940 lpt 1993 immobiliser fault?

[Forrest]

I think the later (Guard 2) immobiliser uses a chip in the key rather than anything to do with the remote but 1993 seems a bit early for that system unless it was retrofitted by a previous owner in which case all bets are off!

[tessie]

Forrest - apologies - senior moment - it's a 1996 car. Sorry all if this has a significant bearing on the nature of the responses that have been kindly posted.

[TonyS9]

It might do but not for the original fault. The guard 2 has 2 immobilisers, the same starter immobiliser as the guard 1 and an independent electronic fuel ECU authoristion via an RFID chip in the key. It cannot be hot wired without replacing the ECU.

The ignition key immob it will not affect the lights or anything but the engine. If the ECU is not authorised the engine will start for a few seconds then stop. It has been reported that some keys don't authorise well or maybe something wrong with the aerial around the key slot.

You say the system goes dead. If all the lights are going out this had nothing to do with any immobiliser function I am aware of.

Turning the ignition on/off lots of times can put the alarm into a programming mode, perhaps you have stumbled on this. I think the alarm should NOT deactivate and allow the car to start but I haven't tried this on guard 2. Maybe the RFID immobiliser talks to the alarm and says hey shut up I got a good key here, must be the owner. But not a connection I was aware of.

[tessie]

Thanks Tony S9
Checked the car again yesterday and she's still starting up normally, thank goodness! Obviously pleased that things seem to have righted themselves but would have liked to have understood why. It occurred to me that recently I have been in the habit of leaving the key in the ignition when the car has been sitting in the garage which I didn't do previously and wondered whether this might have been a factor in any way?

[tessie]

Hi folks
As it turns out i couldn't bring myself to move this car on, and she's been sitting in my garage for the last three years or so, while various other time consuming life stuff has been going on. I've decided to have another go this summer at getting her back on the road. I think that the main things to do to at least get through the mot are new rear shocks and abs not working and a couple, maybe more, fresh tyres, but obviously also needs a service and also the timing belt and front cam seal need done. In tank pump also seems to be very noisey. No doubt there will be other stuff as well.
Anyways, thought I'd do the rear shocks first- never done this before but looked straight forward enough, and indeed so for the nearside which was the first one. Then proceed to the offside which was also going fine until I couldn't get the bolt on the lower mounting out - the nut's off and the shocker body moves freely but the bolt won't budge, turns freely enough but won't come out.Think it is stuck in the sleeve which runs through the bottom mount of the shocker. Any ideas? I'm thinking maybe cutting the bolt if all else fails - anyone know offhand its size and where a replacement could be gotten?
Cheers

[tessie]

Meant to say that I had never really properly solved the intermittent start problem, but recently bought a new battery for the car on the basis that the one that was in it had definitely gone off during the last winter spell, and i have to say that so far have had no problems with starting since. Although I didn't really have any real reason to suspect the battery for this issue (it seemed to perform and test up as normal), looks like that may have been the cause. So those who were kind enough to reply to my original topic suggesting a duff battery or similar were probably right enough!

[Rversteeg]

Had the same problem, lower bolts rusted stuck in the bushing of the shock absorber. The bushing is bonded in rubber, so any attempt to slam it out with a hammer failed, as the rubber absorbed my hittings. I have Koni shock absorbers which can be re-adjusted if worn, so cutting them was no option. Finally asked my garage to undo the bolts and they managed by hitting the bolts with a pneumatic chisel.

[tessie]

Had the same problem, lower bolts rusted stuck in the bushing of the shock absorber. The bushing is bonded in rubber, so any attempt to slam it out with a hammer failed, as the rubber absorbed my hittings. I have Koni shock absorbers which can be re-adjusted if worn, so cutting them was no option. Finally asked my garage to undo the bolts and they managed by hitting the bolts with a pneumatic chisel.

Hmm... that's interesting. In my case the rubber bonding has disintegrated during the removal process, but none-the-less the bolt seems well stuck despite trying to bash the nut end through with a hammer (didn't want to hit it too hard with the bare hammer and damage the bolt end, and a wood block seems to dull the effect). On the plus side though I think that I can get in to cut the bolt off, but was trying to avoid that since I don't have a spare to hand, altho looks like either cutting or severe bashing is the answer both of which will trash the bolt in any event.
Cheers

[undertaker]

Can anyone help please? I have a 960 with guard 1 alarm system. I don't have the remote and have not been using the alarm for some time but the car battery died. On replacing the battery the alarm is in alarm condition with car immobilised and indicators flashing. Both led's are on in the guard control in the windscreen. Is it possible to disconnect this alarm or bypass it without the remote? Thanks in advance. Bill

[TonyS9]

First try rebooting, disconnect the battery and reconnect it more positively (so no arching).

If that doesn't work you need to bypass the starter immobiliser. So just unplug the alarm module under the steering wheel (its bundled in the loom), and push a wire into the 2 starter motor connections. I can't remember what pins that is, 50a is one of them I think.