Automatic trans fluid NEVER needs changing??

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Jack21

Hello everyone.

I was at the Volvo dealer last week having a revision done on my 2017 XC90 D5 AWD, with about 82,000 km on it. I asked them if they would change out the transmission fluid as well, and was met with a scoff and a laugh that the fluid in the transmission is "for the life of the car." Now color me stupid, but correct me please if I'm wrong in the belief that ALL mechanical devices in an ICE need their fluid/oil changed at regular intervals.

Any thoughts on this? My Volvo dealer simply will not change out the transmission fluid. As someone who's been driving for 45 years now, I've always been told this should be done at least every 50,000 miles (80,000Km) or so. Can someone please advise here?

Unfortunately you have come up against a poorly trained service " adviser "
This is only HIS or HER opinion, certainly not volvo's...

It is an additional action available on their service options , It is not a standard part of any service.
You might like to quote the service operation number to them 43708-2

In the service schedule it is listed to change the Automatic Gearbox fluid every 36000 miles if the car is used for towing or taxi work or other "Arduous conditions "

Their service manager would not be happy with them turning away a chance to legitimately earn some more revenue for his monthly target .

I would strongly urge you to go back to them and put them right ... and ask for a discount for your trouble !

[Chief inspector]

Be aware that this is quite £££ as its not a case of draining it and bunging a few litres of fresh in there.

The current generation of AT’s need to be warmed up and the fluid flushed and refilled whilst connected to the diagnostic system to get all the fluid out, and the new fluid where it needs to be and it isnt a 5 minute job.

And indeed, I would get it done.

[Dibble]

Originally Posted by john.wigley

I didn't know that 'colnet'. I remember - not so very long ago - when it was Volvo's proud boast that their cars had an average life of, if I remember correctly, 21.7 years. Several of mine have exceeded that figure by some margin, and my V70 is less than two years away from doing so.

Regards, John.

That was their advert in the 1970's John when one could expect about 10 years from a British car and one of the reasons I bought my first Amazon which lasted nearly 30 years.

[Quacker]

Originally Posted by Chief inspector

Be aware that this is quite £££ as its not a case of draining it and bunging a few litres of fresh in there.

The current generation of AT’s need to be warmed up and the fluid flushed and refilled whilst connected to the diagnostic system to get all the fluid out, and the new fluid where it needs to be and it isnt a 5 minute job.

And indeed, I would get it done.

Do they heck as like! The standard procedure is to dump and refill, then run to a certain temperature and check levels again, which changes about 60% of the fluid. If you like paying garage bills then you either dump a second time, which replaces a higher proportion of the fluid, or if you really like your wallet lightened, you get it flushed by bypassing the oil cooler and feeding fresh oil through one hose and dumping from the other. Totally unnecessary unless the unit has suffered a failure and swarf and friction material really needs to be flushed out.
Auto transmissions do have filters fitted but if modern ones are grossly contaminated and it needs changing, then the transmission either has failed or is at the point of needing an overhaul.

[Chief inspector]

Originally Posted by Quacker

Do they heck as like! The standard procedure is to dump and refill, then run to a certain temperature and check levels again, which changes about 60% of the fluid. If you like paying garage bills then you either dump a second time, which replaces a higher proportion of the fluid, or if you really like your wallet lightened, you get it flushed by bypassing the oil cooler and feeding fresh oil through one hose and dumping from the other. Totally unnecessary unless the unit has suffered a failure and swarf and friction material really needs to be flushed out.
Auto transmissions do have filters fitted but if modern ones are grossly contaminated and it needs changing, then the transmission either has failed or is at the point of needing an overhaul.

It needs done with the Manufacturers diagnostic machine:

1) You cant read and don't actually know which temperature to drop or check the level at.
2) It needs an adaption run with the new fluid.
3) The AWF8 has a duplex level check and drain plug, you remove the outer plug to dump it and replace it then remove the inner plug and if the temperature is right, and no fluid comes out, you can add more, you can attach a small hose to this and add more fluid, monitoring the temperature to get more of a clean.

You cant just drop 2 litres out a hot transmission and dump in 2 litres of fresh stuff and expect it to work, which was what I was getting at and you seem (as usual) to have taken exception to.

[Quacker]

Originally Posted by Chief inspector

It needs done with the Manufacturers diagnostic machine:

1) You cant read and don't actually know which temperature to drop or check the level at.
2) It needs an adaption run with the new fluid.
3) The AWF8 has a duplex level check and drain plug, you remove the outer plug to dump it and replace it then remove the inner plug and if the temperature is right, and no fluid comes out, you can add more, you can attach a small hose to this and add more fluid, monitoring the temperature to get more of a clean.

You cant just drop 2 litres out a hot transmission and dump in 2 litres of fresh stuff and expect it to work, which was what I was getting at and you seem (as usual) to have taken exception to.

You can make a meal of it or just do it properly. I know exactly how to change the fluid in these, and many other, transmissions.

The transmission temperature needs to be between 40 and 45C for manual checking of final level, after a change. This can be determined through any scan tool commonly available or by using a thermometer on the sump.

The fluid is drained by removing the sump plug, which is a two piece plug with a separate centre that consists of the filler/level pipe that protrudes a set distance up to the desired oil level. To refill the sump, the same amount of oil that was drained plus a bit, maybe an extra pint, is pumped up through a pipe with an adapter fitted to the centre hole of the plug. Run it through the gears while still jacked. Surplus allowed to drain when the adapter is removed. Then car run on road until desired temp is exceeded and returned to base. When the temp gets within range, the centre of the plug is again removed and surplus allowed to drain. Plug replaced and torque of outer and inner plug checked.

That’s all there is to it. Not the simplest but not rocket science either. No special tools required unless you count the scan tool [commonly available these days]. It is a procedure that has been used on Aisin Warner transmissions for many years, including Toyota/Lexus and Audi/VW applications of both six and eight speed, front and rear wheel drive variants.

[Chief inspector]

So youre draining it without removing the fill plug then refilling it from the bottom?

[Quacker]

Originally Posted by Chief inspector

So youre draining it without removing the fill plug then refilling it from the bottom?

To drain it you remove the complete plug. Removing a top fill plug is optional but faster. To refill it you can use a top fill plug, should you be able to access it, or fill through the centre plug of the drain plug as I described, it matters not which. Whichever is more convenient. There is a plug at the side which can be used to fill or vent air during refilling. I would fill by pumping through the centre of the drain plug personally, using a hand pump.

Only if checking the fluid level at a higher temperature than specified is a special tool kit required which is probably ridiculously expensive and complex, comprising an extended probe for the centre of the drain plug and a vacuum pump to attach to a high fill plug to stop oil escaping while the probe is fitted below. All completely unnecessary.

[gaby]

See the last page of the 2016 maintenance schedule (remark "F")

[gaby]

Being able to delete a reply would be nice...