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Battery conditioner for XC90

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Old Jan 1st, 2021, 13:41   #11
XCF
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Can anyone advise how they have hard wired the CTEK connector to their XC90.
The positive post in the engine bay is too wider a diameter for the CTEK cable to fit under the captive nut.

Is there another positive charging point I can use to connect the CTEK cable to ?

Thanks
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Old Jan 2nd, 2021, 10:53   #12
SwissXC90
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Hi.

Options
1. 13p Trailer wiring plug (this has permanent 12V on it on pin 9). See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Traile...tors_in_Europe
2. On the battery in the cargo area (may be inconvenient under the cargo area floor)
3. Power outlet in cargo area (I do this sometimes, but it is fused and monitored, so not a true direct connection to the battery)
4. Engine Bay positive battery post using an appropriate sized lug. If your lug is too small, cut it off and fit a bigger one. Remember that the positive post is permanently live and essentially has no fuse, so you must take precautions with extra insulation on the permanent live wiring, and ensuring any exposed connections are covered when not in use. The last thing you want is chaffing through insulation, causing burnt wires and potential for fire.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2021, 12:00   #13
S60D5-185
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Last Online: Apr 5th, 2024 16:23
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Location: 2007 Volvo XC90 D5 Geartronic. South of Hadrians Wall.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwissXC90 View Post
Hi.

Options
1. 13p Trailer wiring plug (this has permanent 12V on it on pin 9). See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Traile...tors_in_Europe
2. On the battery in the cargo area (may be inconvenient under the cargo area floor)
3. Power outlet in cargo area (I do this sometimes, but it is fused and monitored, so not a true direct connection to the battery)
4. Engine Bay positive battery post using an appropriate sized lug. If your lug is too small, cut it off and fit a bigger one. Remember that the positive post is permanently live and essentially has no fuse, so you must take precautions with extra insulation on the permanent live wiring, and ensuring any exposed connections are covered when not in use. The last thing you want is chaffing through insulation, causing burnt wires and potential for fire.

I had the same issue when fitting the fly lead from my optimate 4.

Option 4 is the way that I went. I used the large yellow sheathed crimp eyelets that are the correct size. Ebay have them. I soldered mine in place as well although probably not needed.

5 minutes total and the job was done.
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