Is it possible to replace rear wheel studs easily?

[clarkey1984]

Hi all, the T4 has had a dodgy stud on the driver's side rear ever since I've had it, I've managed to dress the end up a couple of times in the past using a file and a hacksaw blade, but I've mangled 3 wheel nuts today, it's just not having it at all this time, ive managed to find an old nissan m12x1.25 nut which I got to go on and tighten (probably because of the slightly shallower thread) but it's far from ideal.

I'll probably just run a die down it on monday which I imagine will be good enough, but I wouldn't mind changing it out if its as simple as it is on some older cars, usually you just take the caliper and disk off and then smack it out with a big hammer, then use a nut and washers to pull the new one in, but I also know that on some cars you have to take the whole wheel bearing assembly to bits to change one, which I have absolutely no interest in doing lol, has anyone done this before?

Many thanks in advance

[Darlo 1]

Only ever done one on the front but i'm pretty sure the rears are the same, disc off and hammer the hell out of it.

[04S40Ontario]

After market bearing hubs are not a bad price and in the end probably easier to just change it vs a stud.

[clarkey1984]

Thanks for the info people

Looking at things and thinking about it, I've never been fully happy with the wheels catching the inner arch on full lock, and this, as it turns out, is because the mitsubishi galant wheels it has on are et50, I am already running 5mm spacers, but that's still not enough, so I was thinking of buying a set of 10mm hubcentric spacers and changing all the studs to suit, does anyone have any detailed info of the spline sizes, I've found a Volvo oem part number of 30681553 but that's all the information I've managed to find so far.

Cheers

[canis]

Sorry I can't help with your query, but I was only wondering what those wheels were the other day and meant to ask. They look really nice.

[clarkey1984]

They look great... From a distance, I blasted the rims at work and then etch primed, silver top coat, glitter coat, lacquer, glitter coat again, then lacquer, then a final coat of lacquer, that final coat buggered it and everything cracked, I'll do them again at some point, I'm quite tempted to do them white this time.

[canis]

You mentioned rubbing the inner arches; For what it's worth, I noticed my T4 had been rubbing at least a little bit. Obviously not noticeably, or i'dve noticed it (obviously! LOL!), but while poking around in a wheel arch I spotted it. And that was on volvo wheels.

[clarkey1984]

A lot of it is probably down to my tyre choice, I didn't want 205/45 as it would sit too low (I already struggle getting into the drive) 215/45 would be too wide as these are only 7j rims, and 195/50/17 doesn't appear to be a size so I settled on 205/50, provided I can suss a way of breaking the outer bead on the borderline rainsports 2 of them currently wear I'll do them tomorrow morning, work have asked me if I would mind testing up a jetting unit for an hour or so in the morning before it goes out on hire on Monday morning, so I may as well kill two birds with one stone so to speak.

[clarkey1984]

Actually no I tell a lie, it was the split rims on the orange one I blasted before, not these, I only know because today I blasted the 2 with borderline tyres, I really wish I hadn't, because now I can tell that these have been grit blasted in the past, check that mottling out, properly profiled, that's heavy grade media such as garnet that's done that, that'll take some coats of high build to sort out, wish I'd have left them alone now.

[canis]

Oh wait, I remember now, you had some wonderful wheels from somewhere which you painted in some type of candy flake. I seem to remember it didn't go so well, if I remember right. They were on the orange one, and I think it was still red at that point.

Man, I've been here too long lol