C30 General : - Bulb and full beam issues C30

oneilldom · Oct 15th, 2018, 10:02

Morning All,

Issue number 1.
I've had my C30 for around three years and burned through approximately 15nr H7 bulbs. Granted around 12 of them were very cheap bulbs but I've had a set of nightbreakers in that have lasted no more than 5 months. Is this just something I have to live with?

Issue number 2
When I pull the left stalk back to put the full beams on, the beams no longer stay on. They only stay on while the stalk is held back. Any thoughts on this? I thought maybe a fuse had gone but couldn't see anything in the little fuse map.

Issue number 3
Can anyone tell me what size the stock (see below - unsure on alloy name) 5 spoke alloys AND tyres are on the C30? I'm looking to buy some winter tyres with alloys
https://i.atcdn.co.uk/imgser-uk/imgs...024&height=768

coljol · Oct 15th, 2018, 10:50

The issue with the high beam is easily rectified, when the light switch (to the right hand side of the steering wheel) is in position "0" the daytime running lights all illuminate when the car is running however when you pull the stalk back to put on main beam it only allows you to flash and will switch off when the arm is released.
To get the main beam to stay illuminated when the stalk is pulled the light switch needs to be rotated to dipped beam position, you can also just flash main beam by a light pull on the stalk. In this position your daytime running lights still switch off when you turn the car off.
Hope this makes sense

oneilldom · Oct 15th, 2018, 11:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by coljol

The issue with the high beam is easily rectified, when the light switch (to the right hand side of the steering wheel) is in position "0" the daytime running lights all illuminate when the car is running however when you pull the stalk back to put on main beam it only allows you to flash and will switch off when the arm is released.
To get the main beam to stay illuminated when the stalk is pulled the light switch needs to be rotated to dipped beam position, you can also just flash main beam by a light pull on the stalk. In this position your daytime running lights still switch off when you turn the car off.
Hope this makes sense

That's good news. I must have knocked it over to the 0 position. I usually leave it on. Thanks!

Bendolfc · Oct 15th, 2018, 11:03

Nightbreakers aren't designed for a long life so not a big surprise they don't last long.

15 does sound excessive though, try a decent long life bulb and see how you get on.

Welton · Oct 15th, 2018, 11:11

Bulb life is all based upon running hours, the long-life ones Volvo fit have tough filaments but don't burn as bright...

I've tried all the usual Nightbreakers etc which usually last me about 10-12 months (5000 miles) but more recently I've been running TwentyTwenty H7's which seem to last much better with an uprated light output etc.

Something you could check is how secure the bulb is within its enclosure, if it can vibrate too much or is loose it will shake the filament and shorten its life.

Petey80 · Oct 15th, 2018, 11:42

1 - Volvo's own H7 bulbs are fairly decent. As said Osram bulbs etc. are mainly for brightness than general every day always on use. You can fit them, but I'd then start running side lights only to help them last longer.

2 - already answered.

3 - Those wheels I believe are Serapis 17" wheels. Tyres would generally be 205/50 R17

LizardOfBodom · Oct 15th, 2018, 12:30

1) Because our cars use PWM in headlights ("fluctuating voltage" colloquially speaking) a lot of bulbs dont like it. Cheap bulbs can burn because of that as they are cheap, Osrams NB on another hand may also live shortly as its fillament is very thin to achieve higher light output. Generally Volvo is selling H7 "long life" bulbs for that exact reason - those have thicker fillaments and are designed to withstand long periods of time working with PWM, but their light output is substantially worse.
Either this, or you have issue with voltage - ever tried to measure it on actual bulb?

3) if you have 205/50/17 you may also look for 225/45/17 alternative- almost identical in size, a few mm thicker (so even better side rim protection) and much better price. Using them now myself after switch from 205/50, I saved over 100e on full set.

Welton · Oct 15th, 2018, 16:17

Be careful changing the 'size' of tyres, I've been through this and for insurance purposes you can only fit tyre sizes approved by the Factory i.e. any of the sizes listed behind the fuel filler flap.

Any tyres outside of these sizes may be classed as a modification.

