740 d24t vibration damper removal

John Davies · Mar 29th, 2006, 00:05

Hi
I am about to replace the belts on my D24t, and reshim the tappets.

I have the necessary clock gauge, tappet depression tool (got from Germany for a bargain price) etc. but am stuck for a tool to hold the bottom pulley - 5187 in the Volvo manual.

Given the massive torque on the main bolt I do not fancy doing something clever with fan belts. It is an automatic so I can't remove the bolt with the car in gear (a horrible idea anyway!), and I do not fancy dropping the sump to put a block of wood against the crank. Anyone got such a tool, know where I can get one or got the dimensions of one so I can make something up? I cannot be the only person to have met this problem!

Is there a method of removal I haven't thought of?

Thanks

John D

Peter Milnes · Mar 29th, 2006, 01:21

If you join the club (unless you are already a member) you will find that there is a very helpful chap who has a lot of the special tools for loan to club members. You will also need the wrench (number 5188) to do the job properly and may need to remove the coolant radiator to give sufficient clearance. The crankshaft nose bolt has a torque figure of 255lbsft on it so removal is rather difficult without the two special tools. I am about to do the same with my 945 with D24TIC with the assistance of the two tools. You will also need the pump locking pin from the Sykes-Pickavant diesel setting tool set which also has the shims for setting the camshaft rear end. Do you have the D24 Green book?

All the best, Peter.

RichardB · Mar 30th, 2006, 00:32

To remove the bottom pulley bolt is easy. My friend who is a mechanic uses this method all the time.

Get a socket on the pulley bold and stick a breaker bar on it, stick the breaker bar under the drivers side chassis rail now flick the ignition key so the starter turns just for a fraction of a second. Now remove the bar and socket and undo the bolt by hand.

this works by allowing the starter motor to undo the bolt for you, the bar under the rail stops the crank pully bold from turning.

Cheers,

Richard

John Davies · Mar 30th, 2006, 01:16

Thanks both

Have all the tools I need - I think. Have the green book also. I will try the 'inertia method' - I see no reason why it shouldn't work!

Failing this, Peter, after you with the correct tools!

Regards

John Davies

Peter Milnes · Apr 2nd, 2006, 01:34

Richard B I assume your friend is talking about the petrol engined versions as the torque is only of the order of 75lbsft., some 180 lbsft less than the diesel engines figure. This is within the starter motors capabilities but would seriously strain the starter motor on a diesel despite it's 2.5kW power figure compared to the 1.5 kW petrol starter motor. At least you are trying to be helpful and no-one will knock you for that.

All the best, Peter.

RichardB · Apr 3rd, 2006, 09:05

I was unsure how much torque the starter motors output. I was just passing the advice given to me from a friend of mine who is a mechanic. This was originally intended for my Nissan 200SX but also had to use it on my 740 as I couldnt get that one undone either, they are very tight! I am assuming it cant stress the motors too much as I only had to flick the key for a fraction of a second and then it was loose enough to undo with fingers! It shouldnt be an issue for me now anyway, I bought a compressor and an air rachet

Cheers,

Richard

John Davies · May 2nd, 2006, 00:17

Well, I can tell you what happens when you put a socket on the centre nut and spin the starter on a D24T engine.

Nothing. Absolutely nothing.

The starter sighs, says 'What on earth do you expect of me?' clicks, and all the lights go out.

So I went onto plan B, which was to build my own removal tool, which worked a treat, though it took a couple of hours to make. I will be writing this up for Jack Cluer in due course.

Thanks Peter and Richard for your comments.

John D

mycoleptodiscus · Jul 5th, 2006, 11:11

FYI, the woodruff key on that pulley is NOT designed to take a load. The pulley is held in place purely by the huge amount of torque applied when tightening the crank shaft pulley bolt. If you don't tighten that bolt properly, you could lose your motor as this is an interference engine. The valves can smash into th epistons... The tool you refer to is still available from Baum tool (see my BLOG) Before I was aware of this, I used a HUGE chain wrench to hold the pulley still. It worked.
http://volvoturbodiesel.blogspot.com/

John Davies · Jul 6th, 2006, 01:53

You are a cheerful chap aren't you? Seriously, thanks for the info. I will have to find out how much the Baum tool is, though in fact my own works very well (and cost nothing)
!

Regards

John Davies

Jul 6th, 2006, 22:02

I had the bottom pulley off a 740 B200 about 3 hours ago .........

