960 24v. Im Bored Sunday. How to clean your Flametrap

[740Estate]

Firstly, I apologise if this has been done before. Having just got the 960 I decided it might be a good idea to check a few things out on her. Not that i doubt the competence of the previous owner, but peace of mind comes cheap when you check things.

Ive already cleaned the drainhoses for the front windscreen out, now moving into the engine area proper. I'd seen Flametraps for sale on Ebay for 10 quid plus postage, but WHY! Theyre a fully cleanable item!! Just takes 10 minutes of your time to do. It has cost me nothing to do as I already had the cheap supplies needed to do my flametrap service.

This is how I cleaned my Flametrap.

Tools needed:

1. Screwdriver to release the jubilee clips on the pipes the flametrap is connected to.
2. Can of cleaning spray. I used a cheap motorcycle degreaser I already had. anything that shifts oil can be used really. I also had Tesco's cheap orange cleaner to hand.
3. An old spoke from a racing bike. These are readily available at nil cost.. Tips, Skips and backyards being the vendors.
4. An old brake cable from a bike again, easily obtainable.
5. An old mess tin in order to soak the bits in and catch the crud
6. A flatpoint screwdriver, medium wide blade.

First Part. Location, Location, Location!

In the photos attached you will see
1. the basic location (centre of shot)
2. the closer view
3. the basic tools, oh plus the snips I used to obtain my 'bits of cycles tools!


...To be continued!!

[740Estate]

So after finding the Flametrap, I removed it carefully.

I unclipped the Jubilee clips and removed the Trap from the pipes, carefully noting where they go.
I kept a good hold of the smaller vacuum pipe while I put the flametrap down, then followed the piping to find where it went.
Note! These small pipes clog up easily, so this one needs cleaning too.Dont put it off.

It went down under the manifold towards the rear of the engine. See fat finger pointing to the general direction...


To be continued...

[740Estate]

Now with the flametrap in my (now grubby) mitts, It was off to the back garden to carry on the task!

Please NOTE!

Old oils and carbons from cars are Carciogenic. They can cause cancer. It is advisable to wear gloves for working with these kind of things.


(I didnt but I was born in the early 70's and survived climbing trees too. Please wear protective gear.)

To be continued...

[740Estate]

So now I have the flametrap!

Observe the location of the elongated slots. See the smal round peg? That is holding the two halves together. careful application of a turning force will move the peg towards the flat side of those holes (see where I mean?) and then you can carefully prise the two halves apart. There is a small lip you can use to afford LIGHT leverage with the screwdriver to help these parts come apart. see the photos, hopefully they will show the amount of lip you have to play with..

First two show the peg in it's first position, second once turned (look at the hole in relation to the pipes..) and the third shows the lip. you can make out the seal ring. note there isnt a lot of room, but there is some!


To be continued..

[740Estate]

With the flametrap apart, you can see the 'filter element' inside the part im holding. This will remove with careful handling.

You will then be left with the flametrap in parts as shown in the second photo


To be continued....

[740Estate]

To clean the body of the flametrap I sprayed it with the degreaser, agitated it with *shock horror* my finger. I used the spoke to carefully scrape the awkward parts. I left them to soak.

The filter element i will come onto in a minute. Stick it in that cleaner too to soak. dont prod it with the spoke.

With them soaking I cleaned the pipe that I had also removed (remember that?)

Firstly, I gently poked the spoke down the end of the pipe. AHA! It's blocked! (told ya). I sprayed a bit of cleaner down the end (watch yer eyes) and agitated it with the spoke to start with. Note in the pics, after a while the spoke went in more, until finally I got it past the blockage. Gentle prodding and gentle turning of the spoke and lots of cleaner is my tip.

To be continued...

[740Estate]

Once I had cleared the blockage, I slowly shoved (technical word for passed) the brake cable down the pipe. I added cleaner as I went. It passed all the way through. I then push-pulled it to scrub the inside of the pipe clean, and sprayed more cleaner through it to remove the gunge.



Pic shows the pipe with the cable through it. I got my son to hold the pipe while i held both ends of the cable and wiggled it (tech term again!)


To be continued...

[740Estate]

Right, now the pipe was clear, I turned my attention to the honeycomb looking bit, the filter element as I keep calling it.

Hold it, look at it. carefully remove any gunge you can with ease, then using the brake cable, pass it carefully from the dished side through the holes. It fits brilliantly. I did this on every hole (using cleaner too) and found it dragged the glazed gunk out of the holes a treat. I washed it off with a spray of the cleaner and left it to dry in it's now clean and clear state.



To be continued...

[740Estate]

Now with all parts cleaned, I washed it all off carefully in soapy water, dried it all to remove moisture and then reassembled the parts in reverse order to the strip.

I replaced the components on the car ensuring they went back in the correct place, made sure they were secured properly and fired the car up.

All's well and a quick job done that helps protect the car from expensive seal failure!


Im still bored though, but at least my Sunday has been used well! Ive saved myself some money and proved that particular component of the car to now be serviceable again.

Job's a fish. Im off for a pint!

[He3r0]

its awesome man, it make me want to clean that thing too.. (maby next weekend) but you have to work on the quality of your pictures definitely.
thank you