Oct 15th, 2018, 10:02	#1
oneilldom Distinctly Average Member Last Online: Jun 12th, 2019 09:23 Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Sunderland	Bulb and full beam issues C30 Morning All, Issue number 1. I've had my C30 for around three years and burned through approximately 15nr H7 bulbs. Granted around 12 of them were very cheap bulbs but I've had a set of nightbreakers in that have lasted no more than 5 months. Is this just something I have to live with? Issue number 2 When I pull the left stalk back to put the full beams on, the beams no longer stay on. They only stay on while the stalk is held back. Any thoughts on this? I thought maybe a fuse had gone but couldn't see anything in the little fuse map. Issue number 3 Can anyone tell me what size the stock (see below - unsure on alloy name) 5 spoke alloys AND tyres are on the C30? I'm looking to buy some winter tyres with alloys https://i.atcdn.co.uk/imgser-uk/imgs...024&height=768 __________________ 2009 C30 2.0D R-design

Oct 15th, 2018, 11:11	#5
Welton Premier Member Last Online: Sep 14th, 2021 17:03 Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Market Harborough	Bulb life is all based upon running hours, the long-life ones Volvo fit have tough filaments but don't burn as bright... I've tried all the usual Nightbreakers etc which usually last me about 10-12 months (5000 miles) but more recently I've been running TwentyTwenty H7's which seem to last much better with an uprated light output etc. Something you could check is how secure the bulb is within its enclosure, if it can vibrate too much or is loose it will shake the filament and shorten its life. __________________ 2005 S40 T5 SE - Manual. Bilstein B4's. (For Sale) 2010 Citroen C4 1.6 HDi (bizarre Gearbox model). 2010 Renault Twingo (refreshingly simple) 2018 Infiniti Q30 1.6T Business Executive (what's this button do?)

Oct 15th, 2018, 11:42	#6
Petey80 Premier Member Last Online: Apr 14th, 2024 21:03 Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: North East, Teesside	1 - Volvo's own H7 bulbs are fairly decent. As said Osram bulbs etc. are mainly for brightness than general every day always on use. You can fit them, but I'd then start running side lights only to help them last longer. 2 - already answered. 3 - Those wheels I believe are Serapis 17" wheels. Tyres would generally be 205/50 R17 __________________ Thread V40 T2 R-Design - https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...56#post2901756 Thread V50 D2 R-Design - https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=264890 - CRASHED

Oct 15th, 2018, 12:30	#7
LizardOfBodom WowIcanwriteAnythingHere! Last Online: Mar 26th, 2024 16:05 Join Date: May 2016 Location: Dublin/Meath	1) Because our cars use PWM in headlights ("fluctuating voltage" colloquially speaking) a lot of bulbs dont like it. Cheap bulbs can burn because of that as they are cheap, Osrams NB on another hand may also live shortly as its fillament is very thin to achieve higher light output. Generally Volvo is selling H7 "long life" bulbs for that exact reason - those have thicker fillaments and are designed to withstand long periods of time working with PWM, but their light output is substantially worse. Either this, or you have issue with voltage - ever tried to measure it on actual bulb? 3) if you have 205/50/17 you may also look for 225/45/17 alternative- almost identical in size, a few mm thicker (so even better side rim protection) and much better price. Using them now myself after switch from 205/50, I saved over 100e on full set. __________________ 2005 V50 T5AWD M66, Stage1 Hilton tune E-focus torque mount, E46 bi-xenon retrofit v2 , (also available in PDF form), DTSC fully-off mod, Brembo discs+ATE ceramic pads

Oct 15th, 2018, 16:17	#8
Welton Premier Member Last Online: Sep 14th, 2021 17:03 Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Market Harborough	Be careful changing the 'size' of tyres, I've been through this and for insurance purposes you can only fit tyre sizes approved by the Factory i.e. any of the sizes listed behind the fuel filler flap. Any tyres outside of these sizes may be classed as a modification. __________________ 2005 S40 T5 SE - Manual. Bilstein B4's. (For Sale) 2010 Citroen C4 1.6 HDi (bizarre Gearbox model). 2010 Renault Twingo (refreshingly simple) 2018 Infiniti Q30 1.6T Business Executive (what's this button do?)

Oct 15th, 2018, 10:50	#2
coljol Junior Member Last Online: Feb 15th, 2024 08:08 Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Leven	The issue with the high beam is easily rectified, when the light switch (to the right hand side of the steering wheel) is in position "0" the daytime running lights all illuminate when the car is running however when you pull the stalk back to put on main beam it only allows you to flash and will switch off when the arm is released. To get the main beam to stay illuminated when the stalk is pulled the light switch needs to be rotated to dipped beam position, you can also just flash main beam by a light pull on the stalk. In this position your daytime running lights still switch off when you turn the car off. Hope this makes sense

Oct 15th, 2018, 11:03	#4
Bendolfc Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 14:20 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Liverpool	Nightbreakers aren't designed for a long life so not a big surprise they don't last long. 15 does sound excessive though, try a decent long life bulb and see how you get on.

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