I put it in 5th Yanked on the handbrake, & used a 3' bar to undo it, after the bolt was out the wheel came off with a lil hand jiggling

Mar 29th, 2006, 00:05	#1
John Davies VOC Member Last Online: Sep 26th, 2015 22:56 Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Walsall	740 d24t vibration damper removal Hi I am about to replace the belts on my D24t, and reshim the tappets. I have the necessary clock gauge, tappet depression tool (got from Germany for a bargain price) etc. but am stuck for a tool to hold the bottom pulley - 5187 in the Volvo manual. Given the massive torque on the main bolt I do not fancy doing something clever with fan belts. It is an automatic so I can't remove the bolt with the car in gear (a horrible idea anyway!), and I do not fancy dropping the sump to put a block of wood against the crank. Anyone got such a tool, know where I can get one or got the dimensions of one so I can make something up? I cannot be the only person to have met this problem! Is there a method of removal I haven't thought of? Thanks John D

May 2nd, 2006, 00:17	#7
John Davies VOC Member Last Online: Sep 26th, 2015 22:56 Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Walsall	Well, I can tell you what happens when you put a socket on the centre nut and spin the starter on a D24T engine. Nothing. Absolutely nothing. The starter sighs, says 'What on earth do you expect of me?' clicks, and all the lights go out. So I went onto plan B, which was to build my own removal tool, which worked a treat, though it took a couple of hours to make. I will be writing this up for Jack Cluer in due course. Thanks Peter and Richard for your comments. John D __________________ Volvo 760 GLE turbodiesel estate 1989 (auto). Ford Mondeo 2001 mk. 3 Ghia X petrol estate. Austin A60 Cambridge 1966 (auto) . Austin A60 Cambridge 1967 (manual) undergoing restoration.

Jul 5th, 2006, 11:11	#8
mycoleptodiscus New Member Last Online: Sep 24th, 2007 05:07 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: St. Paul	Tools FYI, the woodruff key on that pulley is NOT designed to take a load. The pulley is held in place purely by the huge amount of torque applied when tightening the crank shaft pulley bolt. If you don't tighten that bolt properly, you could lose your motor as this is an interference engine. The valves can smash into th epistons... The tool you refer to is still available from Baum tool (see my BLOG) Before I was aware of this, I used a HUGE chain wrench to hold the pulley still. It worked. http://volvoturbodiesel.blogspot.com/

Jul 6th, 2006, 01:53	#9
John Davies VOC Member Last Online: Sep 26th, 2015 22:56 Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Walsall	You are a cheerful chap aren't you? Seriously, thanks for the info. I will have to find out how much the Baum tool is, though in fact my own works very well (and cost nothing) ! Regards John Davies __________________ Volvo 760 GLE turbodiesel estate 1989 (auto). Ford Mondeo 2001 mk. 3 Ghia X petrol estate. Austin A60 Cambridge 1966 (auto) . Austin A60 Cambridge 1967 (manual) undergoing restoration.

Mar 29th, 2006, 01:21	#2
Peter Milnes Premier Member Last Online: Apr 10th, 2014 00:01 Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tonyrefail	If you join the club (unless you are already a member) you will find that there is a very helpful chap who has a lot of the special tools for loan to club members. You will also need the wrench (number 5188) to do the job properly and may need to remove the coolant radiator to give sufficient clearance. The crankshaft nose bolt has a torque figure of 255lbsft on it so removal is rather difficult without the two special tools. I am about to do the same with my 945 with D24TIC with the assistance of the two tools. You will also need the pump locking pin from the Sykes-Pickavant diesel setting tool set which also has the shims for setting the camshaft rear end. Do you have the D24 Green book? All the best, Peter.

Mar 30th, 2006, 00:32	#3
RichardB Junior Member Last Online: Jun 1st, 2017 22:05 Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Loughborough	To remove the bottom pulley bolt is easy. My friend who is a mechanic uses this method all the time. Get a socket on the pulley bold and stick a breaker bar on it, stick the breaker bar under the drivers side chassis rail now flick the ignition key so the starter turns just for a fraction of a second. Now remove the bar and socket and undo the bolt by hand. this works by allowing the starter motor to undo the bolt for you, the bar under the rail stops the crank pully bold from turning. Cheers, Richard

Mar 30th, 2006, 01:16	#4
John Davies VOC Member Last Online: Sep 26th, 2015 22:56 Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Walsall	Thanks both Have all the tools I need - I think. Have the green book also. I will try the 'inertia method' - I see no reason why it shouldn't work! Failing this, Peter, after you with the correct tools! Regards John Davies

Apr 2nd, 2006, 01:34	#5
Peter Milnes Premier Member Last Online: Apr 10th, 2014 00:01 Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tonyrefail	Richard B I assume your friend is talking about the petrol engined versions as the torque is only of the order of 75lbsft., some 180 lbsft less than the diesel engines figure. This is within the starter motors capabilities but would seriously strain the starter motor on a diesel despite it's 2.5kW power figure compared to the 1.5 kW petrol starter motor. At least you are trying to be helpful and no-one will knock you for that. All the best, Peter.

Apr 3rd, 2006, 09:05	#6
RichardB Junior Member Last Online: Jun 1st, 2017 22:05 Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Loughborough	I was unsure how much torque the starter motors output. I was just passing the advice given to me from a friend of mine who is a mechanic. This was originally intended for my Nissan 200SX but also had to use it on my 740 as I couldnt get that one undone either, they are very tight! I am assuming it cant stress the motors too much as I only had to flick the key for a fraction of a second and then it was loose enough to undo with fingers! It shouldnt be an issue for me now anyway, I bought a compressor and an air rachet Cheers, Richard

Jul 6th, 2006, 22:02	#10
J..M Guest Location:	I had the bottom pulley off a 740 B200 about 3 hours ago ......... I put it in 5th Yanked on the handbrake, & used a 3' bar to undo it, after the bolt was out the wheel came off with a lil hand jiggling

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