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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Voltage stabilizerViews : 2693 Replies : 17Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 25th, 2018, 14:11 | #11 |
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Location: Alberta
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Just a note on the oil temp gauge, which you may know already. The oil temp gauge needle, doesn't raise too often unless ambient temps are higher and the car has had a good run. At least thats my experience.
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Jul 25th, 2018, 20:22 | #12 | |
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Location: Inverness
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Quote:
Although there is some corrosion on the casing of the original (which I am happy to send to you) its bracket was quite clean so I thought that an earthing fault was unlikely. In any event I had decided by that time that the dials were coming out! Incidentally I did have to make a minor mod to the replacement purchased from Simon. The bracket was a bit too big and I had to cut part of it off so that it would fit in the small space available with the "top" arrow pointing skywards - though I have no idea how important that is for correct operation. PM me your address Ron and I will send the old one to you. Postage on me (in the interests of research!). |
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Jul 25th, 2018, 20:38 | #13 | |
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Quote:
But maybe I'll have to take it up the Bealach na Ba to Applecross on a hot day just to make sure! |
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Aug 22nd, 2018, 19:36 | #14 |
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Location: Connecticut, USA
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Forum;
I have just received the Graham's old VStab for a post-Morten examination...it may take a while, but watch this space for results. Cheers |
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Sep 12th, 2018, 17:42 | #15 |
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I recall when a forum member (possibly, but not necessarily from this forum(?), so this is crossposted to other fora) pointed out that there were different versions/voltages of VStab...if that individual sees this, or if anyone has info or can shed light on what years of production or vehicle models these were associated with, I ask them to chime in here. As far as I know, the 10V (long-term average) units were fitted to injected 1800s, and probably 140s, but I invite other info if accompanied by parts catalog references or other substantiation. TIA! |
Sep 17th, 2018, 14:14 | #16 |
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Results are in on the tests of Gordon's failed V-Stab...but I won't spoil it by giving away the root cause here, I will say that the V-Stab was not found to be defective!...I'll let those interested read all the gory details in this SW-EM Tech Article: https://www.sw-em.com/voltage_stabilizer.htm ...the question if V-Stabs of voltages other than 10V (Average) were produced has been also been answered...yes, these were manufactured, but for use on Ford vehicles of the era. These 5V (Ave.) output V-Stabs are not suitable for use in Volvos (of any year). Cheers |
Sep 23rd, 2022, 23:45 | #17 |
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Same Part, similar problem
Hello everyone,
I had been searching old posts for help with my 1800ES, when I found this thread. Hope its all right to jump in; you're doing a great job of helping out. My recently acquired '72 ES has had wiring 'modifications' and started acting up soon after I got it. The oil and water temperature, fuel and tachometer give low reading or none at all. The charge light comes on sometimes. The alternator and voltage regulators were bench tested and are fine. It was easier to pull the alternator than the gauges. I found the voltage stabilizer stuffed, loose, into the space above the tachometer. It is after market, has no markings other than 2 pins with "I", 2 pins with "B", and -GND. The case was grounded to the post securing the tach in the dash with a 6" wire, red of course. Now the help me parts: Is it possible to simply test this stabilizer; run 12v in and see in 10v come out? I know that grounding the stabilizer can be critical; it was on the tachometer post for mounting into the dash. Not at the base of the post with a secure nut, at the top above the standoff-like mount. There were two other wires on the same post. The doubles black wire appears to be a grounding circuit for the gauges that can be found on some wiring diagrams, the other, a white wire, appears to be the ground for the turn indicator flasher or hazard flasher unit ( I'll nail all that down and check pin connections to make sure they're right. ). Is it possible the grounding location picked for the stabilizer is so poor that it doesn't function properly? Should I find a better ground for the VS and screw the case directly to the sheet metal? Should I find a better VS? I've read some of the discussions about NCZPs; if I mount the VS to the grounding surface I guess I clean off the paint, and use Naolox or one of the others. Between the loose wire hanging down, cut wires, and extra wires, this is gonna be fun. Thanks, David Stecher |
Sep 24th, 2022, 13:06 | #18 |
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David;
Welcome to this forum! Some guys will start a new thread, so answers will be new (with typically the same old info), or a combination of new, and directing back to old threads like this...some, like you have already searched and read existing thread, then hung your questions onto it...it goes either way...but that is why it's important to have a meaningful thread or posting title...so that the info searchable and findable in the future... To your questions... Location of VStab is not critical...it could be located in the trunk/boot (with unnecessarily long wires!), so up by the instrument panel is clearly logical...connection to chassis on it "can be critical"...no, it IS critical. You can locate it anywhere you like, but in order to function as expected, ALL its connections, especially that to chassis must be solid. In order to make it more accessible, and simple to check, with less contortions, pain and suffering necessary, you may want to relocate it to near the Fuseblock, and I'd add a tiny LED on the output with which to check its function at a glance. Assuring all connections to it are clean shiny metal, and snug, is the target (for the entire car really!), and anointing the chassis connection with ACZP is a great corrosion/future problem preventative measure (and mentioning it means you've studied the info which I have previously written...so compliments to you on doing your research!). Original VStab technology was a bimetallic element which cycled at about a one cycle/sec rate. Electronic replacements are available, these employ a solid state regulator component which puts out 10V continuously. Both styles and technologies are acceptable, and depending on which type is fitted you will measure either 12-0-12 etc (with a long-term average of 10V). or 10V continuously on the Blue wire when Ign is ON...anything else is wrong and needs to be investigated and sorted! Edit: VStabs are not all alike! 5.1V output VStabs used on VDO gauges (of 140s) are NOT suitable for the Smiths gauges of the 1800s! Smiths gauges require the 10V VStabs!...so when replacing, be certain you procure the correct replacement! Other than being on the same power Fuse 4 (ALL fuses should be clean and shiny at their contact area and also be treated with ACZP... Source: http://www.sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm ...Tach does not use VStab output. VStab only supplies Coolant and Oil Temp and Fuel Gauges. Tip: Trust the published wiring diagram color codes for factory wiring! I think that covers the important questions... Good Hunting from Connecticut! Reference: http://www.sw-em.com/voltage_stabilizer.htm Last edited by Ron Kwas; Sep 24th, 2022 at 15:45. |
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