V70 1999 fuel tank repair/replace

[SteveSarre]

Hi Derek

Another thought.

I don't have one in front of me, but I seem to remember that the semi-rigid hoses that push fit onto the top of the fuel pump, will go on either way.

If that happened, then your fuel pump may be pumping into what should be the return pipe, possibly with reduced pressure at the injectors.

I suppose one way to test would be to remove the core from the schrader valve at the end of the injector rail, put some fuel hose on that, lead the hose to a catchment bottle and then turn the ignition on. The pump should kick in and fill the bottle. Or put a pressure gauge on it if you have one.

Obviously you don't want to let petrol spray around because of the fire risk.

When you turn the ignition on, can you hear the pump kick in for a few seconds? Someone who listens near the spare tyre well might be able to hear it more easily.

HTH
Steve

[Derek UK]

A sort of an update. Not had time to do much. Positives, it will start from cold and settle to lumpy tick over. Trying to increase the revs with the pedlal stalls it. Disconnecting the MAF makes the tick over even lumpier, and I didn't leave it running like that for long. Tried again this morning and it started OK but the revs are jumping around 1000. Not a tick over. Indicator of the problem? ETS light is on. Dodgy ETM has been mentioned. At this point I will get some throttle body cleaner and give it a scrub, Gasket x 2 ordered. I will also give the MAF a squirt. Unless there are better recommendations I will get the 2 cans of Liqui Moly from Amazon. I am willing to fit a new contactless module. It looks as if this is what's needed.
Am I right that with the ignition on the throttle butterfly should rotate smoothly back and forth with the throttle pedal? I hoping to be able to check this with a camera. From what I can make out, the fitted module has a pair of tracks that can get worn or damaged causing intermittant signals.
BUT, what I really need is someone local with VIDA who is willing to come and give it a scan. I live in Chatham so anyone in the Medway towns or reasonably close please let me know if you can help. ASt85? You are listed as Walderslade and that's where I am too. I think I might have a suitable laptop and could buy my own set up but would rather not for what might be a one off scan.

Steve. I think the pump is working OK. One pipe at the pump should have a yellow bar on it and I think my garage is competent enough to do that change over. Plugs are at about 19k. Pump is in a plastic cage and far enough away from a drill for it not to be a problem.

As an aside. I'm parked next to a 5 series BMW and I was talking to the owner who was working on it, about my problem. Showed him my damaged tank. He is a car mechanic, Polish, and he has been waiting for parts for his cooling system. He was working in the boot and then got a sheet of cardboard to do something underneath. When he emerged he told me that his tank was also holed and he had lost about half a tank. He was calm but not happy. It does rather make me sick to my stomach thinking that the scum could come back and do it all over again. My alarm is on. It may not have been before as my remote lock button isn't very positive and I wasn't being very observant previously. Frankly I'm not sure what factors can make the alarm go off, but that's another subject.

[Dippydog]

When mine took to stalling when dropping to tickover or at the very best having a lumpy idle cleaning the throttle body with carb cleaner an old toothbrush and lint free rag cured it for a short while[couple of months or so]before it returned with a vengeanceOrdered a sacer unit off e-bay and fitted that-simple enough even for me to do!-to convert to electronic and it's been fine ever since.
For cleaning the MAF I'd use only a dedicated cleaner.

[Derek UK]

It's been a while but results of my work haven't been positive. Being locked down I haven't needed the car and the weather hasn't been in my favour being that I have no garage. I purchased the contactless conversion ETM. Took the throttle body off over Christmas. The scratches and bruises on my lower arms and wrists are virtually healed now! Yes I had to take off the bracket to release the module cable. Anyone doing it perhaps consider removing the fans. Depending on the position of the servo pipe clip it will draw blood as will the small plug on the fan shroud. Throat was very clean with nothing more than some discoloration on the engine side. That cleaned off easily. Spent some periods of time digging out the goop in the module and soldered everything in. It's an odd sort of job but in retrospect pretty easy.
Put the module back in yesterday but the battery was flat so couldn't try a start. I have a new air filter and that was going in but the one in place looks as if was put in yesterday so I left it. Charged battery put back today and the car started but with a very lumpy idle as if it was rich. A similar idle to when you have a manual choke on a bit too much i.e. rich mixture. I held it at just under 2k revs to get the temp up to normal. Car would rev fairly smoothly and come back to the lumpy idle without stalling which in itself is a bit better than it was. No lights showing on the dash not even the ETM so that is looking good. I'm not used to the pedal feel with fly by wire, frankly don't like it much but I will get used to it. Engine seems to lag behind the pedal when blipping the throttle but it's probably not so noticeable when driving. Note that I've driven it less than 100 miles since I got it. So, next step, removed MAF and gave it a clean with the proper Liqui-Moly spray. Left it for 15 minutes next to a heater for the cleaner to evaporate. Refitted but no significant change except I felt that the idle was bit lumpier. Also the engine symbol light came on and has stayed on. That might correct itself. maybe. As before, disconnecting the MAF just made for a bad idle and a big reluctance to rev. So, where am I? The way the roads are from where I park with hills etc I'm reluctant to go for a drive and see what happens. It was bad enough getting the car home when the problem first happened. Question. Does the system have to relearn itself? I really do have to get a Vida scan. I had no kind offers to my previous request but perhaps I could ask again. I'm in Chatham, Medway towns.
Suggestions welcome. It could be something embarrassingly simple and I'd be more than happy to have a red face!

[Derek UK]

Update and hopefully the finale.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6ksV9hLSlc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzixpHC-y-g

First video has the engine doing the lumpy hunting idle. No text with that one. I should have done that but it was to send to someone for info. The second was done yesterday. A small saga written with that one explaining how I think things are now. It does also clarify some of what I wrote in the last post.
Having bought a Vida set-up from Simon it made the diagnosis easier even though I might have got the end result after a lot of messing about. I need to raise my trust in the car first before I settle to thinking that all is well. With the chance of being able to get trips out longer than 2 miles to a supermarket coming soon that should hopefully be good for both me and the car. As I said in the final sentence on the 2nd YT video, I might need to change the rad very soon. Expect to get another thread on the best place to get one, good rad/good price. The range seems to be between £70 and £220 for what looks in the pictures to be the same rad! 1999 auto. PFV = £121.49 With VAT? + postage.
Thanks for all of the comments. All very useful.

Please look at my Wants Ad.

[Derek UK]

I will add that anyone with possible ETM problems look at the P2 forum where there is a seperate section for this under the Wants ads. Lots of info there which of course covers the late P1's that can have the same issues.