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Battery not charging. Suspect alternator fault.

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Old Jul 1st, 2014, 12:49   #21
rogereld
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Car is back home from the dealer. They have supplied me with a volvo part number which they would use for replacement (36050262 140A) but they have not told me the manufacturers part number which is what most people are asking me for. Fairly sure the original is a Bosch, but the engine is too hot to do any dismantling and I can't see any numbers on it where it is.

Can anyone help me identify the bosch part number I need for the correct replacement before I dismantle the car. I can probably drive short journeys if I put the charger on as soon as I get home so I don't want to dismantle the engine until I have obtained the new alternator.

A second option is to get a local auto electrical specialist to fit a new voltage regulator, but he also wants to know the bosch part number to see if he has the correct part in stock.

Either way I need to know what part number I should be using.
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Old Jul 1st, 2014, 13:06   #22
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Would it be possible to take the car to a reputable independent garage, have them remove the alternator and send to a local alternator specialist for repair, then for them to re-fit for you ?

I used a similar procedure, admittedly for a Ford fuel pump, where the specialist replaced the pump seals, it proved to be relatively inexpensive.

In my case it was a same day job, you may be without your car for a couple of days max' ?

Of course if it is not a "reputable independent garage" it may get complicated !
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Old Jul 1st, 2014, 23:03   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacman67 View Post
I have a virtually new bosch regulator, if you need one.
Like I say, I've got one. Have you made sure the small spade connector on the front of the alternator is tight and free of corrosion. you need to check the ac volts content of the charge voltage of your alternator to make sure it's not more than just a regulator. Hence why I have a nearly new one, as I fitted it and there was more wrong with the alternator, and I ended up exchanging it. They are a pig to get out on some petrol models btw, and while your there I'd budget for a new belt.
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Old Jul 2nd, 2014, 18:44   #24
BobS
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Hi,


Had to change my alternator last week.
See my thread;

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=208361

I had no problems with battery charging just had strange noises at idle. But when I removed it I found the pulley was free wheeling in both directions. So I was lucky.

I bought a secondhand alternator of flebay at £60. But this was a 3 month old unit with the stickers still on it. They seem to be around £35 - £70 depending on condition.

Is there any unusual noises coming from the belt area at idle? If so then the pulley could be faulty.

If you can't get to a garage then there are good mobile auto electricians who will come to your house and will be able to check if the alternator is charging and may be able to supply and fit a reconditioned alternator far cheaper than a main dealer.

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Old Jul 6th, 2014, 13:51   #25
rogereld
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Quick update.

After watching a very helpful you tube video of someone removing an alternator from a V70 2.4T petrol engine ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Gc7jJM7tIc ) I decided to do it myself.

Tricky bits were removal of top radiator tube without spilling too much coolant fluid, and the most difficult was actually getting the alternator out once it was detached. It seemed to be just too big to fit past the top of the engine whichever way round I tried it but somehow it squeezed through in the end.

I have fitted a second hand alternator, cost £30 +vat from a local vehicle breaker. Same as the original removed. Bosch 0124525014, Volvo part number 8622786. I was originally intending to fit a new voltage regulator to the original alternator, but after removal I was not too sure how good the clutch pulley was, and it was in the end quicker to drive to a local breaker on Saturday morning and get the whole job done.

Voltage is now reading around 14.1 volts at tick over, rises very slightly to 14.2 at 2-3000 rpm. Not much different with a/c fan, lights, and radio on. Around 12.5 with engine off. Drops to 10-11v when the starter motor is engaged. The 14.2v is slightly more than I was expecting, but I hope it is OK.
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Old Jul 7th, 2014, 16:39   #26
rogereld
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Second lot of voltage readings done 24 hours later, with the engine up to temperature after 40 minutes driving with aircon, DRL's and radio on. 13.7v at tick over, 13.8v at 2500rpm, 12.5v with engine off. These are what I was expecting. Not sure why my original readings after installation yesterday were higher, possibly the alternator and voltage regulator had not warmed up?
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Old Jul 7th, 2014, 17:23   #27
XC70Bob
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I would not worry to much about your voltages any thing between 13.8v and 14.2v is fine.
you are only talking about 0.4v which could be the difference between having head lights or not.
could also be that your battery was charged a bit more when you took the first readings
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