S40 V40: 2002 V40 1.9TD - refusing to start

[bobthecabbage]

I'm sure those aren't the full explanation of the codes.

Maybe someone with VADIS will look them up for you?

I don't know why the car will start when you push it although someone wiser or more experienced might. With an older diesel it would point to a glow plug fault but if the temperature is above 0C there then glow plugs should not be required. Low compression also causes hard starting.
EGR stuck open may also prevent starting.

I'm afraid we still don't have enough detail for a diagnosis.

If your garage's scanner is any good it should be able to show you the cranking rpm and maybe graph it as well. If the signal is there and stable (smooth graph, no spikes) then you know the sensor is okay.

To be honest in this situation if there was a code for one of these sensors, the garage would probably replace them both.

If the sensor is open circuit I wouldn't think the car would run at all. They do tend to fail gradually so it is possible that with a push start the rpm signal is high enough to trigger the ECU but cranking with the starter isn't. I would expect idle to be a bit erratic though and the engine to misfire and occasionally stall.

Another thing I just thought of that could be explained by push starting could be low fuel rail pressure. That is if the fuel pump is failing or the system is losing pressure somewhere, the starter motor may not generate enough fuel pressure to start the engine.

As you can see I'm clutching at straws here.

I should think that a competent garage should be able to diagnose the car in minutes just by reading the live data for the RPM and the fuel rail pressure as well as MAF and MAP.

If you want to avoid going back to the garage again then I would suggest trying to replace the crankshaft pulse sensor and checking/replacing the engine earth cable.

[skyship007]

BobC is right about making 100% sure you know the meaning of the fault code. Don't forget it can be an electrical fault associated with the sensor or system listed.

Glow plug fault codes are almost normal for an older diesel. IF THE SYSTEM FAILS IT WILL STILL START, unless you happen to live in the far North and live in an Igloo.
If it's cold and several plugs are duff (Resistance reading of several 1000 Ohms, rather than one or two), it can result in a slightly rough start for the first few seconds only and some associated black smoke.

The crank sensor fault has been mentioned a number of times by various members, although mostly for phase 1 petrol jobs. That code needs to be checked out in terms of the full meaning.

The MAF sensor code is interesting, as it might need cleaning with a top quality contact spray of cleaner (Halfrauds and CRC do a cheap one), in addition to a visual check and new air filter.
A FAILED MAF ONLY RESULTS IN LIMP HOME MODE, not a failure to start.

Do not forget that the listed codes may not be the cause of the start fail, as the ECU does not check for things like air in the fuel, blocked fuel filter, petrol use, split HG or most serious of all, a spud up the tail pipe!

[TorbjornJ]

As well as the camshaft position sensor there is also a crank pulse sensor. This may be what the code was referring to as they often have similar codes and unless the garage accurately identified your vehicle the code could refer to either sensor.

Woohoo! The car runs again!
It was the crankshaft position sensor that was the fault here. Once i replaced that one (with the old camshaft sensor mounted), the car fired up on first try

Again, thanks everyone for helping out and suggesting where to start

[druid]

this is good news

[TorbjornJ]

Here we go again.

Went for a ride yesterday, 1 hour to my parents - no problem - 1 hour back - no problem, mostly highway with 110km/t (~70mp/h).

Then I went on another ride for 2 hour, halfway into the ride I experience the same problems as before: all engine power goes away, the car dies for 1-2 seconds. When this occur I see at least ABS lamp and engine light, possible the service lamp as well.

After that 1-2 sec everything is working ok again.

I found out that my main fuse (120A) had been blown, so to be able to start (yes, I know that this is not recommended.. but it's what you have to do) i had to short it out with a steel screw.
So what could possibly make the main fuse blow, and not any of the smaller fuses behind it.

Does anyone have a electrical wire diagram of my car? Was wondering how the alternator was wired, if it was alternator -> starter -> battery (without any fuse) or of this goes through the main fuse.



PS: This time I am able to start my car, as long as I short the fuse. But I have to find out WHY it has blown.

[bobthecabbage]

I'm sure someone has had a similar problem.

I think a faulty alternator could cause the problem you describe.

There is also an issue with the wiring loom under the radiator degrading and causing lots of different problems. I don't know whether this issue affect all phases or just the earlier cars.

[gatos]

See my first post here: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=139546 with links of very detailed diagrams for our cars

[hasitha]

Originally Posted by TorbjornJ

Woohoo! The car runs again!
It was the crankshaft position sensor that was the fault here. Once i replaced that one (with the old camshaft sensor mounted), the car fired up on first try

Again, thanks everyone for helping out and suggesting where to start

Hello Torbjorn and everyone.

Previously everyone in the forum haa helped with my volo s40 1.9td 2001 which was sluggish and had no power, but later it was solved and it had plenty power.

Howere last week the since last week the car is refusing to start it cranks and wont start and i also had the similar symptoms /experience which Torbjorn had up to this stage and after scanning with a generic scanner i too got the same codes as Torbjorns
Preheating - Permanent fault
Camsfhat sensor - Permanent fault

And also the rpm needle in the dashboard doesn't move even a little. I also sprayed "easy start" for which it the engine turn over fast but its only looks like it fired up due to the "easy start" but even when its cranking at a higher speed the Rpm needle doesn't move at all.

I think my crankshaft position sensor might be faulty too. It produces a resistances of 720ohms , can any one or Torbjorns please be kind enough to let me know the resistances of the cranckshaft sensor of a starting car. I think you can get a reading while its still screwed in but just unpluging the socket. It would mean soo much and i could go ahead and order it.
As it would be hard to find the crankshaft position sensor where i live. I have to order it from the UK.

It would been soo much

I also tested the camshaft sensor with the multimeter and it seems fine.

Would appreciate if anyone here can help.
And Torbjorns after replacing crankshaft position sensor and after fixing the fuse poblem is the car working fine?

Many thanks

[V40T4R]

Bad injectors also give hard time to start the engine

[hasitha]

Originally Posted by V40T4R

Bad injectors also give hard time to start the engine

Yes you are correct but i took out the 4 injectors and checked them. They hold pressure .

My thoughts are still with the crankshaft sensor. If i could get the ohms reading of a running car then i could cross it out.

By the way fuel filter is okay and the hand pump besides it is hard .