don't know about the EML, but I know for certain that it definitely doesn't light up. It does when you cycle the ignition, but after that, nothing.

I'm going to try and basically leak test the vacuum lines, then I'll route them as you've told me what yours are like.